John Deere 110 vs Kubota M59

[AKfish]

I was thinking what would you recommend as the best size for behind the 110? Would you say 7 foot is a good size? Also iMatch. What's your recommendation on that? I don't know if the back blade I have now is iMatch compatible but it's a BB2084? How much is iMatch and is it worth it? Does the 110 even fit it?

I'm really trying to gather the cash and convince the boss on this but its been harder than I'd expected:laughing:



EDIT: I should add and ask if the TnT system would not allow me to have the iMatch. How about with taking the BH on and off and having to put the 3PH arms on would it not matter as much as I'd then put the iMatch on?

I have TnT with my 110. Also have the iMatch quick hitch. I reconfigured my 7' rear blade to be compatible with the iMatch hitch. My HD rototiller is iMatch compatible - either Cat I or Cat II. The iMatch hitch works just fine with the TnT.

You have to install the 3pt hardware (side links, top link, sway chains) each and every time you remove the backhoe - if you want to use the 3pt - whether or not you have the iMatch hitch.

For those attachments that are compatible - the iMatch is a great addition. But, of course there's quite a few more attachments that are NOT compatible; than are.

So, if you don't currently have a number of attachments that are compatible and want to hang onto them with the tractor upgrade... why bother to spend the extra $$?

AKfish

I think most 7' stuff is the best dimension for the 110, personally. Excepting a few implements... MD or HD rotary mower for example - 6' is a better sized unit. Or rear finish mower - probably go with an 8' with that attachment.

 

[jenkinsph]

I took a look at the BB42 series and the lowest I've seen one for is $1,900. Which is better - but it was in Oregon and shipping would double the nearly double the price. I was thinking what would you recommend as the best size for behind the 110? Would you say 7 foot is a good size? Also iMatch. What's your recommendation on that? I don't know if the back blade I have now is iMatch compatible but it's a BB2084? How much is iMatch and is it worth it? Does the 110 even fit it?

I'm really trying to gather the cash and convince the boss on this but its been harder than I'd expected:laughing:



EDIT: I should add and ask if the TnT system would not allow me to have the iMatch. How about with taking the BH on and off and having to put the 3PH arms on would it not matter as much as I'd then put the iMatch on?

I prefer the 7' boxblade as it covers your tracks fully. I have IMatch, TNT and telescopic link arms for both the 110 and 4520, wouldn't wan't to be without them. The boxblade is the only implement I haven't converted to IMatch yet. Telescopic links make hooking up to this implement alot easier, if I didn't have it I would have been forced to convert to IMatch. I should mention that I can convert the bb to IMatch just need to pick up the proper steel to do this.

As I mentioned earier, the 4520 and 110 have the same hitch, so hitch parts, TNT and IMatch are interchangeable.

Some alternatives you might consider, a landplane grader 7-8ft wide, use your grader blade, maybe a ballast box for weight while using the loader. Something else is a landscape rake very handy for cleanup work.

I do alot of forest to lawn conversion work, using the tlb and separate tractor I find the most common rear implements I use are the landscape rake, landplane grader, boxblade and 3pt harrow. Other things I use with less frequency would be the tillers, rearblade, seeders brush cutters. Just about everything in my signature will work with the 110, a few are used with the garden tractor.

 

[Martian]

I have TnT with my 110. Also have the iMatch quick hitch. I reconfigured my 7' rear blade to be compatible with the iMatch hitch. My HD rototiller is iMatch compatible - either Cat I or Cat II. The iMatch hitch works just fine with the TnT.

You have to install the 3pt hardware (side links, top link, sway chains) each and every time you remove the backhoe - if you want to use the 3pt - whether or not you have the iMatch hitch.

For those attachments that are compatible - the iMatch is a great addition. But, of course there's quite a few more attachments that are NOT compatible; than are.

So, if you don't currently have a number of attachments that are compatible and want to hang onto them with the tractor upgrade... why bother to spend the extra $$?

AKfish

I think most 7' stuff is the best dimension for the 110, personally. Excepting a few implements... MD or HD rotary mower for example - 6' is a better sized unit. Or rear finish mower - probably go with an 8' with that attachment.

I guess my question about the having to install the iMatch is more that I'd put the 3PH equipment on and then have to put the iMatch on to hook up my implement. My question is more is it easier to hook up the iMatch or the rear blade or box blade? I'd really only be using a box blade and the rear blade that I already have a lot. All the other attachments will be used at most once or twice a year as I don't have much of a need for them yet. I do believe that my back blade is iMatch compatible because it's fairly new (RB2084 I believe). Would it iMatch really be worth it with just two implements? I see how if I had a lot of attachments it would be nice but I don't know how valuable it would be with just two that you'd use a lot. How much is iMatch and how invaluable is it?

 

[jenkinsph]

The IMatch unit is about $300 and the parts for each implement are about $30. It doesn't matter how many implements you have as much as how often you will change or alternate between them. You may find yourself alternating between a landscape rake and a ballast box, the more frequently you do this the more you will benefit by having the IMatch. Unless you buy the telescopic links as an add on you will benefit by having the IMatch and make everthing you have compatible with it.

 

[Martian]

The IMatch unit is about $300 and the parts for each implement are about $30. It doesn't matter how many implements you have as much as how often you will change or alternate between them. You may find yourself alternating between a landscape rake and a ballast box, the more frequently you do this the more you will benefit by having the IMatch. Unless you buy the telescopic links as an add on you will benefit by having the IMatch and make everthing you have compatible with it.

Hmm. That's very tempting. I guess I will need another ballast box so I have one for both machines but how much are they running these days? Also from the ones I've seen you can't get the 1200 pounds Deere recommends. Is there any that do? These things sure as up quick!

 

[jenkinsph]

I don't have a ballast box, the bb covers that for me. Seems these ballast boxes are about $2-300 bucks. Basically you need about 1200 to 1500 lbs of counter weight that is compact and preferably I match compatible The hoe is an excellent counter weight (about 1600 lbs.) as long as you have room to use it.

What I typically did when I only had the 110 and 820 was to dig up all my stumps first, then take the hoe and front bucket off and change to forks and boxblade. Put the landscape rake on the 820. That combination will get the majority of the work done.

Now I mostly keep the 110 setup with the backhoe and swap the front bucket,forks and rock bucket as needed. The 4520 and 820 I use for the 3ph equipment. Usually the 4520 has the boxblade on it first then after roughing in the grade I switch over to the landplane grader. The 820 operates the landscape rake for most large jobs. Makes for very little time spent changing out implements. I could easily get by without the 820 but prefer to keep it running than to allow it to sit.

 

[AKfish]

Hmm. That's very tempting. I guess I will need another ballast box so I have one for both machines but how much are they running these days? Also from the ones I've seen you can't get the 1200 pounds Deere recommends. Is there any that do? These things sure as up quick!

IIRC - you can get the ballast box extension for the Cat I box and that will take you pretty close to the 1,250lb mark when filled with Portland cement.

jenkinsph comments regarding the quick hitch and compatible attachments is "spot on". The advantage of the iMatch really comes into play if you 1.) use several different attachments OFTEN and 2.) use them in sequence or in conjunction with one another and have to switch out OFTEN.

Saves time and hassle... and sometimes fingers and toes!

AKfish

 

[andrehoude]

It's still there, like it a lot but not going to purchase anything until spring as for the next 4 months it wouldn't make sense to purchase something new to just use it for snow plowing, unless the deal is just unbeatable - so I've been shopping around at other things so I know I get the most tractor that I need for the money.

As for the L45 I wasn't looking at it because of it coming out in ~2008 they are much more expensive than 110 and if I was going to spend the more money I would would go in the way of M59

As for a full size I've thought of that and keeping my tractor but it just wouldn't be as maneuverable in the woods as a hydrostatic transmission would offer. As jenkinsph said they are much more powerful and dig a lot deeper but I don't need "that much" power.

Has anyone any experience on an M59?

Heey I just bought a L 45 I paid 45 000 here in Canada nice machine and has lots of accessories on it I bought it in the fall because there was a way better deal all most 5000 $. Just because they want to get machines moving I also think that the L45 is more comparable with the110 Than the L45 if your looking for a new machine go with the L 45 the perfect mid-size machine for the wood but still very strong

 

[Martian]

IIRC - you can get the ballast box extension for the Cat I box and that will take you pretty close to the 1,250lb mark when filled with Portland cement.

jenkinsph comments regarding the quick hitch and compatible attachments is "spot on". The advantage of the iMatch really comes into play if you 1.) use several different attachments OFTEN and 2.) use them in sequence or in conjunction with one another and have to switch out OFTEN.

Saves time and hassle... and sometimes fingers and toes!

AKfish

What's the extension? Just like two ballast boxes put together? I assume cement is the norm for a ballast box. I've seen the people put the PVC pipe in for attachment holders and thought that would be a good idea. How much length does taking the BH off and putting a box blade or ballast make, is it much more maneuverable? I will have the BH on 80% of the time as what I'll be doing will be mostly removal. When I'm going to be grading it will be just that. I won't use the loader a whole lot when I'm grading and if so it will just be to move a dirt pile then level. It won't be maxing it out. I would still like proper ballast. I'd like to be able to just full the tires but Deere said no to that didn't they? Does a heavier box blade grade better than a light one - just wondering - I have no intention to get a piece of junk from northern tool.

I like the sounds of the iMatch but I'm not sure I would be swapping enough to justify it. I need to see how much I'll be using the 3ph to having the bh - even with the ballast being so much more I see me having it on a lot. I'm leaning toward a non hydraulic box blade just for the price I don't know if I can justify it. I would like it but I think I'll be looking for a used standard box blade that has a good amount of weight and is heavy duty - is there anything else I should look for?

Heey I just bought a L 45 I paid 45 000 here in Canada nice machine and has lots of accessories on it I bought it in the fall because there was a way better deal all most 5000 $. Just because they want to get machines moving I also think that the L45 is more comparable with the110 Than the L45 if your looking for a new machine go with the L 45 the perfect mid-size machine for the wood but still very strong

I want to get a 110 now for the same reason, figure there will be less competition and a better price. I was looking into the botas but with them coming out so recently I can't afford a good used and don't like the older ones at all so I'm looking at the 110.

 

[AKfish]

What's the extension? Just like two ballast boxes put together? I assume cement is the norm for a ballast box. I've seen the people put the PVC pipe in for attachment holders and thought that would be a good idea. How much length does taking the BH off and putting a box blade or ballast make, is it much more maneuverable? I will have the BH on 80% of the time as what I'll be doing will be mostly removal. When I'm going to be grading it will be just that. I won't use the loader a whole lot when I'm grading and if so it will just be to move a dirt pile then level. It won't be maxing it out. I would still like proper ballast. I'd like to be able to just full the tires but Deere said no to that didn't they? Does a heavier box blade grade better than a light one - just wondering - I have no intention to get a piece of junk from northern tool.

I like the sounds of the iMatch but I'm not sure I would be swapping enough to justify it. I need to see how much I'll be using the 3ph to having the bh - even with the ballast being so much more I see me having it on a lot. I'm leaning toward a non hydraulic box blade just for the price I don't know if I can justify it. I would like it but I think I'll be looking for a used standard box blade that has a good amount of weight and is heavy duty - is there anything else I should look for?

Yes, the extension bolts on top of the standard ballast box. Just taller - more space to fill - and HEAVIER!

The backhoe sits out there a long ways! Quite a bit farther than either a box blade or the ballast box. Gotta pay a bit more attention when that hoe is on the tractor. The cylinder rod for the bucket curl is a shiny, smooth "target" just waiting for a nick or gouge!

IMO - if you have a need for a box blade - and they are very handy to have... it's a better investment than a ballast box. You can dress up a ballast box - for shovels, rakes, axes and chains, straps - but it's the wrong tool for grading, leveling and maintaining trails and driveways! Plus they can do extra duty moving snow.

But... a good, HD box blade is expensive. Yes, the heavier ones do a better job - IMO.

Don't forget - proper ballasting saves your front drive from excessive wear and tear - as well as extends the life of your rear tires (always spinning when the rear end is too light).

AKfish