Egon
Epic Contributor
Yup!
If in doubt take a piece of asphalt and drop it in some diesel fuel. See what happens.:thumbsup:
Asphalt Millings Driveway Site Visit Needed
- Thread starter tremartin
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Yup!
If in doubt take a piece of asphalt and drop it in some diesel fuel. See what happens.:thumbsup:
Robert_in_NY
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Yup!
If in doubt take a piece of asphalt and drop it in some diesel fuel. See what happens.:thumbsup:
Good to know. I had no reason to try it but will make sure I keep my diesel tanks away from any millings.
olds67
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I had a company quote spreading my 800+ feet of drive with asphalt millings a few years back and if I remember correctly it was in the 5k to 6k range. Not sure what the split between labor and material was. Didn't go with it because of the expense and my gravel base is in great shape. I wanted the look of asphalt but I too was concerned with plowing in the winter. I live in Michigan as well. Interested in this thread to see how it holds up in the colder climates. It is a 1/3 the cost of new asphalt.
I have the asphault millings on top of my gravel drive. It's best done in the middle of the hot summer. Rake it smooth, then follow up with a heavy lawn roller or drive backwards with the bucket down and lip level. In hot weather, it can be pasted together and stays put. Benefits to me were a very much quieter driveway, no more dust, and no more raking it back onto the main drag. Its a bit softer at first and does eventually revert back to plain stone.
But, no more migration of gravel onto the grass shoulders.
In winter, I just drive on it a few times with snow on it. This gives my front low something to ride on.
Great stuff. The guy who delivered it made 1 pass with his tailgain chained open slighly. I really did not need to do a thing other than pack it slightly with the roller. $300 for 10 yards as I recall.
But, no more migration of gravel onto the grass shoulders.
In winter, I just drive on it a few times with snow on it. This gives my front low something to ride on.
Great stuff. The guy who delivered it made 1 pass with his tailgain chained open slighly. I really did not need to do a thing other than pack it slightly with the roller. $300 for 10 yards as I recall.
olds67
Bronze Member
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I didn't even think about elimination of dust. That and holding the rocks in the drive sounds worth it to me. I wonder if replacing the wearbar on my backblade with a rubber strip would prevent removing it. I was looking into that for the gravel for this winter.
Egon
Epic Contributor
Also remember that not all millings are created equal. The amount of asphalt contained may differ significantly.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Also remember that not all millings are created equal. The amount of asphalt contained may differ significantly.
New Asphalt needs to be 2 inches thick to hold up to normal traffic. I'm sure that a driveway can be thinner, but with all road materials, thinner means weaker.
Eddie
I use 6-8" of heavy shale first then 4-5" of millings, give em a quick roll and you have a road. I just put in 300' of road and a parking area for some of my trailers and machines using this method. Nice to not drag mud out on the road any more and it handles heavy loads with no problem.
We had a 700 foot driveway done last July. We re-routed the driveway to make it less steep (did you know that Toyota thinks the electonic skid control is working properly when it cuts power to a car to the point it stops and slides backwards? A car that is not in motion can't skid.) We paid for plans that included water control and got three bids that ranged from $15 to $30K. (Took the advice of the engineer and went with the 15K bid because he owned a gravel pit and was available in our time slot) We have a great base and 5 to 8 inches of millings from a nearby state road. It was compacted with a vibrating roller. Initially we were told to drive side, middle and side to pack it down evenly, which we did. During the winter the loose filings deposited in the snow banks. The only soft spot is by a small trench where the water from the hillside drains into. This was made worse by a large delivery truck that backed up the driveway backwards and went too near that edge (despite me specifically saying not to). The driveway is very solid. It is not a smooth finish, but is less steep and certainly smoother than the old nearby gravel driveway. I do notice that the entry to the garage is settled/worn lower than it was originally and I may have to build that up early next summer.
tlbuser
Veteran Member
Maybe the part you missed about igniting the diesel to melt the asphalt. Reheating the millings will create a tighter pack. Remember also that there are two types of millings, ground and reground. Typically, if it comes straight off the roadway (ground) it may (probably will) contain large chunks. If it comes from the asphalt plant it is usually run though a second grind to get a smaller fines for reintroduction to the new mix.
To the OP, Tar and chip, if available in your area may be more appealing. If done correctly, it is durable and very attractive. You typically will have a choice of topcoat (stone) color.
Tar and Chip Driveway - YouTube