Stick welding question

[deereman75]

I don't think I've ever run one of those, I'm gonna have to find someone who has one.

Or you could get one on craigslist for $100, try it, and resell it for $120.:laughing::thumbsup:

 

[Shield Arc]

You know sometimes I see them go pretty high on Craig's list! Seems as I've seen them in Costco for just a few hundred bucks.

 

[rankrank1]

You think that is hard, try to change the amps by 3 with this! :laughing:
View attachment 244177
Either too cold or too hot... Except for 3/32 6011, the 75 amp setting is spot on for that.

Well 1st off you will not be doing any tig since it is AC only machine - unless you add a DC convertor box. And I do agree that even if it were a an AC/DC machine then it would still not be the ideal choice for scratch start tig - but it is doable (see video below).

That said, In defense of the Lincoln tapped settings for newbies: The switch inherently picks the best comination of the primary and secondary windings within the transformer for optimum volt/amp curve automatically. No Hi/Lo type settings will ever be necessary and it is impossible to get this portion wrong. Supposedly each tapped setting was optimized for use for the common Lincoln rods so best results might be obtained by using Lincoln rods (although I always used any brand rod). Regardless with tapped settings you may have to adjust your travel speed to suit the amps being inputed instead of adjusting the amps to suit your travel speed. In short you personally adjust to the machine instead of adjusting the machine to you.

Another trick: Once you find a brand of rod that you like that works well for that setting you have on your welder then that is the brand that you go with for a given size and type. (Example: Lincoln 3/32 6011 will burn a little different than Hobart 6011 3/32 which may burn a little differnt yet as compared to say US Forge 3/32 6011). Sounds like you have already picked the brand that burns well at your available 75 amp setting for 3/32 6011. Now find the brand that works well with say 1/8" 6011 and a setting that you have on your welder and so forth.

Here is an old school AC225 with a home-made add on DC converter doing tig. (If you have an AC/DC to start with then you do not need the converter box).

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lV4tzg4zn0]Homemade Tig Welder - Tig Welding Old School with Scratch Start - YouTube[/ame]

 

[rankrank1]

Actually that is a Montgomery Wards machine. Seems as I remember reading in the brochure it was built by Lincoln....

FWIW: Century is the only manufacturer that I have ever seen use that unique amp adjuster slide lever . The Century welders were commonly rebadged as Montgomery Wards, Craftsmen, Dayton, other brands, etc.

Lincoln were also frequently rebadged as various house brands too, but usually kept the unique Lincoln adjuster dial as well as tomstone shape.

Lincoln did eventually buy Century and Century operated under the Lincoln umbrella for a few years before being pretty much phased out.

 

[Shield Arc]

FWIW: Century is the only manufacturer that I have ever seen use that unique amp adjuster slide lever . The Century welders were commonly rebadged as Montgomery Wards, Craftsmen, Dayton, other brands, etc.

You could very well be correct, it's been what oh around 37 years since I read that manual? And hey I'm one of those guys who only reads when all else fails! :laughing:

 

[deereman75]

Well 1st off you will not be doing any tig since it is AC only machine - unless you add a DC convertor box. And I do agree that even if it were a an AC/DC machine then it would still not be the ideal choice for scratch start tig - but it is doable (see video below).

That said, In defense of the Lincoln tapped settings for newbies: The switch inherently picks the best comination of the primary and secondary windings within the transformer for optimum volt/amp curve automatically. No Hi/Lo type settings will ever be necessary and it is impossible to get this portion wrong. Supposedly each tapped setting was optimized for use for the common Lincoln rods so best results might be obtained by using Lincoln rods (although I always used any brand rod). Regardless with tapped settings you may have to adjust your travel speed to suit the amps being inputed instead of adjusting the amps to suit your travel speed. In short you personally adjust to the machine instead of adjusting the machine to you.

Another trick: Once you find a brand of rod that you like that works well for that setting you have on your welder then that is the brand that you go with for a given size and type. (Example: Lincoln 3/32 6011 will burn a little different than Hobart 6011 3/32 which may burn a little differnt yet as compared to say US Forge 3/32 6011). Sounds like you have already picked the brand that burns well at your available 75 amp setting for 3/32 6011. Now find the brand that works well with say 1/8" 6011 and a setting that you have on your welder and so forth.

Here is an old school AC225 with a home-made add on DC converter doing tig. (If you have an AC/DC to start with then you do not need the converter box).

Homemade Tig Welder - Tig Welding Old School with Scratch Start - YouTube

I have seen that video a few times, neat to see, but not something I would do. The lincoln was great for me to learn on at first, because it was cheap, and you cant break it. I have to say the stepped settings, and ac output is getting to be a pain though. As I have said, I am planning on getting a heavy duty cc/cv inverter, and that will solve a lot of my problems.
#1 dc output
#2 infinatly adjustable output
#3 cc/cv output so I can hook up a wire feeder for a heavy duty mig
For those of you not familiar with the PowCon machines, here is a picture of one with a feeder.

 

[Shield Arc]

I never used one of those PowCons either. But years ago I was on a tunnel project, we ran engine drives that were placed on the street above us. But a good friend of mine was a heavy equipment mechanic that worked on the mole, and other machinery on the project. The company bought several PowCons for their shop. When the machines arrived my buddy laughed, said he'd burn it up by lunch. Mike told me for a solid week he tried his best to burn that machine up running dual shield! 2 years latter the machine was running just fine.:laughing:

 

[deereman75]

I never used one of those PowCons either. But years ago I was on a tunnel project, we ran engine drives that were placed on the street above us. But a good friend of mine was a heavy equipment mechanic that worked on the mole, and other machinery on the project. The company bought several PowCons for their shop. When the machines arrived my buddy laughed, said he'd burn it up by lunch. Mike told me for a solid week he tried his best to burn that machine up running dual shield! 2 years latter the machine was running just fine.:laughing:

Ya they are tough little machines. I have heard of a few that were used in mines, a welding supply got them as a trade in. When he opened them up, he found about 5 inches of mud in the bottom of each one. They all still worked like they were new. Try that with a new import!:laughing: A few people on weldingweb said the powcon machines have one of the nicest stick arcs there is.

 

[Shield Arc]

I know they were very popular in the 1980s. Are you going to buy one?

 

[Canada_CT230]

FWIW: Century is the only manufacturer that I have ever seen use that unique amp adjuster slide lever . The Century welders were commonly rebadged as Montgomery Wards, Craftsmen, Dayton, other brands, etc.

We figured my welder is a rebadged Century...under the Mastercraft name here in Canada sold by Canadian Tire (Auto Parts / Tool Store)