Metal Roof Question

[gbw]

I'll post a photo of the roof tomorrow.

This seems to have generated some interest. I've learned a lot and I'm grateful to all of you.

I didn't build the house, but the purlins are 2x4s and I'm not sure of the spacing I'll try to get an idea. Most of the rooms are vaulted so there is limited access to the rafters etc. from inside.

Doing it myself is not sensible and maybe not possible - I'm capable in many respects, but I've no experience doing this and it must be done right. Also I hope I'm wise enough finally to see when something is beyond me, for quality, safety, and economic reasons. Especially at 62.

And those who say $2000 may not be too unreasonable, the more I learn the more correct this sounds, considering pros will do it and back it up. If the roof goes another 17 years I'm gonna be very well satisfied.

 

[SandburRanch]

The screws come out because Fast Johnnie Construction Company used a screw gun and stripped the threads on some holes in the green wet lumber that was used. When the lumber dried the holes enlarged making matters worse.

 

[yelbike]

The screws come out because Fast Johnnie Construction Company used a screw gun and stripped the threads on some holes in the green wet lumber that was used. When the lumber dried the holes enlarged making matters worse.

Would you expect to hand screw them? You'd have Popeye arms when your done!!! I would not blame the original installer it's reasonable that a few screws would get striped.

I guess at 62 you have the wisdom to realize not everything needs to be done by ourselves. When will I learn????

 

[SandburRanch]

Would you expect to hand screw them? You'd have Popeye arms when your done!!! I would not blame the original installer it's reasonable that a few screws would get striped.

Yes, I would expect them to do a final torque by hand after using the screw gun just as I expect the lug nuts on my pickup to be torqued after running the nut up to contact with an impact.

That's not asking Fast Johnnie too much but I doubt he will ever work for me anyway because I don't hire Fast Johnnies that are interested in how fast a job can be completed rather than how good a job can be done .

 

[Duffster]

Yes, I would expect them to do a final torque by hand after using the screw gun just as I expect the lug nuts on my pickup to be torqued after running the nut up to contact with an impact.

That's hilarious.:laughing:

 

[aczlan]

Yes, I would expect them to do a final torque by hand after using the screw gun just as I expect the lug nuts on my pickup to be torqued after running the nut up to contact with an impact.
That's not asking Fast Johnnie too much but I doubt he will ever work for me anyway because I don't hire Fast Johnnies that are interested in how fast a job can be completed rather than how good a job can be done .

LOL, good luck getting any reputable company to do that. They will all be too busy to hand drive all the screws in the roof (that is what a Torque Limiter is for). Little bit of difference between hand torquing the 20 to 32 lug nuts on your pickup and hand torquing thousands of screws in your roof. A torque limited driver will set a more accurate torque for that many screws than could be done by hand.
My brother used to work for a Mennonite construction company who does some of the best work in the area. They ONLY use 18v Dewalt impact drivers to drive the screws.

Aaron Z

 

[JB4310]

Was that meant for me?

If I'm hired to do the job, then I will come back if there is a leak. I've done a few metal roofs, and like anything else that I do, if it fails, I'm going to do it again because I didn't do it right the first time.

Part of the way I price a job is if I think it's going to be an ongoing issue or if it's a simple in and out job. I wouldn't bid the job without inspecting the purlins and attic. There are other things that could be causing the screws to fail other then bad washers.

Eddie

Wasn't just for you but....

So even if you didn't install the roof you would guarantee against leaks just because you replaced the fasteners?

I specialize in leak repairs from roofs to basements. In the basements it's an industry standard to give warranties for waterproofing which is really just water control. we're not stopping the water just preventing it from going on the floor. I tell my customers the guarantee is to protect me as much as them, so there is no misunderstanding. After all, I write the guarantee.

On roofs, I repair all types of surfaces but do not install any types new. When I quote a job I specifically state "No guarantee, except that we will allow for one return visit at no extra charge to address on going leaks from the area we repaired" I explain to people if after 2 visits by me there is still a problem, they will need an engineer to diagnose their problem and most likely need extensive work. Which couldn't possibly be covered by what I charge for the repair.

I agree with you 100%, but have read links where some metal roofing suppliers say to screw their roofs through the ridges. I don't agree with this line of thought and have never done it this way. I want the screws to be tight and the metal to be held TIGHT against the purlins or decking. Any movement will lead to failure, and I don't see how you can screw through a ridge and not have any movement over time.

Eddie

This is one area I don't have as much experience with, the modern metal panel roof system, probably because once installed they require little maintenance, but also because they are not common around here, almost zero on residential, but more on commercial.

I could understand the reasoning for putting the screws on the ridges, that would keep them out of the water flow path, if a screw did lose it's seal then there would be far less chance of leaks. I would also THINK with the screw in the ridge there would/ could be constant tension on it from the spring effect of the metal being compressed. That may help hold them? I guess that could have a negative effect also though. I really can't imagine how these screws would need replacing or are coming lose though, I have been on metal roofs, and have never seen this. But again I have less experience with these roofs.

Yes, I would expect them to do a final torque by hand after using the screw gun just as I expect the lug nuts on my pickup to be torqued after running the nut up to contact with an impact.
.

That's hilarious.:laughing:

Yeah that's never gonna happen, unless you do it yourself (like you mentioned)

I do check my lug-nuts, with a breaker bar AFTER I torque them as much as my impact/ compressor will do, but that's because my capacity is not what the garages have. That will never happen in a shop though.

JB

 

[aczlan]

I do check my lug-nuts, with a breaker bar AFTER I torque them as much as my impact/ compressor will do, but that's because my capacity is not what the garages have. That will never happen in a shop though.

Go into Walmart to have them do something with the tires and request that they be hand tightened.
They will put the lugnuts on by hand and a manager will come over to verify the torque with a torque wrench.
They don't like it, but I don't like warped calipers either and I have had calipers that were warped after the shop put the wheels back on with an impact wrench. One lug got missed for the final torque and I had a bad vibration when I used the brakes. They were better after I tightened them with a torque wrench, but they were never the same after that.

Aaron Z

 

[SandburRanch]

That's hilarious.:laughing:

I doubt for $2,000 the OP thinks anything is hilarious. Do it right the first time or pay the price.

 

[Duffster]

I doubt for $2,000 the OP thinks anything is hilarious. Do it right the first time or pay the price.

I think he will find the humor in it.