3-Point Hitch TC35DA 3 point lift

[searay]

Thanks for the repy. I was going drain the hydraulic system and change the filters. I have moved and spread (with the 16LA) over 100 tandem loads of dirt recently and I figured it needed to be done. Since I was going to drain the hydraulic system figured I might as well correct the leakdown issue, but, then this hopping thing started today. It makes me think something really bad is about to happen.
I leave my mower on all the time especially when I'm moving dirt, it makes a great counterweight. Having that hopping is extremely annoying and it causes the engine to constantly change rpm because the hydraulics keep kicking in and out.
I really take care of my tractor. I can't let anything go that is not right. The thought of putting chains on the mower to keep it up just rubs me the wrong way. I guess I'm **** about keeping things as they belong. Next is wire and duct tape to fix things and I'm not built that way.
I have another 10 tandem loads of dirt coming on Friday and I want to get this fixed before then. Having to take the operator platform off could really be an issue though, so I have to think about it some more.
I'm disappointed to hear that the service manual does not cover how to get to the valve during the removal/repair procedure. I appreciate the suggestion about the chains, and I may have to postpone the hydraulic servicing and go with the chain thing just to get this dirt spread.

 

[searay]

Jinman,
Back from the barn, checked for any more replies to my post. I read my reply to you. It sounds like I was accusing you of having a spit and bubble gum repair attitude. Not so. The problem is ME. I find that if I band-aid something and don't do it the right way, right away, it seems to get forgotten as a "things needing to get done" item. They tend to accumulate until the pile is so big it looks impossible to tackle. I decided the only way to prevent this from happening is to not let it happen. My life has been much simpler since I started doing this.
I apologize for my misleading remarks. I value your expertise and input so please don't think of me as an a** even though I sounded like one. Any more input would be appreciated. If I find a way to get this done within my limited abilities, I will post the results.

 

[jinman]

Searay, I'm not offended at all by your response. With your original post, you didn't fully describe the issue, but you made it clear that you could not afford nor get your tractor to a dealer for repair. Actually, if you had the gear model, non-deluxe tractor, this job would be much easier since all you have to remove is the seat to get to the lift cylinder. It seems that on our tractors, leaving on a load like the rotary cutter and having it bounce up and down on the lift causes scoring and early failure of the cylinder. You need to at least keep the tailwheel in contact with the ground to reduce the shock loads to the lift cylinder. If you want to see the details of a lift cylinder repair, search for JC-Jetro's posts and his repair on his 1700 series tractor. His lift cylinder and ours are almost identical. Ours just happens to be hidden below the operator platform that makes it a pain in the patoot to get to.

 

[JC-jetro]

Searay,

you might want to take time to look at the links below that goes thru the lift system as Jim mentioned. They are absoloutley identical in function amongst old Shibauras and new TC series in all sizes. As Jim said the issue is access to the lift system. Frankly the work is not complicated but it takes organization and patience. The platform and seat components no matter how complicated will come apart one piece at a time till you expose the lift cylinder area. Guys like you and I don't do this every day to have to remember things by repetition so I highly recommend taking pictures as you progressively open things up. That will help you to put things back if you need without worry. I have at least 10 magnetic cup that I bought from HF for $1 a piece. I organize the nut and bolts as I take them off so I don't even have to guess which to put back. I think it is a very manageable project, few dollars and some sweat equity and you'll be able to do it saving a lot of $$$. The threads below might be long but it covers everything in the lift system including hyd pump.

JC,

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/88973-sos-i-have-my-first.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/90819-my-f-1700-testing-my.html

 

[searay]

Jinman and JC-jetro, thanks for the suggestions. I've been thinking about this a lot, including druring the night when I should be sound asleep. I think I'm going to do this:

I don't want to have to remove the operator's platform even once. And if this happens again in another 750 hrs, I would have to do it all over again. My plan is to cut my own access hole beneath the seat so I can get to the cylinder. Making a suitable removable cover is a piece of cake.

My only problem is this:
Since I have never seen the area I need to access, and have never removed and reinstalled the cylinder before, I don't know exactly where to make the cut and how big it needs to be.
I need your help here if you can. I have attached (I hope) three photos.

Photo 1 shows the platform with the seat removed but the seat brackets and left side levers still in place.

Photo 2 shows the 6mm socket head cap screw securing the back of the bracket.

Photo 3 shows the area with the seat brackets and levers removed. I had to remove the levers so I could get my hand and a 13mm wrench under there to hold a nut while I used a 6mm alan to remove the socket head cap screw on the seat brackets. I was able to get the other side through the hole on that side where the draft control?? would be if I had it.

Photo 4 show a square drawn with orange grease pencil where I marked the tentative location for the access hole.

I checked several times from beneath the tractor to be sure there were no bolts or other attachments in that area. There are a couple of welded bolts but they are well outside the area so I could make the hole bigger if need be. The fabricated cover plate would have to be maybe an inch bigger than the hole so sufficient bolts could be used to guarantee structural integrity is not compromised. I also thought about adding a "picture frame" kind of steel plate around the access hole, but underneath, so I could drill and tap holes to attach the top cover plate to. This would sandwich the cover plate, original steel around the access plate, and the bottom "picture frame" reinforcement. Don't know if going that far is really necessary though as I have never seen the access plate configuration on the manual shift tractors.

Your guidance will really be appreciated.

 

[sweep]

Searay

I would do what Jinman recommends and chain up the lift for now, move your dirt and then get back to the tractor repair when you are not pressured with time.
Now, this is me, but if I was looking at a tractor to buy and the seat platform was cut out I would not buy it. Again,that is me especially about a fairly new tractor.

That type of jury rigged repair really turns me off and I know I am not the only one but I know others have done it that way. You may be planning on keeping this tractor for along time and that may not be a concern with you also.

Also by moving your dirt now you are not rushing to get the job done and I know Murphys law all too well, something is going to come up with the repair that is going to set you back. These first time repairs always take 4 times longer than planned and more heartaches along the way. Knowing NH dealers the parts you need may not even be in stock

 

[JC-jetro]

Searay,

I'm with Sweep on this. If you glance quickly thru the 2 links I pout up you'll be able to see the cylinder head/liner and piston removed. You'll have exactly that under the sheet metal. The cylinder head casting might be a bit different but not by much. I just can't see how cleanly you can cut the sheet metal to expose the cylinder head for removal. the knob that you see if is in the middle of the head and you need to cut big enough to be able to remove all the bolt. I think the sheet metal will be damaged unnecessarily and odes not buy you much. might be difficult to put the seat back after the sheet metal is all cut up. I have many pics of the head and how it relates to my seat and I can share here if you want. The innards all the same and sheet metal just covers it all.

JC,

 

[searay]

I can cut the sheet metal extemely cleanly. I drill 1/4 inch holes at the corners to provide a nice radius. I then use a Dremel with a reinforced cut-off wheel to cut the straight sections. I have used this procedure several times in the past and the results are excellent. Any minor flaws and sharp edges are easily removed with a file. I don't know how you thought I was going to make the cut, shears/plasma cutter/torch? I would never do anything to compromise the looks or integrety of the tractor. Thorough planning, the correct procedures, design, proper materials, and care are all that are needed to do a great job. When the job is done, including paint, it will look like it came out of the factory that way.

BTW, I will never be able to afford another tractor in my lifetime, so this will be it until I pass it on to my grandson.

 

[sweep]

Searay

This is the first time I have seen the area under this type of tractor. (I have a gear tractor). I would not call it sheetmetal more like structural steel.
I would think by the time you cut it out, make a new patch, bolt or weld it in and paint you could have unbolted much of the steel off and maybe even start putting it back on.

If welding it back on you have to worry about shorting something out on the tractor such as relays or sensors etc.

I could probably have that metal off unbolted in less than a 8 hour day as a first timer doing it. I made a steel support under my plastic fender and took off the fender in maybe 15 minutes or less.

 

[searay]

Thanks Sweep.

The metal is only 3/32". Not even 1/8. No problem at all for the Dremel cut-off wheel. The thickness of these cutters is only 0.05". I don't plan on doing any welding or any other kind of torch work... that's asking for major uglyness and trouble. Everything will be drilled, tapped and bolted. From the above comments I did not explain my idea clearly enough.

I'll just go ahead with my best guesses about the size and exact location of the access panel. I do not consider this a "jury rigged repair". I absolutely hate that kind of thing. I think this is correcting a design deficiency and making an improvement through a "field modification".

Thanks all for your input.