VERY expensive beet juice!

[IslandTractor]

why have a tire shop do it. that's a DIY project..

soundguy

I get your point but not many have the tools or strength to be manhandling or busting beads on rear tractor tires. I suppose with experience one could change out or add a tube with the wheel still mounted but I don't cherish the idea of dealing with a several hundred pound rolling object.:laughing:

 

[Elkins45]

The glass sandblasting beads would be slowly blasting away the inside of the rim.

Wonder if anyone ever tried filling one with plain old sand?

How much is a barrel full of glass marbles? Or steel BBs?

 

[Soundguy]

Ca/CL isn't a sudden death syndrome as it is portrayed. I've had Ca/Cl in the rears on my MF150 since the day after I bought it....In May of 1971. SO FAR....there is NO rust on either rear wheel. And that's after several punctures, tire/tube changes, ect. I've got dads old Ferguson F40 out behind the barn awaiting restoration. Ca/Cl has been in those rears since 1957. Same story.....no rust.

If you're the type that neglects maintenance, and would let a tire sit and leak for months on end, maybe you should find another fill material. If you take even as much as "average care" of your equipment, Ca/Cl isn't nearly as harmful as is imagined by some.

yep.. my 8n has 1 new and one vintage tire on it.. the new one was due to a blow out of the other vintage one. tires are cacl loaded. I cleaned up the old hat style rims. ( original ), and repainted them prior to re-assembly.

both tires have good water proof tubes.. neither rim has rust.

as you say.. routine maintenance is what is needed.. and if a leak is found.. fix it and mitigate it with cleanup to protect the metal.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

I get your point but not many have the tools or strength to be manhandling or busting beads on rear tractor tires. I suppose with experience one could change out or add a tube with the wheel still mounted but I don't cherish the idea of dealing with a several hundred pound rolling object.:laughing:

tools are minimal.. or CAN be.. at a minimum.. you really want 2 spoons, a 3rd helps, and / or spooons of other shapes to deal with different rims and tire beads.

for smaller tires, things like c-clamps can pop beads off rims.. for larger tires, things like yer farm truck rolling over the tire can pop beads off rims.. gotta be creative.

vegi soap, or as FWJ stated, regular dish soap is the preferred lube for rubber on rims.. if you want fancy.. some stores make a ru-glyde rubber lube ( soap based )..

a real tire hammer is nice.. but a sledge will do in a pinch.

thus about 30$ of tools are the MINIMUM you need to start, and up that to 100$ and you got the stuff to do fronts all the way to rears.. harbor freight has a front tire changer rig that drops to 49$ now and then..

as for weight / strength.. again be creative / smarter than the tire a 8' 2x4 on a short fulcrum can move an 800# tire.

I do all my own so far.. that includes loaded beefy 16.9-24 rears.. which by the way.. the water loading alone weighs 510#, kick in another couple hundred easy for the rim and tire casing.. maybee more like 250#.. then the ballast.. and you have 800# right there...

I weight 130# and am 5'6 in cowboy boots.. and just got over a heart condition..

soundguy

 

[IslandTractor]

I weight 130# and am 5'6 in cowboy boots.. and just got over a heart condition..

soundguy

Maybe, but you are the mighty Soundguy with a heck of a lot more experience than most of us. :thumbsup:

I would still shy away from a rear tire project that could easily turn into a weekend of pain and frustration. Remember, this is all about whether it is worthwhile to use CaCl over WWF. You would gain maybe 30% extra weight but it isn't often that a 5000lb tractor can do something that a 4800lb tractor cannot so I still don't see the benefit. WWF or diluted methanol is so simple and there are no maintenance considerations or fear of leaks. Cost would be about the same for someone who had to go out and buy a tube and tools to do the installation for CaCl.

 

[Short Game]

Wonder if anyone ever tried filling one with plain old sand?

How are you going to measure the tire wear on the insides?

 

[Short Game]

Ooh, I bet that gives a comfy ride.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Maybe, but you are the mighty Soundguy with a heck of a lot more experience than most of us. :thumbsup:

I would still shy away from a rear tire project that could easily turn into a weekend of pain and frustration. Remember, this is all about whether it is worthwhile to use CaCl over WWF. You would gain maybe 30% extra weight but it isn't often that a 5000lb tractor can do something that a 4800lb tractor cannot so I still don't see the benefit. WWF or diluted methanol is so simple and there are no maintenance considerations or fear of leaks. Cost would be about the same for someone who had to go out and buy a tube and tools to do the installation for CaCl.

I'm 64 years old, have 40% loss of use in left shoulder as a result of a piece of flying shrapnel on a bad day in an southeast asian country, circa 1967, bad knees, and a back that belongs on a 90 year old....

I change my own tires.

No one I've ever known can wrestle a 1000lb tire/wheel....so you don't turn it into a wrestling match. Tire is balanced and rolled (not lifted) if removed from tractor. Wheel stays on tractor..... The heaviest thing I lift during the entire episode is an EMPTY innertube. (20lbs????)

With fluid pump in/out, and tube change, an hour at worst with decent equipment, a couple hours with a cheap pump and a few cheap tools. ....Done 'em in less than an hour on a number of occasions. Tire dealer charges $100 to $500 depending on tire size and circumstances. I'll stand on my head in 4' of swamp water for $500 an hour.....

Work smarter not harder...........

As far as Cal/cl v wwf....I have no more or no less "fear of leaks" with ANY liquid fill. I simply wouldn't allow a tractor of mine to sit there with a leaky tire regardless of what was inside of it. So the big bad boogy man won't be lurking inside my tires....They leak, they get fixed. I fail to see the value in using "lightweight ballast".....Sorta defeats the purpose.

 

[jimmysisson]

How about this question:
Do you need the extra weight at all? I have side hills and steep grades and am happy to have filled tires (CaCl). But with CI wheels, you could try using the new (nice!) tractor without fill and see how it performs for you. Who knows, by the time you get around to it, washer fluid may be cheap again (springtime). Just a thought.
'Course this thread wouldn't be half as much fun then...
Jim

 

[Soundguy]

. Tire dealer charges $100 to $500 depending on tire size and circumstances. I'll stand on my head in 4' of swamp water for $500 an hour.....

Work smarter not harder...........

As far as Cal/cl v wwf....I have no more or no less "fear of leaks" with ANY liquid fill. I simply wouldn't allow a tractor of mine to sit there with a leaky tire regardless of what was inside of it. So the big bad boogy man won't be lurking inside my tires....They leak, they get fixed. I fail to see the value in using "lightweight ballast".....Sorta defeats the purpose.

yep.. here it's 75$ just for the 'farm call, then the meter starts running for the labor.. usualy minimum charge is 175$ PLUS the farm call.

that's 250$ minimum... that's the price of a 11.2-28 tire new...

I squeak too much when i walk to give someone else the value of a new rear tire if i can do it myself and have the time to do so.

soundguy