Grading can a jd 3720 handle the land pride rb2596?

[greg_g]

Well, the choice of rear scraper blade width hinges greatly on what index angles are engineered into it. What you DON'T want is a blade that's too narrow to cover the tractor's wheel marks when it (the blade) is fully angled. The track on your 3120 is at least what - 60 inches ? How wide is the cutting swath of that 84" blade when you have it indexed to its max operating angle?

Counterpoint; wider than the track is definitely desired, but too wide is self-defeating. At some point the blade becomes too wide to swing around 180 degrees while mounted. The blade edge will hit a tire long before completing the 180 degree spin.

//greg//

 

[Rad1956]

Greg -- I don't know about Martin, but my 3720 is around 60 with r4s -- and I wanted to be able to angle the blade to move snow off our very long drive and cover the width of the tractor also.

 

[Martian]

I would say angled max it may 5 inches over. I usually don't have it maxed though and it may be 6-8 inches then. I works good for plowing snow, except I find I go off the paved drive and hit the grass tearing it up a little with it being so far over. Its the worst working in the woods though when you forget you have that extra length on and go through a couple narrow trees and come to a sudden halt.

 

[B58Hustler]

Rad, I have an RB3584 on a 3320. Before I traded my JD5200 I swapped its blade (RB3596) to the 3320 and was not pleased at all. Grading a gravel driveway needed too much jacking around with the position control because the blade just collected too much material. Also the extra length made the blade in the woods' trails nick a number of tree trunks. (No problem with the 84"). Also beware of that long blade turned 180 degrees when you back up.
More leverage to torque something on the 3 point hitch. The dealer indicated a 3320 with a 96" had broken the sway chain/plate mounting plate on the axle, after catching the corner of a buried stone while angled.

Cutting 6" off each side might be an answer but you may find that the cutting edge retaining bolt(s) on the outside ends will go also. That means redrilling new holes in both the cutting edge and the blade within 4-6 inches of the new ends to secure the cutting edge.

Good luck with whatever you choose to do.

 

[AKfish]

I really think you'll end up pretty frustrated with that big of a blade hangin' off the rear of your 3720...

When you angle the blade with snow or even heavier material - the weight and drag of the blade will pull the tractor off in the direction of the offset blade end. And you'll be fighting that all the time!

And there's the times when you'll be gauging the ends of the blade (both ends for that matter) based upon the "rough dimension" of your tractor and --- crash, bang, boom --- you caught the end of the blade anyway!

I'd try to work something out with the dealer.... or put it on Craig's List.

Best of luck.

AKfish

 

[RickB]

Given the fact that you have already purchased the blade, why not try it and decide for yourself?

 

[Rad1956]

OK guys -- I am going to try it when I get a chance -- but just in case, and for future reference-- what kind of tools do I use to cut and drill the blade? I don't have a machine shop, nor do I weld.

 

[sunnyside360]

OK guys -- I am going to try it when I get a chance -- but just in case, and for future reference-- what kind of tools do I use to cut and drill the blade? I don't have a machine shop, nor do I weld.

I'd take it to a shop that has the tools and expertise to cut the blade and drill the new holes if that's the route you want to take. If done properly and painted, you'd probably be the only person who ever knew it was cut.

 

[s219]

If you got a good deal on the blade, then you will probably still come out ahead if you have to cut it down. That wouldn't bother me in the least. Just keep it simple.

 

[KML]

I suggest you keep the blade and buy a bigger tractor:thumbsup: