I was going to start my own individual thread, but will just add everything here.
I originally was looking for something different then what I got, the 48" WK econ grapple. As I mentioned before, this on my 28hp tractor is a little overbuilt. The crossbars could be smaller and this has more gussets then I think is necessary.
I was going back and forth about setting up a diverter valve or use my rear remote, and ended up just moving my remote valve to the top of the right fender. It's easy to go back and forth between the FEL lever and remote valve and saves the complexity of more fittings, valves and wires. I used 3/8" hose from Discount Hose (PA), pre-measuring the amount needed with a garden hose. A Parker Pioneer Break-Away Clamp 5006-4-CS was bent and bolted up on the boom crossbrace to work as a bulkhead.
I've used the grapple for a few days cleaning up after trees that were bulldozed, cleaning some dropped branch areas, and tearing out some Hemlocks that were over grown. And lately have been using it for transporting cut Christmas trees.
I set this up on my Ford 1710 using a Long QA adapter. One of the issues that has been coming up is loose fitment to the QAs, but I don't see that as an issue here. The top brackets fit up fine and the only time I have a little play at the bottom pins is when I curl backwards all the way, and then the 1/4" pin play shows up.
In some ways I need more of a root rake as the gussets on the front teeth act like a solid blade with the fibrous roots of hemlocks or scotch pine, defeating the ability to shed soil between the tines. I doesn't help that the soil is moist right now either.
With Christmas tree selling time here, I removed the upper grapple to carry the trees a little easier. With the top jaw it's a little harder to get trees onto the lower teeth, and customers are not going to be thrilled seeing their tree clamped down on.
With the top grapple off I've also used it to dig out some 12-14' hemlocks. Not an easy task for a little 1710 and the reduced weight without the top jaw gives me a little more hydraulic lifting force.
With the factory setup you have to unbolt the jaw at three points, pull the cylinder retaining pin clip and detach the hydraulic QCs. This is actually easy by itself, but I've ordered pins to take the place of the bolts so it's even easier. Since the bolts also act as the pivots on this economy grade grapple, the changeover to pins will relive the threads of the bolts from acting as the pivot points. These are not greased and in this operation I see no need to do so.
In the future I may reduce or eliminate the gussets at the front teeth. Maybe in rocky soil or with a 50hp tractor they would be needed more, but if they would bend they could be easily straightened.
Up at the top jaw I also see no need for the outer jaw gussets. That little cylinder is never going to generate that much force, and the outer gussets prevent the top grapple from curling in more to secure your load.
So far this has been a good strong unit and I could not find any issues with the welds, and I'm cert'd to teach welding.