This field I was baling during the summer has some very fine stemmed staulks-leaf grass in the middle of the field. The outside part of the field is more smooth brome and much thicker staulk and leaf. When the baler goes from the thicker brome down into the very fine grass it might miss a bale or two then ties fine after that. I finding the bad missed bales with one string thats tied when I break them up to re-bale later. What might cause this? I doesnt do it all the time but all the bad-missed bales happen with going from the thick stemmed grass into the fine stemmed grass. I almost dread sometimes when I see the windrow full of fine stemmed grass coming at me
Whats causing the missed bales?
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What is your baler? It could be that the finer stuff isn't compressing the same and is changing the tension onthe strings. Some model balers are worse than others at this. We added wedges to the chamber to help with a similar problem.
sweettractors
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Try backing off the bale density a little. The twine you buy nowdays sometimes has weak places in it. Ken Sweet
AKfish
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Good windrows with a more consistent density of hay into the chamber can make all the difference in how the baler ties each bale.
Is it possible that when you rake that the lighter, thin-stemmed grass could be better distributed (mixed) with the heavier Brome grass?
AKfish
Is it possible that when you rake that the lighter, thin-stemmed grass could be better distributed (mixed) with the heavier Brome grass?
AKfish
trac
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If a knotter is tieing correctly, it should'nt matter the density of the windrow. It might make a irregular shape bale, but it should tie. I watched the knotters tie at New Holland baler school with no hay in the chamber at all. If everything is right, it will tie a knot in 1.3 seconds.
AKfish
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No hay in the chamber... and it'll tie a knot? They set the bale wheel up to rotate on plunger stokes and not on the actual hay in the chamber, then. Or something similar.
My baler won't work that way in the field - that's for sure. If the bale wheel doesn't rotate then the needles won't trip; and no knots!
I agree that you'll get irregular, sloppy, loose; falling-apart bales if your windrows aren't fairly consistent. I've had bales come out the back end with one side tied real well and the other twine has fallen off (or not tied) with the hay pukin' out on the ground.
Hand feed it and the bale comes out good.
I was over to the neighbors this summer - baled up all his hay - as he sheared off the drive shaft on the feeder fingers on his 2007 - NH 575.
He knows how to rake up windrows; great windrows! His windrows made my old JD 336 baler spit out the most consistent, cookie cutter bales! Never missed a bale and darn near every bale looked just like the one before it!
Made me wonder if someone had swapped out balers with me in the middle of the night... and left me their good one!
AKfish
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Absolutely.
When bailing with any bailer you must adjust your ground speed according to windrow density. You need as a benchmark, 12-14 slices per bale. It's up to the operator to gage the intake (by watching the pickup and material being fed into the plunger. Of course that is all dependent on if the bailer is maintained properly, initial twine tewnsion is set properly, the wiper arm to billhook clearance is set properly and there are no sharp edges on the billhook or billhook jaw to snag the twine.
I regularly check my knotters on my 575 high capacity prior to bailing by tripping them with nothing in the bail chamber. If all the parameters are correct, the initial twine tension/twine discs will hold the twine tight enough to form a knot
Even JD has went to packer fingers, They finally realized that feed augers are fine for grain legs and post holes but that's about it.....:laughing:
Some operators feel that if the bailer ran well, they can just put it away with no maintenace and use it again, later. That don't work. Square bailers, especially square bailers have lots of moving parts and components that require hands on service after each session. My best friend is the grease gun and air hose....
Deere still uses an auger feed with a fork that feeds the chamber. They have for a very, very long time. I think even the T14 & T24 were this way.
AKfish
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Yep.. you have to trip the accuator arm - I do that often "preseason run-up" as well as hand feed several bales before I hit the field. And I air hose everything and re-grease before I put 'er to bed in the fall, too.
That wasn't very clear in the comment - IMO.
What's on the end of the shaft that drives the feeder fingers on the 575 - a gear sprocket...?
If you pull in a chunk of tree limb about 5'' in diameter - you'll know first hand what happens to that shaft as well as the pillow block bearings surrounding the shaft! Like a hand grenade went off!
Yep.. JD still has an auger to go along with the feeder fingers.
AKfish
That wasn't very clear in the comment - IMO.
What's on the end of the shaft that drives the feeder fingers on the 575 - a gear sprocket...?
If you pull in a chunk of tree limb about 5'' in diameter - you'll know first hand what happens to that shaft as well as the pillow block bearings surrounding the shaft! Like a hand grenade went off!
Yep.. JD still has an auger to go along with the feeder fingers.
AKfish
jagyzf
Silver Member
Isn't there a slip clutch behind the flywheel or somewhere? If yes it sounds like it has rusted and now didn't slip.
