Snow Blade Should I run shoes on my front snow plow on a gravel driveway?

[JB4310]

Thanks. I never heard of the "pipe trick" before. What kind of tool do you use to cut the steel pipe? I have a machine shop locally that could probably run a notch down it. I guess I could weld a couple tabs onto the pipe and drill the blade for fasteners or bolts.

I just used an abrasive wheel saw, but mine was an odd ball very thin gauge pipe.
I tried the plastic pipe but shredded it pretty quickly. The pipe definitely works at stopping the gauging

This is how I did mine. the pipe is ~2.5 - 3" The plow is 6.5'

JB

 

[Lumberdink]

Neat! A picture is definitely worth 1000 words. I might spring for chains on all 4 wheels on down the road too. :thumbsup:

 

[rgs03833]

I just used an abrasive wheel saw, but mine was an odd ball very thin gauge pipe.
I tried the plastic pipe but shredded it pretty quickly. The pipe definitely works at stopping the gauging

This is how I did mine. the pipe is ~2.5 - 3" The plow is 6.5'

JB

Hi JB, def a good idea. Better than buying a replacement, cost cheaper too :thumbsup:

 

[GLorman]

For the last 2 years I've been using schedual 80 (about .25" thick wall) PVC. It comes in 10' lengths for about $10 at Home Depot. The gravel driveway and road are gradually grinding away at the pipe, but so far so good. No more gouging and the blade in float follows the dips and bumps. I've found that the pipe needs to be about 6 to 8" shoter than the snow blade or the ends break off. I've tried the thinner plastic pipes but they just grind away or the cold gets to them and they break. If I can get at least a year with a $5 piece, I think that is pretty cheap.

 

[Harvey9]

I use 2.5 " ABS pipe, cost about $10., works great so far.

Harvey

 

[LD1]

The pipe trick works well.

But there is also nothing wrong with the tried and true shoes. Just set the so you leave about an inch or so. And if you already have the shoes, and are itching to try out the plow, throw them on and have at it. And then if you decide on the pipe, at least you will know how they both act and make your own mind up on what you like best.

But personally, I dont use either on my gravel drive. I mush all of my snow to one spot at the back of my turn-around but not off in the yard. Then come srping when the snow melts, I have a nice pile of gravel to maintain potholes and such.

 

[Lumberdink]

Before I posted and I was googling this topic and I ended up over on a forum dedicated to plowing, mostly with trucks. They discussed "feathering" the plow which I believe means lowering the plow to make good contact with the driveway surface but with less than 100% of the plow's weight bearing down. This will probably be my best compromise because there are some areas where I really do want to scrape it down to the bone.

 

[LD1]

Before I posted and I was googling this topic and I ended up over on a forum dedicated to plowing, mostly with trucks. They discussed "feathering" the plow which I believe means lowering the plow to make good contact with the driveway surface but with less than 100% of the plow's weight bearing down. This will probably be my best compromise because there are some areas where I really do want to scrape it down to the bone.

That works well only if you have a flat driveway.

If your driveway has any hills (even slight) will cause less than desired results.

 

[rgs03833]

Some replacement Shoes cost more than a Pipe! Do your Math, see whats worth? LMFAO:laughing:

Or cut the Pipe about 4" each and weld it and use them as Snow Plow Shoes???

 

[Lumberdink]

That would be an consideration if my brandy new plow didn't come with brandy new shoes.