New (To Me) Drill Press

[JB4310]

Somebody must of put that high quality chuck on there as an upgrade,
an import would not of had that when it came over.

I have not had any problem with my chuck, but I'd be happier with the jacobs

JB

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Somebody must of put that high quality chuck on there as an upgrade,
an import would not of had that when it came over.

I have not had any problem with my chuck, but I'd be happier with the jacobs

JB

When I was looking for info on mine I found a handful of this model for sale on auction sites and used tool dealer sites. Most of what I found were sold without the chuck. I wonder if they came standard like that.

This chuck is definately nice. It feels very solid.

 

[JB4310]

When I was looking for info on mine I found a handful of this model for sale on auction sites and used tool dealer sites. Most of what I found were sold without the chuck. I wonder if they came standard like that.

This chuck is definately nice. It feels very solid.

Now that I know it is interchangeable, I'm going to keep an eye out, I work for alot of estates that had machinists in the families, and I'm often there just before they clean out the basement for selling the house. I have free choice of many items and have found some decent stuff, especially along the machinist line.

JB

 

[Iplayfarmer]

So, I got to spend some quality time with my drill press last night, and I am VERY happy with the purchase. My only complaint is that this drill press is much taller than the last one. I have to stand on a stool to see the belts, etc. I may eventually build a stand for it that will drop it down a foot or so.

At one point last night I had the drill press in about 6 pieces on the bench as I gave it some detailed TLC. I used a lot of WD40 to clean and lubricate the pieces. I think I'll probably go back in a month or so and re-clean it to get the WD40 off and try to use some kind of dry lubricant to keep the grime to a minimum. There were a few spots where I decided to use some molybdenum grease (the rods that the motor slides on to adjust the belt tension). The end result is a much quieter drill press that moves smoothly.

I've included a few pictures of 3/4" holes I drilled in 7/16" steel. I drilled a 1/4" pilot hole and then went straight to the 3/4" bit. The belts kept slipping for the hole in the first picture. It was still a TON better than what I had before. I tightened the belts and put some belt dressing on. Then I drilled the second hole. Note the long, pretty shavings that came off for the second hole. That's what I'm looking for. I still got a little belt slippage, but not like I had on the first hole.

Does anyone have other suggestions for preventing belt slippage? Do I need to get new belts or different belts?

 

[JB4310]

Just saw a little drill press vise on our local craigslist.
I have one and it is a necessity IMO, with the vice holding the part safely, i leave the table loose to move around, makes it easy to get the center of whatever I'm drilling.

compond vise for drill press or miller

I have the moving bridgeport type thing under the vise in this picture but never tried it yet, just use the vise.

JB

 

[Baby Grand]

<snip>

Thanks to all who posted brand names of your similar machines. I may need to cross reference one of those machines to get parts. I'm pretty sure I'll need a recoil spring. I'm guessing that Baby Grand's Black & Decker will be the easiest to find. Baby Grand, what is the model number of your drill press?

<snip

Mine is a B&D 12 speed, cat# 1782.
Here's the parts list:

View attachment BD Drill Press.pdf

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Mine is a B&D 12 speed, cat# 1782.
Here's the parts list:

View attachment 238677

Many thanks.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Minor setback... Today when I flip the motor switch the motor sits and hums. If I start the spindle turning by hand it keeps going. I'm thinking start capacitor.

How specific are these start capacitors? Mine is spec'd as a 150uF 125VAC Electrolytic Capacitor for Motor Starting. Can I vary from that 150uF? If I get a 250VAC one is that good enough?

Sorry about the blurry picture. The camera must have been focusing on the background.

 

[k0ua]

Minor setback... Today when I flip the motor switch the motor sits and hums. If I start the spindle turning by hand it keeps going. I'm thinking start capacitor.

How specific are these start capacitors? Mine is spec'd as a 150uF 125VAC Electrolytic Capacitor for Motor Starting. Can I vary from that 150uF? If I get a 250VAC one is that good enough?

Sorry about the blurry picture. The camera must have been focusing on the background.

Yes a 250 volt rating is fine, it is just rated for a higher voltage, the 150 Microfarad is the "capacitance" of the capacitor, I doubt it is an electrolytic tho, most likely not. Do not put an 150uf 250 volt electrolytic that is polarized (designed for DC voltage, and has a + and - connection) on it as it will go bang pretty quick. Make sure that 250volt rating is for AC..this should be a cap you buy that is designed for motor starting. You can also test the existing cap with an analog ohm meter to get an idea if it is bad or not. This take some experience, but basically put it on the rx100 scale, and put the leads on the terminals, it may kick the meter but return to an open condition pretty quick. If it shows a constant resistance, it is defective. then reverse the leads it should kick the meter again towards 0 ohms and rapidly fall back towards infinity. repeat procedure a couple of time. It wont kick to 0 with 150Uf, but should head that direction rapidly by reversing the leads, as the ohmmeter charges the cap from its internal power. good luck.

James K0UA

 

[Iplayfarmer]

...I doubt it is an electrolytic tho,

It says electrolytic right on the capacitor. What does that even mean? Are there better capacitors that would give me better performance out of my motor?

Thanks for the heads up on DC vs. AC. I'll be sure to get an AC capacitor. Any ideas of a good online source?
Everything I've seen in a few minutes of looking has been in Taiwan or Hong Kong.