GRIPES about my TSG-50 Stump Grinder GRRRRR!!!!

   / GRIPES about my TSG-50 Stump Grinder GRRRRR!!!! #11  
Gordon is right on I believe. Once your through with your grinder do cycle all hydro controls and make sure there is no pressure on any thing that is hydro run. Then disconnect, just like FEL or Backhoe removal you can't have any pressure on equipment when hooking up.
DevilDog
Just to clarify... This is done with the tractor turn OFF. Ditto when connecting, tractor OFF, cycle all the valves so that any pressure is return to the tank.

EDIT: :ashamed: I really need to read the WHOLE thread before replying :p Oh, what the heck... it's funnier this way. :eek:
 
   / GRIPES about my TSG-50 Stump Grinder GRRRRR!!!! #12  
I am covered in hyd fluid from head to toe.
I probably need to burn my clothes.:mad:

I got so furious I could feel my stomach disintergrating.

Why you ask?

Simply because I could NOT get the HYD return line that raises and lowers the grinding head to connect. NOTHING I could do would relieve the pressure, I simply could NOT get it connected.:mur:

I tried popping the connector against the 3pt until I got a little squirt of fluid. Works with my grapple. No way. NOTHING would relieve the pressure.

My dealer told me to hook up the arms and then the hyd lines, and use the grinder wheel to stand up the frame until the top link lined up. I could not do that, so I got my wife to drive and I stood on the frame as she pulled forward at a creep until I cold hook up the top link.

Now I thought I could relieve the pressure.

NOPE.:mad:

NOTHING I tried until finally in desperate fit of rage I pressed the hyd connector agains the frame and used my body weight and got a huge splash of fluid. but still not enough to connect the line.:mur:

I had to hold the connector open until the ram for the grinder was ALL THE WAY DOWN and hanging before I could get the @#$%^ thing to connect.

I am not sure I have ever been that mad.
I know I've never worn that much hyd fluid.

There HAS TO BE A BETTER WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I am sure this is all because I am a silly n00b and making stupid mistakes, but good grief, it needs to make enough sense a reletively smart fella like myself can figure it out.

I have a meeting tonight, but I'm all ears if you have any ideas.

I have a second gripe, but I'll write it up tomorrow.

Good night TBN.
David


Moss, what brand is this?
I would like to get a stump grinder some day, so I wanted to get on this thread so I can watch the answers
 
   / GRIPES about my TSG-50 Stump Grinder GRRRRR!!!! #13  
Assuming it is something along this line :
WOODS TSG50 stump grinder for small tractors | eBay

Not sure what price you paid for yours , but in looking at the design , I am not real keen on it's operation . Although it does have a hyd. cyl. for some down pressure , I am thinking it compares to a 3 point post hole digger . For what the price on the one is that I listed above , I would of went a different , cheaper route such as this :

http://www.drpower.com/TwoStepModel...inder_9hp&p1Name=stumpgrinder&Page=stg_models

Use it for 6 months or less , don't like , return it .

Fred H.

P.S. Not bashing just not a fan of 3 point attachments like that . As you mentioned about adding weight , I had a borrowed 3 point post hole digger the same way , just glad I never bought one . I have the same scenario as you are describing but with my sub-frame mounted 757c backhoe . I have found though , that like others have alluded to , Releasing pressure before dis-connecting , supports so that it does not settle , ( that is the one that kept getting me , back-hoe kept settling in the ground thus building pressure until I built a pad ) , and the usual poke the darn fitting into something solid to release pressure all the while Ducking to avoid the spray .
 
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   / GRIPES about my TSG-50 Stump Grinder GRRRRR!!!! #14  
Temperature change can really build up a lot of pressure in the hoses, especially when the black hoses are out in direct sun on a warm(ish) day. I've had things I've parked, relieved all the pressure, then when I went to hook them up it was impossible. Came back in the evening when it was cool out and out of the sun and it hooked right up.

As such, I try to unhook things when it is warm and hook them back up when it is cool, as much as possible. Also storing it in the shade or inside helps too.
 
   / GRIPES about my TSG-50 Stump Grinder GRRRRR!!!!
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Moss, what brand is this?
I would like to get a stump grinder some day, so I wanted to get on this thread so I can watch the answers

Lilranch, it is a Woods. It is pretty good, I just want to make it better...

David
 
   / GRIPES about my TSG-50 Stump Grinder GRRRRR!!!! #16  
David are you doing alright? I haven't heard a report on your CT surgery's and how is the shoulder doing? Are you about fixed? or on sick list for a while yet?

James K0UA
 
   / GRIPES about my TSG-50 Stump Grinder GRRRRR!!!! #17  
David, is there any chance that a hydraulic top link would help out? Wondering if changing the angle of the unit would make any difference. I have no idea, :ashamed: just throwing that out there. :confused3:
 
   / GRIPES about my TSG-50 Stump Grinder GRRRRR!!!! #18  
Regarding gripe #1.....this is a general hydraulic situation that is not related strictly to the Woods grinder. I understand the way you set your grinder on it's pallet.....I put some wheels on my original woods pallet and do the same thing. Yes.....you can get a build up in hyraulic pressure due to changes in weather, etc. Usually its just a couple of fluid ounces that need to be bled....but it can and does happen to many of us. The solution: bleed the pressure off by cracking the fitting loose from the coupler. Problem over.

I can remember being really miffed at my grapple....until I remembered to loosen the QA fitting and remove the pressure.
 
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   / GRIPES about my TSG-50 Stump Grinder GRRRRR!!!! #19  
Gripe #2 about my TSG-50...

This thing is TOO LIGHT!

I have already complained about how ineffective it is as ballast, so that is not what I am specifically griping about.

Here is the deal... I was grinding a couple of the black walnut stumps that I need to remove from the pasture I am building (Horses arrive TOMORROW!). and the TSG-50 will go something like 16" deep, but I cannot get it to do even close to that. My method with hardwood stumps so far has been to make smaller cuts each pass, and only in the 'push' direction not the 'pull' on the swing.

The reason is the entire unit and the 3pt bounce around like mad on the 'pull' and when I get past a few inches depth, the frame and the 3pt raise up, the whole unit is destabilized and the tractor shakes and shimmies like a go-go dancer, and I get scared I'm gonna break something so I back off.

It seems to me the unit itself needs more weight to anchor it to the spot and allow the grinding head to stay in contact with the stump. but instead of the head going deeper, it raises the frame & 3pt up! Similarly, on the 'push' swing it feels like it is pushing against the tractor and the frame and it cuts much more smoothly, but if I cut on the 'pull' (which is what the manual says to do!) the frame twists, and it is like the only "anchor" is the 3pt arms and the hyd pressure pulling the ram closed.

I seems to me the frame of the grinder should sit solidly on the ground and be stable, and not twist and buck like an animal trying to escape a trap. I have only once, on a softwood Pawlonia tree, gotten it to grind down 10" or so below grade.

I am trying to think if I can add weight to the frame somehow to better anchor it to the ground (and be better ballast) If only I could add as little as 250 or 300 lbs somehow... I would think not only would I get better "ballast" use, but also I would get better grinder performance.

I have HUNDREDS of stumps to grind... And this is a very expensive attachment, I NEED it to work as best as possible.

Maybe yet again I am just a n00b and doing something wrong (it won't be the first nor the last time I am certain).

Thanks in advance,
David

I have primarilly ground pine stumps....and those are considerably softer wood than your walnut stumps. I have been able to grind my stumps to 10" or so below the ground without much difference in grinding heights - from above to below grade. I dont see where the depth would add to the problems you have with jumping. :confused:

Yep.....it is a light grinder.....and I too have got mine to "jumping" if I take too big of a cut or if I dont cut at an even rate. Slowing the feed rate or depth of cutting will typically get things under control again. My grinder seems to cut about the same in either direction....allthough I have been told and read that you should mostly cut with the right side of the grinder (sitting in the seat). I may take a 1/2 (?) cut on the return stroke.

I have considered adding some suitcase weights to the frame to keep things solidly attached to the ground.....but I don't experience excessive problems....likely due to the soft woods I primarilly grind. I am uncertain if the orientation of your frame plays a role in your difficulties. Maybe a call to Woods may provide some answers?

I can see where lots of hardwood stumps could be an issue with this grinder...largely due to its weight. I think it makes a good grinder for an occasional user but it may not be the right machine for hard use on a regular basis....especially if you feed it hard.

It's deffinately not a great ballast for your FEL....and I don't think it's been purported to be such. A ballast box or another heavy implement is best for this function. But then....adding weight as suggested below could help with your ballast issues too.

If I had the problems you describe with hardwood stumps.....I may consider adding 300 to 500 lbs of ballast to the frame. This ballast could be suitcase weights, cast iron, concrete, or possibly a liquid ballast(?) attached to the frame.

When you operate your grinder pay close attention to what is jumping up and down. If the main frame is jumping about.....then any ballast you can add is your freind. If it's loose hinge points - that's a whole other matter. (be sure to check these hinge connections....as they can shake loose after some operation.)
 
   / GRIPES about my TSG-50 Stump Grinder GRRRRR!!!! #20  
OH.....and I always oriente my 3 point linkage so that it does NOT allow for a couple of inches of float. The Deere linkage has a means to remove or add float to the draft links. ELIMINATE the float! :thumbsup:

Also if you have a couple of suitcase weights you might be able to hang them on the draft links on your tractor (?) NOt sure about clearance....it just occurred to me as I wrote the above.
 
 

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