roller bearing question - cups and cones

[HCJtractor]

I am restoring an old planter. I have disassembled the coulters and removed the two roller bearings and seal, and these are still available. My question is do I also need to replace the bearing cups? They appear to be smooth and not pitted. They are obviously still seated in the cast iron hub. Do you only replace the cups when they are bad or do you do this routinely every time you replace the bearing cones? And if you do replace them, how do you get them out of the hub and how do you press them back in? I believe that I can still re-use the old ones and just leave them alone, but just wanted to make sure.

Also is there a trick to pressing in the new seals or do I just carefully tap them in, maybe using a wood block? Thanks. I have never done bearings before.

 

[KYErik]

If the bearings were cheap and perfectly match the taper of the cups (races), I'd just leave the originals in place and use them. You can always replace them at a later time if you see that the bearings wear out fast.

If this was a trailer axle and was to be used on public roads, I'd say that you should replace everything. You can remove the races (cups) with a hammer and flat punch working them in or out by using a circular pattern while striking them. A dremmel tool grinding bit can be sued to remove excess rust that may keep the race from sliding out.

 

[oldmech]

Hi! Shure The best is replace cup with bearing. Sometimes not very easy to remove. Heat ,punch with big hammer. But if cup look not very used. you can take a chance. For replace cup and seal . I put them in a freezer for 2-3 hours before. The cold make them a little bit smaller and fit better. Be gentle with seal You can use a small hammer and hard wood block You tap around 2-3 turns. Dont forget roller bearing must be run or adjust with a light pressure on the cup. Good luck ! Oldmech

 

[KubotaSam]

If you do not replace the cup, the bearing will not last as long as it should. I guess it just depends on how much you are going to use it. If it were me I would do the job once and replace the cup and bearing.

 

[HCJtractor]

THis planter will be used only several times a year and will plant only a few acres, so the "mileage" will be very minimal. Since this thing is 60 years old and every part I try to remove is a major undertaking, i am afraid if I start hammering on this to remove the cup, I may open a can of worms. I think I will see how the new bearings feel and if they seem smooth, I will go with the old cups. Even with the old bearings sitting outside unused for 40 years, the grease was still good and there was no corrosion inside. Thanks for the replies.

 

[MF 1532]

I was always taught to change cup and cone together , so they will wear together . Most of my customers buy the race and the bearing , but a few don't . That is why I get around a truck / trailer a.s.a.p. when passing . I have seen some bad things happen on the heavy duty side . Of course your situation isn't a safety issue like the above mentioned is .

 

[rcurrie]

Cups and cones should be replaced at the same time. To get a cup or race out that you can not hit the back with a punch and hammer you can weld a bead around the inside of the race, let it cool and it should shrink enough to fall out or pull out with a seal pick.

 

[boomer1025]

I am restoring an old planter. I have disassembled the coulters and removed the two roller bearings and seal, and these are still available. My question is do I also need to replace the bearing cups? They appear to be smooth and not pitted. They are obviously still seated in the cast iron hub. Do you only replace the cups when they are bad or do you do this routinely every time you replace the bearing cones? And if you do replace them, how do you get them out of the hub and how do you press them back in? I believe that I can still re-use the old ones and just leave them alone, but just wanted to make sure.

Also is there a trick to pressing in the new seals or do I just carefully tap them in, maybe using a wood block? Thanks. I have never done bearings before.

Are the bearings pitted ?? If they aren't, pack them with new grease and reuse them, replace the seals.

 

[puckgrinder85]

I'd say just replace the bearings if you feel they are fine, obviously the wheels arent going to spinning a whole lot, an OTR truck or something, yea, everything would be replaced.

 

[mpham]

Low speed,low impact use. I would reuse if not pitted or replace bearings only.
I would clean and inspect for pitting. If they look good and turn fine I would repack and reinstall.

 

[KWentling]

Cups and cones should be replaced at the same time. To get a cup or race out that you can not hit the back with a punch and hammer you can weld a bead around the inside of the race, let it cool and it should shrink enough to fall out or pull out with a seal pick.

+1 Do it all the time where I work.

Kim

 

[Johnp33]

Cups and cones should be replaced at the same time. To get a cup or race out that you can not hit the back with a punch and hammer you can weld a bead around the inside of the race, let it cool and it should shrink enough to fall out or pull out with a seal pick.

Do it right the first time, many hubs even if you have access welding is the preferred method to get the cups out, without damaging the hub, or axle housing.
Trying to take short cuts, is a very costly way to go to often.

 

[RickB]

Do it right the first time, many hubs even if you have access welding is the preferred method to get the cups out, without damaging the hub, or axle housing.
Trying to take short cuts, is a very costly way to go to often.

There is a point where the level of usage and cost of 'doing it right' dictate that "good enough" can be, at times, good enough. New bearing cones and serviceable original cups in vintage planter wheels that will probably see limited use will likely last indefinitely. It would be a shame if the OP cracked a hard-to-find hub while in the process of "doing it right".

 

[Johnp33]

If welding on the hub is going to break it then it is junk. I have done this on many aluminum hubs for class eights and found it causes less stress to the hub than pounding it out does. On a lot of cars and 1/2 ton pick-ups that is the only way you are going to get the bearing out. You only need a small bead with 3/32 to pull and cup loose. We are not talking big heat, I have done this on many sleeves and never had a problem.

 

[Willl]

Are the bearings pitted ?? If they aren't, pack them with new grease and reuse them, replace the seals.

I agree.

 

[RickB]

If welding on the hub is going to break it then it is junk. I have done this on many aluminum hubs for class eights and found it causes less stress to the hub than pounding it out does. On a lot of cars and 1/2 ton pick-ups that is the only way you are going to get the bearing out. You only need a small bead with 3/32 to pull and cup loose. We are not talking big heat, I have done this on many sleeves and never had a problem.

The point that is being missed here is that we are not talking about a Class 8 truck or F1 race car. It is always easy to spend somebody else's money and/or extrapolate what would be sound advise in many instances to a situation where identical procedures are simply overkill. The darn bearings would probably survive whatever use the planter will EVER get by simply cleaning, repacking, and properly adjusting what is there, along with new seals. New cones are a great idea, cups may or may not be necessary. If they are cheap, it makes sense. If they are oddball and expensive, maybe the old ones will outlast the machine.

 

[cowski]

if the cups are good reuse them.if the bearings are good use them.repack them and replace the seals .then you should be good to go.they could out last the new made in china bearings they sell now.

 

[greasemonkeyok]

If you don't have a press to install the race, then find a socket that is small enough to slide freely into the empty hub, but large enough to come close to the outer edge of the race. Then use a brass hammer to tap the race in using the socket. Be sure to watch carefully to insure that it is going in straight.

I use the freezer method also, but worry about condensation getting trapped between the hub and race.

 

[SPYDERLK]

There is a point where the level of usage and cost of 'doing it right' dictate that "good enough" can be, at times, good enough. New bearing cones and serviceable original cups in vintage planter wheels that will probably see limited use will likely last indefinitely. It would be a shame if the OP cracked a hard-to-find hub while in the process of "doing it right".

Yaa-y. :thumbsup: