Antifreeze (again)

[MiserableOldFart]

Thanks for all the replies.. I wasn't sure if the TC26DA was wet sleeve or not. The owner's manual recommends NH anti-freeze but the dealer doesn't sell it. Next year I think I will switch to the Sierra. NH does make a propylene glycol based antifreeze too but when I asked the dealer about it he had never heard of it.

The premixed diesel stuff I bought does also mention cavitation in water pumps, but that probably only applies to much larger engines.

We don't have sewers here, and when I change the antifreeze, although I drain it and one flush into a bucket, when I run the hose to flush the running engine, there is always a tinge of color in what comes out and runs into the ground. From what I read, ethylene glycol isn't really much of a problem as long as it does get into the ground because it biodegrades pretty quickly. But it is very toxic and attractive to any wildlife or pets that come upon it.

 

[julichris]

May I ask here what is the function of changing the coolant. The manual recommends it (I have a TC45DA). The service department at my dealership scoffs at the idea and says it is unnecessary.

 

[sweep]

May I ask here what is the function of changing the coolant. The manual recommends it (I have a TC45DA). The service department at my dealership scoffs at the idea and says it is unnecessary.

Copied this from the net, easier than typing it out.

The life of the antifreeze depends on it's ability to inhibit corrosion. Silicates, phosphates and/or borates are used as corrosion inhibitors to keep the solution alkaline. As long as the antifreeze remains so, corrosion is held in check and there's no need to change the coolant. But as the corrosion inhibiting chemicals are used up over time, electrolytic corrosion starts to eat away at the metal inside the engine and radiator. Aluminum is especially vulnerable to corrosion and can turn to Swiss cheese rather quickly when conditions are right. Solder bloom can also form in copper\brass radiators causing leaks and restrictions. So changing the coolant periodically as preventative maintenance is a good way to prevent costly repairs.

Also antifreeze acts as a lubricant for the water pump and the lubricants wear out from age and heat.

 

[sweep]

What does your owner's manual call for? Read what it says and repeat over and over to yourself, "The dealer sells additives. He makes more money from me when I buy them." Do what you want. . . it's your money. As for me, anecdotes with no evidence are just fiction. What model tractor engines?

Why is it that 80s and 90s Fords don't have problems unless somebody brings it up in an anti-freeze discussion? I never hear anyone say, "Oh don't buy 80s and 90s Fords, they had water jacket damage." I think it's just another urban legend. Too bad Snopes doesn't debunk tractor rumors. Nothing against any of you personally, but you are being sucked in without concrete evidence. For me, when you go against manufacturer's recommendations, you have to show me. I'm from Missouri. . .

Why do many diesel PU trucks recommend DCA additives? They don't have wet liners. Cavitation happens in all diesel engines..it just happens more in wet liner diesel engines.

 

[jinman]

Peak anti-freeze guarantees engine protection for the life of your vehicle provided you flush out your cooling system prior to putting in their anti-freeze. This is just their way of insuring you have a clean system to start with and don't have a contaminated system before the anti-freeze is added. They also say that their anti-freeze is completely compatible with other anti-freezes. It's a bit humorous to read their statement, but it says, "Can be used to top-off any color of automotive antifreeze including green, yellow, orange, fuschia, blue and red." So if you have fuschia anti-freeze, you are good to go.:laughing:

Here's a link to Peak's website.

Peak also is the maker of Sierra brand propylene glycol, but it is not considered a lifetime anti-freeze to my knowledge and you also have to have a special tester to check if it meets the proper freeze protection. Regular anti-freeze testers check a different specific gravity than the Sierra. Here's a link to the Sierra site.

If you absolutely must have Fleetguard anti-freeze (they call it Fleet Charge), they also sell that with the SCAs included.

 

[Soundguy]

So if you have fuschia anti-freeze, you are good to go.:laughing:

Adding the napa sca/DAC addative (wine-red ) does tend to change the coolant to a redish pinkish color does that count?


soundguy

 

[MiserableOldFart]

So the conclusion I infer from all the above is that I'm good to go with the current antifreeze (Zerex heavy duty for diesel) and it should also be good for a couple years @<100hrs per year, and probably more, but two years should be fine.

Right?

And one more question: I bought the 50/50 mix, so didn't have to dilute, but does it make sense to use distilled water when you dilute your antifreeze? It would seem that (especially) well water would have a bunch of minerals in it that could only do evil in there..

 

[sweep]

So the conclusion I infer from all the above is that I'm good to go with the current antifreeze (Zerex heavy duty for diesel) and it should also be good for a couple years @<100hrs per year, and probably more, but two years should be fine.

Right?

And one more question: I bought the 50/50 mix, so didn't have to dilute, but does it make sense to use distilled water when you dilute your antifreeze? It would seem that (especially) well water would have a bunch of minerals in it that could only do evil in there..

Yep, you are good to go as to your first question. My neighbor bought a TN55 new in 2005 and it is still on it's original antifreeze so you and I are way ahead of things.

I have always read it's best to use distilled water instead of tap water which supposedly has a lot of lime?? in it but I spoke to a radiator shop owner at a Rotary meeting recently and he said to use "ionized"?? water instead of distilled? He was also the one that said never to use the chemical radiator flushes as the chemical in it remove the protective anodized coating the radiators have on them.

I never flush my radiator with a hose/tap water. I just drain the block and radiator and add new 50 distilled water/50 antifreeze and fw-15 conditioner. I figure the little I use the tractor and the frequent changes are doing more than needed.

The next change I will probabaly go with the diesel af instead of the fw-15

 

[Soundguy]

deionized water more likely that 'ionized'

soundguy

 

[SteveInMD]

If you are worried about the antifreeze it can easily be tested with test strips sold at auto parts stores or tractor dealers. The most important parameter to look at is pH. The pH should remain stable. Test it every 6 months to 1 year. If the pH starts to drop it's time for a change. If you really want to push the limit you can wait until it gets down to 8 and then change it. You will like get many years out of it.