Preventing tractor back flip

[Don87]

There's been a lot more armchair engineering then fact on this thread, but your drawbar provides the hook up that is least likely to result in a rear rollover...reducing the possibility to negligible on a level surface. Slopes...well, a different issue altogether (moves your tractor's center of gravity)...same with trying to jerk a pull to get it moving.
Use some common sense and have a bit of respect for your equipment.

That's why I bowed out earlier. Too many variables in real life situations to conclusively say that it 'cannot happen'.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Too many variables in real life situations to conclusively say that it 'cannot happen'.

My point all along....

Never say never..........

 

[flusher]

We chased that bubble like our lives depended on it. Wanna try it?

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I pretty much destroyed a front drive, but I was both lifting and pulling backwards on what turned out to be a nearly immovable load to the point where only the front wheels had any traction. It was a learning experience. $2000 and a lot of hours of OJT. I can tell you it was a loud noise when all those parts broke at once. Just look at the difference in the sizes of your front and rear components and act accordingly.

As long as the pull is straight, using that bucket like a fishing rod on a halibut is a technique I use often.

Sorry to hear about your problem. Not surprising that your front end got busted up. If the front wheels would have broken traction and spun, you'd been OK. First thing I found out about 4WD on tractors is that you never, ever use the tractor and FEL on a high-traction surface (like concrete) to push into going forward or pull backward on a heavy, immovable load. Sure, it's a judgement call regarding the traction capability of the surface, but if your judgement is off, you pay the price.

 

[Short Game]

Sorry to hear about your problem. Not surprising that your front end got busted up. If the front wheels would have broken traction and spun, you'd been OK. First thing I found out about 4WD on tractors is that you never, ever use the tractor and FEL on a high-traction surface (like concrete) to push into going forward or pull backward on a heavy, immovable load. Sure, it's a judgement call regarding the traction capability of the surface, but if your judgement is off, you pay the price.

Yeah, I keep bringing it up so others won't have to go through what I did. It was about six years ago, but those extended times when the tractor is down are memorable. The previous owner of that tractor had busted the ring and pinion when he drove it down a steep bank and broke the front drive trying to back out. The dealer shop where he bought the tractor (now out of business) put in the wrong ring gear which led to my first front drive failure. I fixed that and then went and busted it myself. I don't want to tear down another front drive, where twelve pounds of steel can cost $2,000.

 

[jim7631]

Just bought a JD 1050 w/ FEL and 4WD. Does anyone know whether I can fill the front axle fluid reservoir from either fluid port? I can only open one fluid cap and if that one does the job, I'm happy.

Jim

 

[LD1]

Just bought a JD 1050 w/ FEL and 4WD. Does anyone know whether I can fill the front axle fluid reservoir from either fluid port? I can only open one fluid cap and if that one does the job, I'm happy.

Jim

Try posting a new thread in the John Deere section here John Deere Owning/Operating - TractorByNet.com

instead of asking this question in this thread, which is totally un-related.

You will probabally get pleanty of responses and help there:thumbsup: