From old and used to new, back to old??

   / From old and used to new, back to old?? #1  

duglong

New member
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Aug 11, 2011
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9
Location
Central Ohio
Tractor
duglong@hotmail.com
So I am still in the process of purchasing my first tractor. Initially I was set to pay something less than $5000 for an old tractor. All I really need it for is bush hogging and mowing about 13 acres, and pulling wagons, etc around. Then I came across a 1994 Ford 2120 with loader for a good price, only to have the deal slip through my hands. At this point I think the idea of a loader had me set on one, so my search continued with the added necessity of a loader. At some point the prices of 20+ year old tractors with loaders guided me to the idea that it made sense to buy a new tractor with zero% financing and spread the cost over 5 or 6 years (I mean heck, they last 20,30 or 40 years, right?) Well, once I figured out the cash price was $2000 less than the "zero%" financing price, I took another step back. I again realized I dont "need" a loader, I have neighbors that would likely help if I did need one for a project, and I dont need a tractor for bragging. Soooo, I am pretty much back to my original search criteria, but have learned so much more since I first started looking that I am more confused than ever, haha. I am now pretty much set on some OLD ford that will cost me less than $3000, runs pretty well without a bunch of maintenance, and is safe. If you were to buy a early model ford, which would it be? 2n, 8n, 9, jubilee? The 800s seem hard to find around here.
 
   / From old and used to new, back to old?? #2  
The oldest I would buy to actually work would be a NAA (Jubilee). They had quite a few improvements over the 8n that make them a little more 'modern' tractor. Really though your best bet would be to get up into the later '50s models that also had live PTO. I get by fine bush hogging with my NAA but live PTO is always nice.

I will add that even if you get one it great condition, expect to work on it quite a bit to keep it running. This is just the nature of them, even when they were new. They didn't have so many 'maintenance free' features as they do today. Oil bath air cleaners, points, spark plugs, carb adjustments, dry brakes, etc are all things that take occasional maintenance, some more than others.
 
   / From old and used to new, back to old?? #3  
Pretty much in agreement with Verticaltrx, we have an NAA and two 600 models. The later models had a lower geared 1st gear which really helps. We farmed with an 841, but sold it; would love to have that tractor back.

I love old Fords.

Soundguy can tell you everything you need to know about old Ford tractors.
 
   / From old and used to new, back to old?? #4  
Look on craigslist. A loader will be used a lot more than you think. Look for a Diesel, will pay for itself in fuel costs over a few years, and no plugs, points, or carb to deal with. Hard to tell just what you need without a location, things are different all over the world.
 
   / From old and used to new, back to old?? #5  
So I am still in the process of purchasing my first tractor. Initially I was set to pay something less than $5000 for an old tractor. All I really need it for is bush hogging and mowing about 13 acres, and pulling wagons, etc around. Then I came across a 1994 Ford 2120 with loader for a good price, only to have the deal slip through my hands. At this point I think the idea of a loader had me set on one, so my search continued with the added necessity of a loader. At some point the prices of 20+ year old tractors with loaders guided me to the idea that it made sense to buy a new tractor with zero% financing and spread the cost over 5 or 6 years (I mean heck, they last 20,30 or 40 years, right?) Well, once I figured out the cash price was $2000 less than the "zero%" financing price, I took another step back. I again realized I dont "need" a loader, I have neighbors that would likely help if I did need one for a project, and I dont need a tractor for bragging. Soooo, I am pretty much back to my original search criteria, but have learned so much more since I first started looking that I am more confused than ever, haha. I am now pretty much set on some OLD ford that will cost me less than $3000, runs pretty well without a bunch of maintenance, and is safe. If you were to buy a early model ford, which would it be? 2n, 8n, 9, jubilee? The 800s seem hard to find around here.

I did old iron for 25 years. A MF135 diesel. Awesome tractor and no regrets. Tractor still ran like new when I sold it. But I wanted a quick detach loader so I bought new. A quick detach loader becomes priceless once you have used one. I'm not getting any younger and the wear and tear on these old bones the quick detach loader has saved me was worth every penny I paid for it.
 
   / From old and used to new, back to old?? #6  
The only problem I had with my NAA and mowing is that the PTO is not live or independent. Sometimes I would get the rotary cutter into brush and bog the engine, killing it before I could get my foot on the clutch. Then, the clutch would allow the engine to be decoupled from the transmission, but the PTO would still be in a bind and the gear shifter was extremely hard to get into neutral with the binding cutter. The neutral sensing switch would stop the starter from operating, so I was in a fix until I could get that shifter to neutral.

The NAA and 600s are nice tractors, but they have some limitations that can be frustrating at times. Their real advantage over the Ns is that the hydraulics are live (operate with the clutch depressed). Because the hydraulic pump is on the engine, you can have the 3PH lift anytime the engine is running. On the 9N thru 8N, the hydraulic pump is in the transmission housing and when you depress the clutch, it is decoupled so that you cannot lift the 3PH. Later model Fords with two stage clutches and others with independent PTO are big improvements over the early Fords.

I'm also a big fan of 12 volt negative ground electrical systems. Six volt postive ground systems are fine, but parts for 12 volt systems and 12 volt 1-wire alternators sure are nice.
 
   / From old and used to new, back to old?? #7  
I went through the same process 5 or 6 years ago. I found that unless I was willing to purchase a 20-30 or more year old machine, I would be paying pretty high prices for anything used and well taken care of - compared to new.

At that point I was not comfortable with anything so old that it was actually worthwhile $ wise.

I had no plans to get a loader - much like you. All I needed the tractor for was bush hogging and I was going to contract out the snow removal.

The fine folks at TBN talked me into getting a loader and boy am I glad they did. Your tractor will get at 2x the use with the loader WHETHER YOU PLAN ON THAT OR NOT than without.

I decided to go with brand new at that time with 0% financing and paid it off in 3 years. There was no cash back on the model I purchased. I purchased a very basic model of a new tractor - no bells and whistles at all. It has been hassle free and I have enjoyed every minute of tractoring without having to worry about anything to repair - although new or old, something is going to come up from time to time that you will have to deal with.

Since then I have recently purchased and older MF 255 to have around as a second tractor to spread manure and so on. I'm quite a bit more comfortable with machines now and the support on TBN when you do run into an issue is nothing short of AMAZING.

I can't tell you whether new or old is the right thing for you and your finances. However the logic that these things do last a LONG time is sound.

Nothing wrong with going the route of an older ford or MF diesel or a newer Kubota/Kioti etc. with a loader.

The only way you will figure out the value of a loader is after you have had one.
 
   / From old and used to new, back to old?? #8  
Alot of good things have been said ... it is hard to find the right used tractor that has been properly cared for, maintained and won't cost alot in the nickle and dime area.

A loader? Well years ago I thought I didn't need one, never forget the day I finally got one and I asked how did I ever manage without one.

How about a repo? You can watch websites of ag credit companies who sell them for alot less than they are worth. Touch base with your local banks, the assest management director will be glad to take your contact info and call you when they get something in.... and probably carry in house financing.

Yes ... you stand the chance that the repo may have been neglected ... ask for the condition report filed from the repo company ... they go thru the machine pretty good and list things in the report.
 
   / From old and used to new, back to old?? #9  
Unless you really, really want a used 1950-70s era Ford tractor, I'd advise widening your search. There are many Massey Ferguson and Farmall tractors that would work for you on your 13-acre spread. For example, I have a 1964 MF135 diesel deluxe tractor (no FEL, 45 hp engine, 37 hp pto, 2WD, power-assist steering, 12F/6R gear tranny) that cost me $3600 in July06. The 135 has the Perkins diesel which is a very reliable, fuel efficient engine. You can get parts from MF dealers and from second sources on the Web.

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BTW: my 135 is a field tractor that has been modified (lowered) to work in the olive orchards around here. The 28" dia rear rims normally found on field tractors were replaced by 16" dia rims carrying Goodrich 6ply 18.4-16A rubber and the front axle spindles were shortened to keep the tractor level. Lowering the CG stablizes the tractor so it can be used safely to mow steep slopes (not a problem for me since my 10 acres is flat pasture) and those wide rears provide high flotation to keep tire rutting to a minimum.
 
   / From old and used to new, back to old?? #10  
Duglong, can you tell us the general area where you are located? That would help with suggestions. Here's a Ford 600 and Disc for sale at a reasonable price. It looks like it's at a dealer in Royse City, Tx.

On the other end of the used scale, here's a JD 4200 that looks like it is worth the money at $10,500.
 

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