KK disc leaves hiil in the middle

[gwdixon]

I agree on the drag finish for a nice flat seedbed. Mine is a piece of 5" drill pipe with an old harrow welded behind it and set just to lightly scrape the soil. The final portion of the implement is a 3/4" heavy chain that gives the final smoothing touch.

To drive in any remaining rocks a cultipacker is used. In the spring the mower has far few "encounters of the rocky kind".

 

[MMagis]

Hmmm....if the top link is too short and the front gangs are doing the work then the soil will be thrown away from the middle and the rears won't be able to throw enough back to approximate level. The result is a trench.

If the top link is too long then the rears will be throwing more soil back than the fronts are throwing out. The result is a ridge down the middle.

I suppose not all disks are the same. On mine, the fronts will leave a hill in the center. I adjust my top link so the rear gangs just clear the ground by a few inches when I pick the disk up all the way. That's just what works for me, and it leaves a perfecly level field, no finishing required.

 

[gwdixon]

I suppose not all disks are the same. On mine, the fronts will leave a hill in the center. I adjust my top link so the rear gangs just clear the ground by a few inches when I pick the disk up all the way. That's just what works for me, and it leaves a perfecly level field, no finishing required.

And....that is the only valid measure. What works is what should be done.

I'm sure the OP will get it to his liking with some more experimentation.

 

[gwdixon]

The local Tractor Supply had a Countywide disc (King Kutter) like the OP has. The rear gangs are just slightly offset from the fronts.

The fronts have at least a 6" gap between them at about 4" above ground level.

Thus, a 6" un-disced strip would go down the middle of the pass and the rear gangs would throw dirt on top of that. A mound down the middle would be inevitable at higher speeds.

My only recommendation, since the gangs are not adjustable, is to travel much slower so the soil is only turned instead of thrown. Maybe others have a different idea.

 

[sweettractors]

The local Tractor Supply had a Countywide disc (King Kutter) like the OP has. The rear gangs are just slightly offset from the fronts.

The fronts have at least a 6" gap between them at about 4" above ground level.

Thus, a 6" un-disced strip would go down the middle of the pass and the rear gangs would throw dirt on top of that. A mound down the middle would be inevitable at higher speeds.

My only recommendation, since the gangs are not adjustable, is to travel much slower so the soil is only turned instead of thrown. Maybe others have a different idea.

You are going to have the small uncut area in the center with a disc harrow, unless, you "double disc". All that means is that you actually step over 1/2 the width you just cut or disc in both directions. Ken Sweet

 

[SandburRanch]

It isn't uncommon for a tandem disc to have a 10" sweep mounted on a cultivator shank located in the center of the frame to take care of the ridge.

 

[sweettractors]

It isn't uncommon for a tandem disc to have a 10" sweep mounted on a cultivator shank located in the center of the frame to take care of the ridge.

If it was mounted on a spring loaded shank, it would also work in the rock and roots fine. Ken Sweet

 

[KennyG]

As usual, I'm completely out of date and probably don't understand how this disk works, but in the old days of non-3 point disks, adjusting to eliminate ridges or unturned space was an expected farmer skill. On those disks you could adjust the angle of disk axles and the front/back tilt to leave a completely smooth surface. We did use harrows sometimes to break up the last clods because it was quick but if a neighbor saw you leaving a ridge, you were in for some ribbing.

 

[wolc123]

I still use a couple of those old "drag-discs" and it sure is nice to leave an almost perfectly level field. That said though, some of them were better than others. The old Bissels cut about as good as any but were difficult to control the "ridgeing". The JD I use on my home farm is the best I have ever used when it comes to both how it cuts and how level it leaves the field. Many folks know that I believe the 3-point disc to be about the most over-rated farm implement. Harry Ferguson should have left his hands off that tool. If you can do it, stick with a tiller (for small areas), or a pull-type disc for larger tracts. I have yet to see a 3-point that I thought was worth the steel it was made from. Some of us got better things to do than hook up a second implement to clean up the mess left by the previous.

 

[MMagis]

Some of us got better things to do than hook up a second implement to clean up the mess left by the previous.

And some of us know how to use our equipment properly to do things right the first time.