John Deere 110 vs Kubota M59

   / John Deere 110 vs Kubota M59 #141  
Wow, I guess the way you guys talk is that the BH being off offers a lot better maneuverability. I guess we'll have to see what happens but from the sounds I will obviously need a good ballast. I've been looking at the weights of a lot of BB's but the ones that aren't hydraulic are usually in the 5-800 pound range. Does anyone know how to add weight to a box blade or will I just have to find one that weighs the right amount?

On my TC35D the rear tires (17.5L - 24) are 75% filled which adds about 900 lbs. My Bush Hog MBX720 weighs in at 640 lbs. As Steve said, you'll need to get at least 1200 lbs back there to work the loader efficiently without the BH. I assume that you don't want your tires filled or wheel weights added because of the BH. You could add a rack for suitcase weights on a boxblade. Sometimes I'd like more weight than I already have. I toyed around with adding a rack for a water tank for breaking hardpack in the summer.
 
   / John Deere 110 vs Kubota M59 #142  
As far as pallet forks go, unless your lifting really light stuff, I would get dedicated forks for the SSQA. The 110 or the M59 can lift and transport a lot of weight...I think you will be bending something with the screw on variety.

-Mark
 
   / John Deere 110 vs Kubota M59 #143  
I don't think you would be satisfied with the screw-on forks.

I tried a screw-on trailer ball receiver from Payne's and it would not tighten down properly. I called Payne's and they said it was because the backhoe bucket steel was too thick. The forks use the same clamping method, and they will have the same problem.

A used set of Deere forks with the SSQA attachment was $600. They will hold more than the 110 can lift. You can see the forks and the load -- the clamp-on ones always have the bucket in the way and visibility is poor at best. You can get a lot of new forks with the SSQA in the $600 range. Get ones with a high enough rack in the back so a load can't spill over backwards and into your seat...

Keep your money in your pocket until you can save up for the real deal.
 
   / John Deere 110 vs Kubota M59
  • Thread Starter
#144  
I thought the screw ons might do bend the bucket but I just wanted to ask. I have a repo auction place near me and that stuff passes through all the time so I can pick some up there cheap.

RD Rancher,
Yes I will not be filling my tires as it will max out the rear axles with the BH attached or I would.

Call this idea crazy but how would it work if I had a ballast box with a 3PH attached to it and then hooked a box blade to it. Or is that just crazy talk?
 
   / John Deere 110 vs Kubota M59 #145  
I think it might end up being too long. Might affect top length adjustment?

One thing to keep in mind is that anything you "stack" on a boxblade will limit vision. Being able to see the blade for fine tuning your grade is important, as well as monitoring how much material is in the box. If you did use suitcase weights they could be mounted in the very center of the box so you could still see good when looking over your shoulder.
 
   / John Deere 110 vs Kubota M59
  • Thread Starter
#146  
I think it might end up being too long. Might affect top length adjustment?

One thing to keep in mind is that anything you "stack" on a boxblade will limit vision. Being able to see the blade for fine tuning your grade is important, as well as monitoring how much material is in the box. If you did use suitcase weights they could be mounted in the very center of the box so you could still see good when looking over your shoulder.

That is pretty well what I was thinking. I was afraid the length that the 3PH would be unable to lift/move/control it well. I was also thinking how I could add weight without covering the box blade so I couldn't see. It's looking more like just finding a heavy duty one would be the way to go.
 
   / John Deere 110 vs Kubota M59 #147  
I'm glad that this discussion got going since I've pretty much narrowed down my next machine to either the L45 or 110. I think that the M59 may be a bit much for what I do unless I keep my existing tractor for 3-point work. If I keep it I may just go with a fullsize hoe. Lots to think about.
 
   / John Deere 110 vs Kubota M59
  • Thread Starter
#148  
RDrancher said:
I'm glad that this discussion got going since I've pretty much narrowed down my next machine to either the L45 or 110. I think that the M59 may be a bit much for what I do unless I keep my existing tractor for 3-point work. If I keep it I may just go with a fullsize hoe. Lots to think about.

I've came from the same place. First I thought I wanted a full size, after looking at them I realized that a) they were way to big for what I wanted, b) I could just trade my 3120 in and get a nice newer 110 with a lot less hours than a 70s or 80s hoe. It sounds like you'd be purchasing new or a full size used though. Unless you have major work to do 110/L45 will do the job. I would be considering the L45 only of it weren't them just coming out and the used being so much more expensive than a good used 110. What will your main uses be for one?
 
   / John Deere 110 vs Kubota M59 #149  
I would be considering the L45 only of it weren't them just coming out and the used being so much more expensive than a good used 110. What will your main uses be for one?

The other thing I have to think about is the hydrostatic pedal. I've operated a few customers Kubotas while delivering round bales and I have to say I haven't liked the HST pedal setup much. Of course I haven't spent much time looking at Kubota's TLB's, so that could change.

I work for a lot of hobby horse folks and I'm trying to offer my customers more and more tractor services. Having a hoe adds a few more things that I can do without renting. I also do retaining walls and barn / shed slabs and foundations and have been picking up more clearing jobs as well.
 
   / John Deere 110 vs Kubota M59 #150  
MTM,
Can you budget $1000 for a good boxblade? If so then keep an eye out for a used bb from a 210 landscape loader.


Something else to keep in mind, moving full buckets of heavy materials will require the larger rear ballast as discussed above. Moving lighter loads of branches and small trees you could get by with a lighter implement on the rear.

By the time you dug up all the stumps and cleared the debris out of the way you should be able to find a deal on a boxblade. Don't really need it until you have cleared the area enough to be able to use it.


About the machine choices mentioned imo the 110, M59 and L45 are all good choices for this work. I prefer the Deere pedal arrangement, that is a personal choice.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

New/Unused 7ft 20 Drawer Stainless Steel Workbench (A51573)
New/Unused 7ft 20...
2014 CATERPILLAR CT6605 SBA 6X4 DUMP TRUCK (A51406)
2014 CATERPILLAR...
2016 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 3500 DUALLY (A52472)
2016 CHEVROLET...
2009 Ford F-550 4x4 11ft Flatbed Truck (A50323)
2009 Ford F-550...
2005 Mack CV713 Granite Truck, VIN # 1M2AG11C55M020965 (A51572)
2005 Mack CV713...
NEW Wolverine Skid Steer Bucket Root Rake Attachment 34'' (A53002)
NEW Wolverine Skid...
 
Top