The Log house Project begins........

[Iplayfarmer]

To wire a light to be switched from more than one place requires a lot of extra wiring (14/2 to the first switch and then 14/3 to the light and each additional switch) and 2, 3, and 4 way switches. By looking at the x10 website it looks like a lot of the wiring would be eliminated, because the switch (controller) would only have to be powered and then the light powered and the controller tells the light to come on instead of a wire from the switch to the light and a wire from switch to switch. Clear as mud??? Wiring 2, 3, and 4 way switches is not one of my strong points. I always have to use a template on those.

Chris

You can save room in the conduit by not running your neutral lines to the switch box. Leave your neutrals in the ceiling and only run the wires you need for the switch. There's no need for a neutral wire in the box if all you have are switches.

You can save further room in the box by splitting your various lights out at the box. For example, run a hot wire into the box and split that hot wire for the porch light, ceiling light, and lamp lights That cuts you down to 5 wires total. 1 line hot wire, 2 runners for the 3 way switch, 1 switched hot for the porch, and 1 switched hot for the lamp lights. 5 wires in a 1/2" conduit (not romex) should fit comforably.

Be sure to use different colors so you know what's what on the other end.

 

[MotorSeven]

Thanks Iplay, I think that will work.

Working on the loft beam right now. Have it up at the house and the "L" shaped joint is cut out(mating 2 - 15' 5"x10"'s). While trying to figure out how to get each half up on the wall it started raining....pic's to follow.

 

[EddieWalker]

I would run a ground wire into the switch box with the others. Ground can be a size smaller then your hot wires.

You don't have to run different colored wires. Just be sure to stick withe the correct colors for what you are doing. Green or bare for ground. White for neutral and black, red or something else that's hot.

I would just buy a roll of white, black and ground. Then I would get some colored tape to mark the ends so you don't confuse them. Of course, if you just run each wire to where it's going one at a time, then you don't need to mark them.

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

I personally like to have my hot lines go to the switch, and then from the switch, run to the light or fan or whatever I'm wanting to control. This makes it easier to change the light later on without having to turn off the power at the breaker. It's a small thing, but with how quickly fashions change, and new lights come out, it's just nicer that way. Same thing with ceiling fans. You might get lucky and it will last decades, but I've had three brand new fans from Home Depot come out of the box and not work.

Eddie

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I would run a ground wire into the switch box with the others. Ground can be a size smaller then your hot wires.

Right!! Absolutely. I can't believe I forgot the ground.

 

[MotorSeven]

Eddie can a ground be a 16 ga? I am using 14 ga for the lights & already have several different colors. I also picked up 3 Lew brass covered flip cap floor outlets off fleabay for a great price(yes still pricey but these normally run about $80 each).
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I think if I run down 3-4 more that's all I will need for the living room & master bedroom which are the only two rooms that need them. I can use the screw down caps in the bedroom since they will usually have stuff plugged in all the time.

 

[MotorSeven]

I got the Loft Beam up today and another row of logs. Someone{cough} mis-measured the notch so we had to take one side back down and re-cut it. Thank goodness it was measured wrong on the fat side:laughing:

Anyway, tomorrow I am cutting Poplars for the tie poles and peeling them. Once they are up I have only the last row of logs to go and the walls are done:thumbsup:

Beam up/two rows to go this morning:

Yes, I did put a 12' 6x6 pole down in the basement under this pole to support the weight.

 

[MotorSeven]

Temp base for the support pole(Poplar):

The top pic shows the metal strap that reinforces the beam, it goes around the beam and will be hidden in the wall.

 

[MotorSeven]

I have to brag a little. Keep in mind every log is a little different, most 6 to 6-1/8" wide on one side and up to 6-3/16's on the other. Before we set the loft beam it I measured around the house from the sub-floor up...it was all within 1/4". My other log house did not turn out that way and the last course of logs were off by over 1" in places. The last course of logs had to be fitted without spiking them down, a measurment taken up each corner and a line popped all the way around the inside of the house that was level. Then all the logs were taken down, loaded on a trailer and taken to the mill where they were milled on the line. Once back up the wall height was perfect. I was kinda expecting to do this on this house, so far so good.

 

[forgeblast]

Very Impressive Build. Look forward to every pic you post M7.