HELP - Utility lines next to Stumps & the driveway!

[MossflowerWoods]

I'm not sure this is the correct place for this post, but here goes.

Finally the Utilities got out here to mark the buried lines. All there is out here is electric and phone.

The #$%^&ing utilities trenched heir lines one on each side of the drive, and on on each side of the loop. The electricity line actually crosses under the driveway to change sides TWICE!!! I want to know who the drunk was driving the trencher...

Regardless, along the edge of the driveway, where the pasture is going in, there is a line of pawlonia stumps that are going crazy sending our runners and making life TERRIBLE. These trees are invasive and fast growing. Think crab-grass & dandelions crossed with an Oak Tree.

So approx 6" off the driveway is the phone line, and within approx a foot is the centerline of the stumps I need to grind (which is also just about the intended fence line for the pasture!!!!

What can I do! there is some rule about within a couple feet all digging must be by hand tools!

These stumps MUST GO!

Do I call the utility and ask them to remove the stumps? or to move the line?

I am not using phone service, but I might in the future, and I do NOT want to break their line.

This stinks.:thumbdown:

The power line is also in terrible spots. I cannot build my Motorcycle shed by the gate because the power line runs right through that spot, and at an agnle so it kills that whole 25 by 40" space...

Thanks in advance,
David

 

[Western]

I would call the utilities out and see if they have a solution, they may offer to help, or tell you your on your own.

Either way you'll know exactly where you stand

 

[JerryK]

If you are just grinding the stumps down to a few inches below grade you should be OK. The electric SHOULD be trenched in a couple feet underground and well out of the way, and they usually put the phone line in 18" or so... Probably would cost you big bucks to have them come out and re-locate your underground electric... they would probably just abandon the old wires and trench in a new feed. You could never dig up the old lines without damaging them. Good luck.... Jerry

 

[Dmace]

Hand dig on top of the marks to verify they are correct and find the depth of each. Once you know the depth and that the marks are correct then you can dig with machinery knowing you will not hit the line.

I use a RD 7000 on some job sites that can actually tell you the depth of the line as well as locating it. Depending on the burial type (direct buried vs. conduit) the power should be 24-36" and the phone should be 12-24".

 

[smstonypoint]

Another thought.

Depending on your planning horizon, you could stop regrowth using the cut-stump method -- make a fresh cut across the top of the stumps and then spray or brush on 41% glyphosate (generic Roundup), either undiluted or diluted up to say 25% with water or diesel fuel. Then wait for the stumps to rot. There are products available that are supposed to accelerate rotting -- I haven't used them and so cannot comment on their effectiveness.

Steve

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Hand dig on top of the marks to verify they are correct and find the depth of each. Once you know the depth and that the marks are correct then you can dig with machinery knowing you will not hit the line.

Depending on the burial type (direct buried vs. conduit) the power should be 24-36" and the phone should be 12-24".

If you are just grinding the stumps down to a few inches below grade you should be OK. The electric SHOULD be trenched in a couple feet underground and well out of the way, and they usually put the phone line in 18" or so...

Jerry & Dmace,

The depth of the phone line is the key I agree.

Is there anywhere to find "code" info so I can make a guestimate on depth?

I'm moving the shed location. I need to do some site prep now, but such is life. The fence line I can move slightly, but the stumps have got to go...

Thanks,
David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Another thought.

Depending on your planning horizon, you could stop regrowth using the cut-stump method -- make a fresh cut across the top of the stumps and then spray or brush on 41% glyphosate (generic Roundup), either undiluted or diluted up to say 25% with water or diesel fuel. Then wait for the stumps to rot. There are products available that are supposed to accelerate rotting -- I haven't used them and so cannot comment on their effectiveness.

Steve

Steve,

My reading on Pawlonia is that the poison method does not always work. It is an insidious species, with aggressive runners. The very first stump I ground was a Pawlonia and the side runner is growing like mad right on the cut edge.

I already have runners sprouting 15 and 20 feet away and the trees were cut down last November...

I HATE these trees with a passion...

David

 

[High Compression]

Another thought.

Depending on your planning horizon, you could stop regrowth using the cut-stump method -- make a fresh cut across the top of the stumps and then spray or brush on 41% glyphosate (generic Roundup), either undiluted or diluted up to say 25% with water or diesel fuel. Then wait for the stumps to rot. There are products available that are supposed to accelerate rotting -- I haven't used them and so cannot comment on their effectiveness.

Steve

I assume that this is your own private drive and these are the phone and electric that feed only your house? If so, don't even worry about the phone. If you cut it, and you want it later. Just call the phone company to hook you up. When they come out to do so and test the line, they will find something wrong and install a new faster better quality line at their dime. Just play dumb.

Now as far the electric. Do you know if it is primary or secondary? Do you have a big metal box up by the house that has a little hum to it? If so that is a transformer and that means that is a primary (i.e. roughly 7200 volts). DON'T HIT THAT ONE! It should be 3'-4' deep if it's not real rocky. Regardless it should be in conduit and at least 24" deep, secondary and 36+" for primary and you should be able to grind the stump with no concern.

Removing the stumps is possible, but it will be like removing a brain tumor. Slow and careful and lots of hand digging. Good luck.:thumbsup:

 

[Fixemall]

Do a "cheat" grind on the stumps, this only takes them down only 3" below ground, from there spray roundup, add soil and seed. 3" should be a safe depth and new soil and a new seed bed on top should make them a memory.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

I assume that this is your own private drive and these are the phone and electric that feed only your house? If so, don't even worry about the phone. If you cut it, and you want it later. Just call the phone company to hook you up. When they come out to do so and test the line, they will find something wrong and install a new faster better quality line at their dime. Just play dumb.

Now as far the electric. Do you know if it is primary or secondary? Do you have a big metal box up by the house that has a little hum to it? If so that is a transformer and that means that is a primary (i.e. roughly 7200 volts). DON'T HIT THAT ONE! It should be 3'-4' deep if it's not real rocky. Regardless it should be in conduit and at least 24" deep, secondary and 36+" for primary and you should be able to grind the stump with no concern.

Removing the stumps is possible, but it will be like removing a brain tumor. Slow and careful and lots of hand digging. Good luck.:thumbsup:

High Compression,

Yes this is my private driveway.

I am totally staying away from he electric, and YES I have a big green High Voltage box up by the house. So this is SERIOUS voltage line meandering around my driveway... Great...

Something the widow said back when I was buying this place makes me think the electric is not in conduit (unless those orange plastic ones could be used.

The phone line is my issue now...

David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Do a "cheat" grind on the stumps, this only takes them down only 3" below ground, from there spray roundup, add soil and seed. 3" should be a safe depth and new soil and a new seed bed on top should make them a memory.

That is basically what I hope to accomplish.

Makes it all more complicated though...

David

 

[miller3980]

High Compression,

Yes this is my private driveway.

I am totally staying away from he electric, and YES I have a big green High Voltage box up by the house. So this is SERIOUS voltage line meandering around my driveway... Great...

Something the widow said back when I was buying this place makes me think the electric is not in conduit (unless those orange plastic ones could be used.

The phone line is my issue now...

David

Forget the phone line I have cut mine 3 times and they come out and put a new one in. The first 2 times was their fault, first was only an inch under the driveway and i actually cut it backdraging with the skidsteer second was not where they said it was. Last summer I was digging a stump out with an excavator and knew where the line was and the last scoop before popping the stump out I just completely forgot about it and cut it. When they came out i even told them what happened and showed them where and the guy said ill just run a new one from the road its easier. Im 400 feet from the road. Was never charged for any of them.

 

[Fixemall]

As far as your building goes, you can just build a sled style and move it as necessary. For the sled base you will have to go with four runners made from double 2x12's with the bottom corners nipped 3" so they won't snag when moving, use 2x10's for the spacers every 12". Glue and nail your sled base together and top with 3/4" plywood that is glued and screwed, build your shed on that as you would normally, with the addition of cross braces halfway up the wall and you will end up with a portable shed strong enough to be moved or taken with you if you move. I have built 2 such structures and have moved them a few times as my needs changed, another benefit is portable means no permit in most areas.

 

[jenkinsph]

As far as your building goes, you can just build a sled style and move it as necessary. For the sled base you will have to go with four runners made from double 2x12's with the bottom corners nipped 3" so they won't snag when moving, use 2x10's for the spacers every 12". Glue and nail your sled base together and top with 3/4" plywood that is glued and screwed, build your shed on that as you would normally, with the addition of cross braces halfway up the wall and you will end up with a portable shed strong enough to be moved or taken with you if you move. I have built 2 such structures and have moved them a few times as my needs changed, another benefit is portable means no permit in most areas.

Not much point in building the shed to be portable. If the electric line fails for any reason the fix will be to run a new line. Hopefully with an improved path from street to transformer pad. My concern with the new building site would be depth of foundation though, don't wan't to cut the line.

 

[Fixemall]

Not much point in building the shed to be portable. If the electric line fails for any reason the fix will be to run a new line. Hopefully with an improved path from street to transformer pad. My concern with the new building site would be depth of foundation though, don't wan't to cut the line.

No foundation=no line cut and no permit, less hassle, no concrete and flexibility to move if future plans change.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

As far as your building goes, you can just build a sled style and move it as necessary. For the sled base you will have to go with four runners made from double 2x12's with the bottom corners nipped 3" so they won't snag when moving, use 2x10's for the spacers every 12". Glue and nail your sled base together and top with 3/4" plywood that is glued and screwed, build your shed on that as you would normally, with the addition of cross braces halfway up the wall and you will end up with a portable shed strong enough to be moved or taken with you if you move. I have built 2 such structures and have moved them a few times as my needs changed, another benefit is portable means no permit in most areas.

The shed (I have a number of other threads) is 20 x 10 and will hold my 4 Harley's.

I am planning to build it "floating" on deck footer's. I was going to start on Friday because I have 3 days off plus the weekend, and nice weather... We shall see what I can manage to get started...

Also 200 square foot or less = no permit here. Not sure if they have a ruling on sleds...

BUT, I plan to build a Sled Shed for my tools and a work bench. I think that idea ROCKS! But not before spring.

David

 

[Fixemall]

I just was just thinking about the one I built at the tree farm a few years ago, it is 10x16. It has been moved at least two dozen times as it is used for everything from a mobile office to a hut to warm up when selling Christmas trees...yes there even is a wood burner in there.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

I just was just thinking about the one I built at the tree farm a few years ago, it is 10x16. It has been moved at least two dozen times as it is used for everything from a mobile office to a hut to warm up when selling Christmas trees...yes there even is a wood burner in there.

It is a brilliant idea. I will build my shop/tool shed JUST like that, so I can move it.:thumbsup::thumbsup: I need to decide if it (shop/tool shed) would be better (easier to move?) as a 14.5 x 14.5 square or 10 x 20...

But this shed is specifically a Harley Garage for all intents and purposes. Semi permanent...

David

 

[LBrown59]

As far as your building goes, you can just build a sled style and move it as necessary. For the sled base you will have to go with four runners made from double 2x12's with the bottom corners nipped 3" so they won't snag when moving, use 2x10's for the spacers every 12". Glue and nail your sled base together and top with 3/4" plywood that is glued and screwed, build your shed on that as you would normally, with the addition of cross braces halfway up the wall and you will end up with a portable shed strong enough to be moved or taken with you if you move. I have built 2 such structures and have moved them a few times as my needs changed, another benefit is portable means no permit in most areas.

A big benefit also is there is no real estate tax on portable buildings because they aren't a perminent structure .

 

[randy41]

last time i had my phone line marked the guy doing it was able to estimate how deep it is based on his instrument readings. or so he said.