Ford 2000 hi/low selector safety switch

[Bobby R]

I'm having a problem with the safety switch on my `72 Ford 2000. Yesterday I assumed the switch was stuck because when I finally put the hi/low selector shift in neutral position the tractor cranked up. Today, I found that neutral position is not working either. I had to move the shifter to numerous positions before the starter would finally engage. Is there a way to by pass this safety switch without going into the transmission? It took me about 5 minutes to find a position so the tractor would start. I just want to do away with the safety switch function if I can. Any suggestions?


"If you've got a car, you've got a ride. If you've got a truck, you've got a better ride. If you've got a tractor, you've got it all."

 

[whodat526]

yes there should be two wires coming out the top of the trans. There should be a conector on them on just un plug them from the wires hanging out the dash and them plug the two wires hanging out the dash together

 

[Bobby R]

I looked all over the transmission, top, bottom, and sides and don't see any wires coming from it at all. It stands to reason that if there's safety switch in there, there would be some wired to it, but sure haven't found any yet. Could it be something besides a safety switch keeping the starter from engaging. Don't sound like it would be since I can move the hi/low lever and finally find a position that it will crank on. I'm bum-fuzzled.

 

[whodat526]

it should be on the top right hand corner of the shift top but the only other thing i could thing of is the soleniod not grounded good are the starter not grounded go one of the two

 

[Bobby R]

Okay, I'll check those for good grounding.
Thanks

 

[MMagis]

Note: this is where it is on my 3000, I'm assuming your 2000 is similar.

If you take the "dash panels" off, (they would be in front of your knees), down near the lower left you should see two wires, both with in line connectors. Unplug them and then plug the two coming from the transmission together. I hope I worded that right.
Every once in a while mine acts up, but I just turn the key and hold it while moveing the gear shift back and forth. It usually only take a couple seconds for it to go.
Another note, typically I don't like safety switches, but I tried bypassing that one for a short while, and learned real quick that it's important to have. I never realized how often I turned the key without the clutch engaged until then. Make sure you're ready to go when you turn the key.

 

[Bobby R]

Yeah, you worded it okay, but the problem I'm having is that I haven't found any wires at all coming from the transmission.


"If you've got a car, you've got a ride. If you've got a truck, you've got a better ride. If you've got a tractor, you've got it all."

 

[wedge40]

I've had this problem with my 4000 for years. There is a cover that will partially cover the transmission, it is under this cover that you will find the two wires leading to a boot that goes into the transmission. On mine there were external connectors about 6" above the boot. I just pulled these off and connected them together. The nice thing is Ford made the two connectors male and female so they could be easily connected to by pass the safety switch.
After putting two switches in my tractor, I've had them connected for years.
I always go through the ritual of wiggling the sifter before even inserting the key to start it.

Wedge

 

[MMagis]

Yeah, you worded it okay, but the problem I'm having is that I haven't found any wires at all coming from the transmission.

Have you removed those sheet metal panels? The wires are behind the left panel, almost in front of your foot. If I was home I'd take a picture, but I'm not.

 

[Bobby R]

My tractor doesn't have a sheet metal panel in front of where my left foot sets, nor do I see any wires in that vicinity. Also it doesn't have a cover over part of the transmission and no rubber boot. I'm going to try and upload a couple of pictures of that part of my tractor so maybe you can see what I've got, or maybe you can show me where you're talking about as a location for these things. Thanks for all you attempts to help and maybe together, we'll figure something out.

 

[Soundguy]

follow the wire front the solenoid back up.. i bet you fid some wires nastilly twisted together or but connected together.. check that connection.

soundguy

 

[whodat526]

yes because somebody has cut the wires at the shifttop that goes to the neutral saftey and sealed off the whole but look up under the calen fy were the keyswitch is at and see if there is two wires conected to each other or twisted together

 

[Bobby R]

Okay, sounds like you're on to something here. It's dark now, but I'll be sure and check it first thing in the morning. Thanks guys! You're all a great help!

 

[wedge40]

I took a few photos of what mine looks like. I appears that someone placed some sort of plug where your safety switch wires should be exiting the transmission. It's amazing what a little spray paint can hide.

 

[Bobby R]

Yeah, I see what you're talking about from the pictures you sent. Mine has a rubber plug where apparently the wires once exited the transmission. I looked up under the crowling. There are no extra wires around the key switch but on the other side, there are several. I'll just have to try and pull them all down and see what I can find. If the safety switch has previously been by-passed, then the problem must be the two wires they tied together and not making good contact. What I don't understand is why it will eventually crank when I move the hi/low shifter to a certain spot. I'm still flabber gasted! Thanks to all of you for your time and effort. At least I 've got something solid to look at now whereas I didn't have a clue before. THANKS!

 

[Soundguy]

i bet it's just bad contact in the wires or switch.

trace the wire from the solenoid up.. that's where you will / should find the splice, then on to the switch start contact. bypass if needed switch to solenoid to check.

soundguy

 

[Bobby R]

You were right Soundguy. I found where the two wires were connected together and it was a good tight plug (nothing wrong). So I started the process of elimination, beginning at the battery, trying to crank it after each connection I checked. When I got to the starter side of the solenoid, it seemed tight, but with some force I did make it move. When I turned the key to crank, sparks shot out from the connection. I got my tools and took the cable off and cleaned everything up good and put it back on good and tight and it fired up, first try. I killed it and tried it several more times, each time cranking it. I'm satisfied now that it was just a bad connection on the solenoid. Again I want to say a big THANK YOU to all who had a part and/or suggestion to my problem. I really appreciate and hope I can somehow return the favor in the future.


"If you've got a car, you've got a ride. If you've got a truck, you've got a better ride. If you've got a tractor, you've got it all."

 

[Soundguy]

i've got nearly 20 ford tractors. it was a pretty safe bet what your problem was after hearing the symptoms ,



BTDT... got the oil stained shop floors and dirty red shop rags and greasy tshirt

soundguy

 

[KRB]

Same happened on my 3000 ford bypassed the safety switch and put on slush to start button below the key. But that also allows it to start in gear so it's not the best way fix it.