Beginner welder recs

   / Beginner welder recs #61  
I know this is jumping into a pissing match but as far as Made in the USA goes, it doesn't mean much anymore. There have been a number of reductions in what is "required" to be allowed to use that label. Also, an importer based in the US is keeping money here as well.

The imported welder that I can afford is still worth more to me than the Miller that I can't afford.
 
   / Beginner welder recs #62  
The imported welder that I can afford is still worth more to me than the Miller that I can't afford.

That's a good point, Miller IS expensive.. no question. In fact, they're in the process of pricing themselves out of the casual user market, which 90% of us fit into.

My budget is pretty restrictive, primarily because I don't like spending any more than I absolutely have to. Most would call me cheap, my wife just shakes her head. I probably would have choked at the price of the Miller 180, but as I mentioned earlier, it was gratis.

Where I draw the line is if I think I may have to buy something twice. If it's something non-critical and it has a decent warranty, I'll take a chance and buy a less-than-top-shelf item. Stuff that I know will be used hard over a long period (chainsaws for example) usually end up being high end choices.

My welders might get a couple of hours use every month, and none of that is steady use. I'd dearly love to have a 252 Mig, and a Tig machine, and a plasma cutter, the list goes on. The deciding factor is always, "How much will I use it, and can I justify the expense?"

Those that think quality welds are hard to get using migs, or that stick welders are antiquated, or that inverters are unreliable, usually have a bad experience to draw that conclusion from. Or they may have just listened to the same tune over and over. Popular opinion is just that, whether justified or not.

Sean
 
   / Beginner welder recs #63  
The problem with self taught MIG welding is often the excessive focus on pretty welds rather than penetration. As you point out, any weld can be cleaned up to look pretty but poor penetration cannot be fixed with a grinder. .

You're right--the critical time to use your grinder is BEFORE you run the weld bead to produce a decent bevel and clean up the mill scale.
 
   / Beginner welder recs
  • Thread Starter
#64  
So to complicate things farther, i checked my elect panel in the shop and it has 2 220V circuits but with only 40A breakers- enough to run the Everlast PA200 but not enough to handle the other AC/DC units out there...I am pretty sure I could upgrade one of the 220V circuits to a 50A but it would just be more added expense...but it would not be hard I could just run the new wire where the one of the 40A circuits are (about 1 foot from the panel...)
 
   / Beginner welder recs #65  
I wouldn't complain about a 40amp 220 circuit. Unless you are doing production welds on greater than half inch steel that really should not be a limitation, especially with an inverter based machine.
 
   / Beginner welder recs #66  
Miller employees 1300+ here with full benefits, 11 holidays, shutdown over christmas, training allowances, good pay, and next to no employee turnover. To me , theyre doing something right.

How many does everlast employ in their warehouse? 6 on forklifts and a couple to answer the phone? (exaggeration i know) Are they Part timers or full time with benefits?

I see alot of people saying "I cant afford miller, so i buy whatever". Personally i dont need instant gratification, when i want something i save to get it. Its not like a blue machine (particularly a stick welder) is that much more than an import everlast... a few hundred dollars at most. We've sold our manufacturing base down the river for instant gratification.
 
   / Beginner welder recs #67  
So to complicate things farther, i checked my elect panel in the shop and it has 2 220V circuits but with only 40A breakers- enough to run the Everlast PA200 but not enough to handle the other AC/DC units out there...I am pretty sure I could upgrade one of the 220V circuits to a 50A but it would just be more added expense...but it would not be hard I could just run the new wire where the one of the 40A circuits are (about 1 foot from the panel...)

You probably wont have any issues with a thunderbolt on 40A. Id just run wire rated for 50A to the plug (since you have to wire it anyways). If you have issues with being underfused, upgrade the breaker at a later date.
 
   / Beginner welder recs #68  
Unfortunately, these threads always veer off of what makes a good welder for a beginner and ends up being a debate about what's imported and what's not. It gets old.

Buy what will suit your needs and what your pocketbook will allow.

Ian
 
   / Beginner welder recs
  • Thread Starter
#69  
I wouldn't complain about a 40amp 220 circuit. Unless you are doing production welds on greater than half inch steel that really should not be a limitation, especially with an inverter based machine.

Yeah, I thought about just trying it to see if it would pop the breakers (Hobart AC/DC welder pulls max of 47.5A at 220V) My understanding is that if the circuit is overloaded, it will pop the breaker, correct?
 
   / Beginner welder recs #70  
Yeah, I thought about just trying it to see if it would pop the breakers (Hobart AC/DC welder pulls max of 47.5A at 220V) My understanding is that if the circuit is overloaded, it will pop the breaker, correct?

yes it will pop the breaker. But you will never see max draw on that machine. youll likely be in the 90-130A sweet spot.
 

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