How much tractor is enough?

[JDTank]

The tractor would not be the only means of cutting grass, I have a riding mower and 3 Honda walk behinds as well.

I just wanted the MMM for times when I don't have time to cut, and it gets to long to bag (it grows VERY fast here, you have to cut everything once a week, sometimes every 5 days) With a MMM on a tractor I know I will have enough power to quickly cut the grass and spit it out.

I can understand not purchasing a backhoe from a financial point of view, but from sheer fun of having one, that can't be beat! We all have a little "kid" inside of us who still loves to play in the sandbox. I think I have enough projects coming that to rent a machine or pay someone would cost me about half of the cost of the backhoe. For another $3,000, I can have my own, and do it whenever I want to, my schedule, my way. We have hired a few different people to do backhoe work for us, and 8 times out of 10 they do not do the work as I asked them to, they leave a mess, or just plain take to long and charge for it.

I stumbled upon the new 270 backhoe on the forums last night, and I think that has sold me on the 2520. Obviously I will have to wait for one, as I see no one has any idea of when it is coming to market. My main hesitation for a 2520 was that it required a lot of work to mount and remove the backhoe, especially for someone like me who needs a MMM in place or ready to go on almost all of the time. If they truly did fix all of those problems, I will be impressed.

I also noticed, they upped the lift capacity on the 200CX loaders, to over 1,000 pounds now. Pretty impressive when you think a small machine like that can lift over half of it's own weight.

I had no idea the 2520 was so capable in such a compact package, with the money saved on going with it over the 3520, that pays for the other half of the backhoe itself.

 

[JDTank]

Anyone here noticed prices for us Canadians is through the roof?

Just got back from John Deere, price for a 2520 with FEL, $18,988!!! That INCLUDES $1,000 off if you buy a second implement. That seems quite overpriced. There are no other dealers around for hundreds of miles so they have no competition.

Also, 62 inch drive over deck, $2,998, so basically 3 grand. Does this not seem high?

 

[fountain42]

JDTank yes snow in the face was the only issue. Plus I wanted to sell this house an property an move to town but wife was againist it so the topic of a new tractor was her idea? I guess I'll be staying put for a while. The 2520 is more than enough tractor for most if not all your jobs, just may take a little while longer but who will argue with seat time, not me

 

[hizoot]

That seems high to me. I bought my 2520 11 months ago for 21,200.00 total including backhoe and 60" loader bucket,delivered. I believe the tractor and loader was around 15300.00. The backhoe is pretty good and I've seen them take out some huge trees on this forum. It just takes time and patience on the big stuff. I have the 46 BH and it usually takes about 15 minutes to install/take-off. I hear the new one will be great. I don't believe deere increased the loader capability...they have historically been conservative in ratings and just started rating them closer to true capacity. I have attached a picture of my 2520 lifting right at 1100 lbs (shipping label stated) and it lifted it full height.

 

[Glen Watkins]

hizoot what are you crazy or something to pick that big load without a backstop on your forks?

 

[JDTank]

Downside is the dealer did not seem to have a interest in budging. They are definitely aware of the fact that there is no other dealership even remotely close for them to compete with.

I will be waiting for the new backhoe I think. Now that I know it is coming, I would seriously kick myself if I ordered a 46 right now. I may still get everything else soon if I can get them to come down on price, there price is way to high.

Even on John Deeres website, when you "build your own" and you click US or Canadian pricing, it's automatically over $1,000 more for Canadian pricing!

 

[jenkinsph]

The tractor would not be the only means of cutting grass, I have a riding mower and 3 Honda walk behinds as well.

I just wanted the MMM for times when I don't have time to cut, and it gets to long to bag (it grows VERY fast here, you have to cut everything once a week, sometimes every 5 days) With a MMM on a tractor I know I will have enough power to quickly cut the grass and spit it out.

I can understand not purchasing a backhoe from a financial point of view, but from sheer fun of having one, that can't be beat! We all have a little "kid" inside of us who still loves to play in the sandbox. I think I have enough projects coming that to rent a machine or pay someone would cost me about half of the cost of the backhoe. For another $3,000, I can have my own, and do it whenever I want to, my schedule, my way. We have hired a few different people to do backhoe work for us, and 8 times out of 10 they do not do the work as I asked them to, they leave a mess, or just plain take to long and charge for it.

I stumbled upon the new 270 backhoe on the forums last night, and I think that has sold me on the 2520. Obviously I will have to wait for one, as I see no one has any idea of when it is coming to market. My main hesitation for a 2520 was that it required a lot of work to mount and remove the backhoe, especially for someone like me who needs a MMM in place or ready to go on almost all of the time. If they truly did fix all of those problems, I will be impressed.

I also noticed, they upped the lift capacity on the 200CX loaders, to over 1,000 pounds now. Pretty impressive when you think a small machine like that can lift over half of it's own weight.

I had no idea the 2520 was so capable in such a compact package, with the money saved on going with it over the 3520, that pays for the other half of the backhoe itself.

Good that you have riding and push mowers already. Justifying the backhoe, if you want one then get one, thats what I did. I also like stand alone mowers and backhoe loaders. I prefer not to have a fel on my tractors as it changes what is needed for ballast and their less compact. Yes, you can park the loader but then I would need to load up front weights, dont want to hassle with all of that each time.

This past summer 2520's were a good deal with discounted pricing, IIRC the 2720 has the discounts on implements currently and if you intended to mow quickly as you say I would consider the 2720 too.

Here in southern New Mexico I mow every Sunday morning, if I wait more than that it will get too tall. I would expect that 5 to 7 day periods between mowing is the norm. I have lived in some places in the deep south where you can almost see it grow. At any rate a mmm would work well for the semi lawn to smooth pasture areas. I would still use a light weight mower for the finished lawn areas around the house. My cheaper L130 does a good job for my lawn and being just a mower the deck is always in place ready to mow. when you buy an 8 in 1 tractor to handle the multi purpose jobs you do have to mount and dismount these attachments constantly.

 

[JDTank]

In all honesty, I don't have so many projects that I will be changing implements constantly. There will be times the tractor will sit for 3 weeks, maybe even a month without me touching it. This is another reason why I have told myself a 2520 is good enough, stepping into the 3000 series price range, to not use the tractor every week, seems a bit foolish.

I don't mind changing implements when the change over is quick, such as the quick park loaders, drive over decks, things like that. I plan on getting a rotary broom and a front blade, I know those involve about 20 minutes of work to change things, but even then, I don't mind. I am in no hurry to get any of these projects done and I intend to take my time and enjoy the tinkering as well as seat time equally. When I go out on the tractor I go out there for the entire day and just go leisurely.

Also, I wouldn't think I would need to add weights to the front for mowing with the mid mower. Any time I will have a rear implement on, the FEL will be on, I don't really have any tight areas, and the areas that are tight the 2520 is the perfect size for.

What valve options should I be ordering? I know power beyond for sure, give me future access to the BH, but what else? I don't want the independent deck lift, to many issues from what I hear, needing lots of adjustment to make it work right. So just route the dual mid SCV's to the rear right? I don't have a need for the diverter either.

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

Give this place a call and see if they are willing to deal.

johndeere tractor and hoe - Edmonton Farming Equipment For Sale - Kijiji Edmonton Canada.

 

[BethesdaEC]

In all honesty, I don't have so many projects that I will be changing implements constantly. There will be times the tractor will sit for 3 weeks, maybe even a month without me touching it. This is another reason why I have told myself a 2520 is good enough, stepping into the 3000 series price range, to not use the tractor every week, seems a bit foolish.

I don't mind changing implements when the change over is quick, such as the quick park loaders, drive over decks, things like that. I plan on getting a rotary broom and a front blade, I know those involve about 20 minutes of work to change things, but even then, I don't mind. I am in no hurry to get any of these projects done and I intend to take my time and enjoy the tinkering as well as seat time equally. When I go out on the tractor I go out there for the entire day and just go leisurely.

Also, I wouldn't think I would need to add weights to the front for mowing with the mid mower. Any time I will have a rear implement on, the FEL will be on, I don't really have any tight areas, and the areas that are tight the 2520 is the perfect size for.

What valve options should I be ordering? I know power beyond for sure, give me future access to the BH, but what else? I don't want the independent deck lift, to many issues from what I hear, needing lots of adjustment to make it work right. So just route the dual mid SCV's to the rear right? I don't have a need for the diverter either.

Definitely wait for the 270 BH if you intend to do a MMM. The 46 BH is basically incompatible with the MMM, the front BH brackets need to removed and install everytime you switch and the 270 is supposed to fix the problem.

You can always get the 2520 now and order the BH this spring when they become available.

 

[jenkinsph]

In all honesty, I don't have so many projects that I will be changing implements constantly. There will be times the tractor will sit for 3 weeks, maybe even a month without me touching it. This is another reason why I have told myself a 2520 is good enough, stepping into the 3000 series price range, to not use the tractor every week, seems a bit foolish.

I don't mind changing implements when the change over is quick, such as the quick park loaders, drive over decks, things like that. I plan on getting a rotary broom and a front blade, I know those involve about 20 minutes of work to change things, but even then, I don't mind. I am in no hurry to get any of these projects done and I intend to take my time and enjoy the tinkering as well as seat time equally. When I go out on the tractor I go out there for the entire day and just go leisurely.

Also, I wouldn't think I would need to add weights to the front for mowing with the mid mower. Any time I will have a rear implement on, the FEL will be on, I don't really have any tight areas, and the areas that are tight the 2520 is the perfect size for.

What valve options should I be ordering? I know power beyond for sure, give me future access to the BH, but what else? I don't want the independent deck lift, to many issues from what I hear, needing lots of adjustment to make it work right. So just route the dual mid SCV's to the rear right? I don't have a need for the diverter either.

Sorry for the confusion, did not imean that you will be changing the implements constantly, simply that my experience dictated that I have separate machines for the different tasks.

I never have extra weights front or back on my mower when cutting the lawn. I wan't it to be as light as possible. The front weights mentioned in my post above would be chosen where front ballasting was needed in a compact form, with heavy rear implements.



About the tractor, sounds like a 2520 will work for you, I agree to wait for the newer backhoe attachment. If it were me I would get R4 tires, power beyond, front and rear remote hydraulics and the attachments and implements you think you need the most.

 

[JDTank]

No worries jenkinsph, I didn't take it personally :laughing:

I agree completely about purchasing the backhoe at a later time. Given everyone knows the 270 is coming, any 46 BH's they have will probably be a hard sell. It's like buying a headache, and buying work, which makes zero sense.

I am really resisting 2 things about the 2000 series. For one, I am a big guy, 6 foot 3, size 14 feet, and 200 pounds. That operators station looks a little bit cramped. No tilt steering. The area surrounding the steering wheel and dash on the 3x20 series looks a lot nicer, and looks to have more room.

Number two, 3rd function hydraulics. A grapple is something I would have a lot of use for. We have a large variety of trees and plants on our property, all of which grow like weeds, and every year we have large piles of trimmings to move. A grapple would make this a quick and easy task that right now is done by hand.

Unfortunately the 3x20 series just looks to big to mow with a MMM.

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

Unfortunately the 3x20 series just looks to big to mow with a MMM.

Obviously I'm biased - been mowing with a 3320 / 72" MMM / R3 Turfs since 2008 and no real complaints. For me, any shortcomings related to mowing are more than offset by additional FEL & BH capacity / factory cab etc.

Originally had the JD 447 BH and now have Wallenstein. The On / Off is a lot easier with the Wallenstein and cylinder operation is much smoother as well.

Remember if you jump to the 3x20 you also get 3 range eHydro. There has been a lot of discussion regarding the pro's / con's of two range.

 

[JDTank]

Obviously I'm biased - been mowing with a 3320 / 72" MMM / R3 Turfs since 2008 and no real complaints. For me, any shortcomings related to mowing are more than offset by additional FEL & BH capacity / factory cab etc.

Originally had the JD 447 BH and now have Wallenstein. The On / Off is a lot easier with the Wallenstein and cylinder operation is much smoother as well.

Remember if you jump to the 3x20 you also get 3 range eHydro. There has been a lot of discussion regarding the pro's / con's of two range.

I guess the thing for me is, I don't really need that extra FEL capacity. There is only 2 times where it would come in handy, moving manure, and bags of bedding for the horses. The manure pile is only spread once every 6 months (2 big horses and a mini) We only get 1 skid of bedding every 6 months, so twice a year I could use the capacity, but that's about it.

Factory cab, I know I won't be able to afford. If I stumble upon a used one, then maybe, but I know brand new the cab option will be out of the cards.

3 range hydro is definitely something else I have thought about as well. Being limited to 2 ranges probably wouldn't bother me to much for my work, but of course, it is always nice to have that middle operating range.

Is there down pressure on the 3 point for the 3x20 series? Down pressure would be a definite plus for when a rear blade is involved. I have been borrowing the neighbours old 790 for trying to fix a muddy spot in our driveway to the barn, and since there is no down pressure, the blade just rides on the surface, and I have no way to dig it in. The 790 is a piece of junk in my opinion, shifting constantly for loader work, constantly clutching as well. Pretty weak machine IMO.

Better yet, does the 2520 or 2720 have down pressure?

 

[mguitas]

Obviously I'm biased - been mowing with a 3320 / 72" MMM / R3 Turfs since 2008 and no real complaints. For me, any shortcomings related to mowing are more than offset by additional FEL & BH capacity / factory cab etc.

Originally had the JD 447 BH and now have Wallenstein. The On / Off is a lot easier with the Wallenstein and cylinder operation is much smoother as well.

Remember if you jump to the 3x20 you also get 3 range eHydro. There has been a lot of discussion regarding the pro's / con's of two range.

How do you like your wallenstein backhoe?

 

[BethesdaEC]

I am really resisting 2 things about the 2000 series. For one, I am a big guy, 6 foot 3, size 14 feet, and 200 pounds. That operators station looks a little bit cramped. No tilt steering. The area surrounding the steering wheel and dash on the 3x20 series looks a lot nicer, and looks to have more room.

I am 6'1" and 230lbs and when I first looked at the 2520 I thought it was cramped too. But actually using it in the woods compared to sitting on it in the dealer and it is not nearly as cramped as you might first believe.

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

How do you like your wallenstein backhoe?

I think it is the same model as yours. Since getting the Wallenstein the only thing I've actually used it for was to bury my best fur friend Cinder. In some areas the fit / finish were better on the JD. As stated it seems more user friendly.

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

Is there down pressure on the 3 point for the 3x20 series?

Better yet, does the 2520 or 2720 have down pressure?

I don't think any of the JD CUT's have down pressure on the 3 pth

 

[JDTank]

I don't think any of the JD CUT's have down pressure on the 3 pth

Well that's a bummer.

It sure would be nice to have down pressure for a blade on the rear.

What options do I need to order so I can run a 54 inch blade on the front?

 

[BethesdaEC]

Well that's a bummer.

It sure would be nice to have down pressure for a blade on the rear.

What options do I need to order so I can run a 54 inch blade on the front?

I am not aware of of any modern tractors that have down force, when you have 500 lbs implement you don't need down pressure. With something like a box blade, a couple of twists on the top link will dramatically alter the biting characteristics.