Wood burning shop heater

[cmhyland]

With the cost of the insulated pipe these days, I'd look at building a masonary chimney. Insulated pipe needs to be replaced every so often, 10 or 15 years I think...

 

[Boeing]

if it was a house with frequent fires I would. I'm an old guy so 15 years is plenty.

 

[brin]

ive got a stove like this

warms the 2 car garage nicely.

ive lined mine with 1" thick fire brick to extend the life of the iron.

Youll wnat a second damper control because the cheepy stove doesnt seal well.

its a real wood chuck and will SUCK down the wood, i burn a lot of cut up pallets.

cheep heat no matter how you look at it!

I used that same type stove in my 26' x 36' shop for years...I had another damper in the stove pipe going thru the roof...I worked great for me and did not use that much firewood...in fact it would get too hot most times even on the coldest days..

 

[Boeing]

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it. The local woodheater folks all suggested unanamously that I go thru the ROOF and NOT have bends in the pipe.....flow and soot issues. So, I put it at the end almost at the gable peak. Black pipe up to the trusses and about 5' of insulated (EXPENSIVE) pipe above that. (added cap too).
Another question, the stove has adjustable air inlets on the door to minimize the air allowed for combustion. Do I nead a DAMPER in the exhaust piping too? Would that cause BACK smoke and/or more soot buildup?

 

[brin]

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it. The local woodheater folks all suggested unanamously that I go thru the ROOF and NOT have bends in the pipe.....flow and soot issues. So, I put it at the end almost at the gable peak. Black pipe up to the trusses and about 5' of insulated (EXPENSIVE) pipe above that. (added cap too).
Another question, the stove has adjustable air inlets on the door to minimize the air allowed for combustion. Do I nead a DAMPER in the exhaust piping too? Would that cause BACK smoke and/or more soot buildup?

When I first started my fire I opened the stove pipe damper and left the door on the ash bin opened...the lowest little door and then as the fire took off I closed the stove pipe damper down except for about an inch and mine had little vents you could dial open or closed on the cast metal ash box...I left one of those holes open for draft...it worked good and the wood lasted longer like that. If you get smoke then open each damper a little until you find your sweet spot.

 

[kylebosch808]

Here's the wood stove I built. 2 feet wide 3 feet tall 4 feet deep. Fan forced on thermostat. Fill it once and it will heat for 20 hours.

 

[SandburRanch]

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it. The local woodheater folks all suggested unanamously that I go thru the ROOF and NOT have bends in the pipe.....flow and soot issues. So, I put it at the end almost at the gable peak. Black pipe up to the trusses and about 5' of insulated (EXPENSIVE) pipe above that. (added cap too).
Another question, the stove has adjustable air inlets on the door to minimize the air allowed for combustion. Do I nead a DAMPER in the exhaust piping too? Would that cause BACK smoke and/or more soot buildup?

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That's how I did my $15.00 auction stove. They seem to be less expensive in July at auctions with the outdoor ambient temp. 105°F.

Single wall up just beyond the ceiling joists and double wall after that. I like straight pipe up and out when possible. I've found the lower sections of the single wall black to deteriorate first from being hotter but I like heat being lost there in the shop. Pipe damper - mine was there originally and it has never been closed. I can get all the air control it needs down at the ash tray sliding air inlet. In the shop I want a good hot fire and have no reason for a damper.

I've even been known to do small blacksmith jobs right there where it's hottest.

 

[dixstir]

wood stove- I made mine from a 1000 gal lp tank cut in half put a 1/5 inch front on it with a large door built a jacket around it and a big fan rear top cut a 6-6 hole for draft and a draft fan in it when gets real cold out I drip a little oil its almost 40 years old .

 

[Boeing]

Got it cut thru the roof, black to rafters and insulated above. It heated GREAT. it was a windy night the first night and I got smoke in the building. The "stack" was just aft of the roof peak and at the gable end. The next day I cut cardboard and closed the gable vent (18"X18") AND went back to Lowes and added another 12" insulated pipe section. NO MORE SMOKE :thumbsup:
I DO have a question though....the stove is about 14" from the steel wall of the building, there are 2X4 "studs" and horzontal 2X4's that the steel sheeting is screwed onto about 14-16" from the rear of the stove AND the pipe going up. I noted that the wood gets quite warm but not "hot" to the touch.
Should I cover or wrap this wood with something? Suggestions?
This photo was BEFORE the extra 12" was added. The "box" just in front of the stack is a 15Watt solar panel that BARELY keeps my tractor charged. (maybe I need more panels?????)
Thanks

 

[Boeing]

Would someone please suggest a way to insulate the wood behind the stove...
See previous post. Thanks