Block Wall Circle Question

[magicheater]

It looks to me that you have a curved wall to start with. Perhaps the answer lies within the wall. Purely an exercise in mathematics but you can just align the block you are using with the size of mortar joint you are comfortable with and then do the math.

 

[dieselscout80]

It looks to me that you have a curved wall to start with. Perhaps the answer lies within the wall. Purely an exercise in mathematics but you can just align the block you are using with the size of mortar joint you are comfortable with and then do the math.

Yes, but I want a tighter curve and in the opposite direction of the current curve.

 

[BeezFun]

Yes, but I want a tighter curve and in the opposite direction of the current curve.

Block won't resist pressure against it's concave side, so if you fill the planter with dirt the blocks are likely to crack and move out over time. You'll need to put some kind of wire along every course to keep it in place. On a straight wall it's called track and looks like a ladder made out of welding rod. You'll have to improvise on a curve like that. You could probably bend 3/8" rebar by hand and use that, although it's way heavier than you need. Maybe some 3/16" welding rod. Weld the ends together so it's a continuous hoop, or overlap a few sections.

 

[MikeD74T]

The angle block are meant to be stacked to form a vertically straight corner. They willl work but will not be "round'. Half block are square ended & much more difficult to cut if it's desired to reduce joint size as well as there'll be less overlap of blocks but would be "rounder" than full block.
I'd take down 4 ' of the existing wall & go with a bigger radius. Filling the cells with grout/rebar will help with freezing/pushing concern but good drainage behind the wall is even better. The existing wall seems to have held up ok. My first post assumed 8" block but the wall looks to by 10" or 12"??? MikeD74t

 

[dieselscout80]

The angle block are meant to be stacked to form a vertically straight corner. They willl work but will not be "round'. Half block are square ended & much more difficult to cut if it's desired to reduce joint size as well as there'll be less overlap of blocks but would be "rounder" than full block.
I'd take down 4 ' of the existing wall & go with a bigger radius. Filling the cells with grout/rebar will help with freezing/pushing concern but good drainage behind the wall is even better. The existing wall seems to have held up ok. My first post assumed 8" block but the wall looks to by 10" or 12"??? MikeD74t

We measured them and yes they are bigger 12".

 

[MikeD74T]

You can still tie into the wall with 8" block, they'll make a better turn. 8' diameter or so should make a good looking planter. I'm guessing you need about 1/3 -1/2 circle to die into higher ground? If I wasn't 1000 miles away I'd lay the block for you. MikeD74t

 

[dieselscout80]

I just thought of another idea.

What if I got a piece of concrete culvert and used that to make the planter?

Is that what you meant by a catch basin Egon?

 

[crbr]

good thread........

 

[BeezFun]

What if I got a piece of concrete culvert and used that to make the planter?

Much better idea

 

[Egon]

Yes, that is what was meant by a catch basin or manhole section. They might come in shorter lengths.