question about using a disc
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MMagis
Veteran Member
Sounds like you need a longer top link. To get mine to work the best, I set the top link so the rear disks are no more than 8" above the ground when I pick it up completely. It looks funny, but that's what works.
Western
Super Member
There will always be more force on the front disc in the direction of travel, try moving in reverse for about a foot and you usually will see the back disc dig in more.
As MMagis said, you may need a longer top link. Also you may double check the 2 bottom pins and see if there is some adjustment there. My tractor has telescoping lift arms, so bringing them in towards the tractor gives my top link more "play".
The front usually will do 60% or more of the digging in my experience, The one I have now is a 3 pnt, I had a 16' tandem with hydraulic lift wheels that was pulled by the pull bar. Did a much better job, but the front always had a little more "bite".
As MMagis said, you may need a longer top link. Also you may double check the 2 bottom pins and see if there is some adjustment there. My tractor has telescoping lift arms, so bringing them in towards the tractor gives my top link more "play".
The front usually will do 60% or more of the digging in my experience, The one I have now is a 3 pnt, I had a 16' tandem with hydraulic lift wheels that was pulled by the pull bar. Did a much better job, but the front always had a little more "bite".
Pooh_Bear
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2005
- Messages
- 763
- Tractor
- Early 1949 Ford 8N
On my 8N I shorten the top link to use the disk.
I like the back disks to be about two to three
inches higher than the front. This puts all the
weight on the front disks and makes it dig
in really good. And the back disks cut up
what was just plowed up.
I have a real heavy 3 point disk.
Pooh Bear
I like the back disks to be about two to three
inches higher than the front. This puts all the
weight on the front disks and makes it dig
in really good. And the back disks cut up
what was just plowed up.
I have a real heavy 3 point disk.
Pooh Bear
atgreene
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2007
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- 855
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- Sebago, Maine
- Tractor
- 2005 TB135 Excavator with Thumb, Quick Attach System, Ripper tooth, 3' Hydrauic Tilt Clean-up Bucket, Skeleton Bucket, 1986 Kubota 4150 with Loader and Quick Attach with Woods Forks, JD B, 1963 IH 504
The front disk should do all the cutting, the rear should do much less of the work. If you are forcing the rear gang down you are out of adjustment and are not tilling the soil the way the harrow is designed to. That, and you will break disks.
Briar Hill Brittanys
Gold Member
If your ground is like ours around here, it's mighty dry. The disc probably won't cut much or very deep. I plowed 2 days after 1.5" rain, disced the next day. Cut like butter, the wads and clods practically exploded. This was on sod that was sprayed with generic Round-up 2 weeks prior. Very little dust was kicked up. My disc is 1/2 of a JD KBA that's been channeled to about 6'. I can adjust the angles by pivoting one side of the 3 point to 3 different positions. Normally set so it's level front to back. When it's lifted, the front end is pretty light. Steering is done by brakes, mostly. You can see how good it worked the ground in the second picture. I was waiting for some rain to plow, and work up this plot. It's going to be another market patch for next year.
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MMagis
Veteran Member
That simply is not true. If the front gangs are digging in and the rear are barely touching the dirt, it's not doing much good. A disk has to be set up to work properly whether it makes sense to you or not. I'm baffeled how you think having the rear gangs in the dirt will break disks? That's why they're there.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
All but the really good 3-point disc's will tend to raise up in the rear as they try to rotate around the lower link pins.....It takes weight to hold 'em down. And there's the problem....Far too many "modern" 3-point disc's are just too light. The GOOD ones have enough built in weight to operate balanced front and rear. A well designed mounted disc will do an outstanding job. (provided the operator knows what he's doing.... 
)
A disc shares one characteristic with a plow....To do their job CORRECTLY, they need to run fairly level (front to rear)
Front gangs do the initial cut, rear gangs SHOULD cut too. Rear gangs are (should be) set a little less aggressive. The rear does the leveling. Having the FRONT gang set too aggressive will compound the problem where the disc tries to rotate around lower pins. (put top link in compression) Try setting front gang a notch LESS aggressive and see what becomes of that. (Provided yours has the adjustment capability to do so....)
) A disc shares one characteristic with a plow....To do their job CORRECTLY, they need to run fairly level (front to rear)
Front gangs do the initial cut, rear gangs SHOULD cut too. Rear gangs are (should be) set a little less aggressive. The rear does the leveling. Having the FRONT gang set too aggressive will compound the problem where the disc tries to rotate around lower pins. (put top link in compression) Try setting front gang a notch LESS aggressive and see what becomes of that. (Provided yours has the adjustment capability to do so....)
FredH
Platinum Member
I Agree with FWJ about the newer disk's needing weight . My KK 6.5' angle frame now has 5 100# weights on it . 4 on the front and 1 on the back with a piece of 4" x 10" "I" beam . Mine also cuts the Best when it is level front to back , that is , when it is just lifted barely above ground level . If I lift it all the way up , then obviously it is not level .
Disk type , Notched or smooth ? I won't go down that road , likely start another peeing match .
As Briar wrote , Moisture content in soil and soil type plays a huge roll in how the smaller disk's work .
Question : When You drop the disk all the way down and pull for say 50' , can you adjust or disconnect the top link or is it still tight . If no more adjustment can be made and it is still tight , then I would agree that you need a longer top link .
Fred H.
Disk type , Notched or smooth ? I won't go down that road , likely start another peeing match .
As Briar wrote , Moisture content in soil and soil type plays a huge roll in how the smaller disk's work .
Question : When You drop the disk all the way down and pull for say 50' , can you adjust or disconnect the top link or is it still tight . If no more adjustment can be made and it is still tight , then I would agree that you need a longer top link .
Fred H.
