Haywire
Veteran Member
Ok Ok... I'll go separate the busses on the sub panel. Shouldn't take long anyway. 
Ok Ok... I'll go separate the busses on the sub panel. Shouldn't take long anyway.![]()
not to be a stick in the mud, but not too many years ago the code didnt care if subpanels had the grounds and neutrals tied together AS LONG AS A GROUND WIRE DID NOT CONECT THE TWO PANELS. In other words, if only 3 wires are run between the main panel and the sub panel, and the sub panel has its own ground rods, then its OK to leave the neutral bus gand the ground nus bonded together that way.
I have installed many of these kinds of panels over the years. Its the newer codes (i think the 2005 was the first) that required a separate ground wire run with the 2 hots and the neutral that started the isolated neutral bar issue.
You really need to be safe and get yourself a set of Code Check books.
This is the link.
I will say it again,
Code Check: Building, Plumbing, Electrical (Taunton)
You really need to be safe and get yourself a set of Code Check books.
This is the link.
I will say it again,
Code Check: Building, Plumbing, Electrical (Taunton)
Are you selling code books ???If you have an artical you want to Quote from the 2011 code then " Quote It"
When I put in my welding setup, what I did was the following:
-50A 2 pole breaker connected to a 60A manual cutoff switch
-This was all connected with 3/0 gauge cable (believe me, it was a pain in the backside to pull that cable...)
-This was then connected to another 50A 2 pole breaker in the garage (which also serves as the garage's welding socket power switch), which was then connected to a 250v welding socket
It all sounds like overkill for a 230V/50A setup, but we got the cable at a huge discount for some reason, otherwise it would have broken the bank.
Now regarding the OP's question, there were two hot lines and of course a ground line. Wiring was straightforward. The only difficult part of the whole install was pulling that darn cable!