Anyone install their own loader on a BX...

[Tags]

I am looking to purchase a loader for my BX2230 and was just wondering if its worth doing the install myself just so I know how it all hooks into the machine and so I know that it was done correctly.The dealer wants $450 to do the install.

 

[gwdixon]

That seems a little high for the install. At shop rates that sounds like a 5 - 6 hour job.

However, there is the issue of connecting hydraulic lines that can be a real pain. Once you get started on your own you may regret it.

If you plan to buy the FEL from the dealer there is wiggle room in the price. My LA211 had been sitting out back at the dealer for two years and he desperately wanted to get rid of it. He did the install for free along with discounting the FEL.

(My BX2200 is in the background in the photo.)

 

[kevinj]

I am looking to purchase a loader for my BX2230 and was just wondering if its worth doing the install myself just so I know how it all hooks into the machine and so I know that it was done correctly.The dealer wants $450 to do the install.

It will probably take you all and some help if you do not an equipped shop so the price seem in line to me.

 

[timswi]

It will probably take you all and some help if you do not an equipped shop so the price seem in line to me.

Just getting the parts out of the truck and assembling that will be at least a 2 person job...That isn't even inculding the hydro lines etc...I'd let them do it.

 

[RobertN]

My old B8200 did not have a loader when I got it; I went with a local repair/used tractor shop, partly for price, and because his shop does great work.

A couple years after I got it, I had to partially remove most of the sub-frame and stuff(it was a quick attach model). It really was not that big of a deal, although some pieces were heavy. And, at least the Bushhog manual, was pretty thorough.

 

[kevinj]

Just getting the parts out of the truck and assembling that will be at least a 2 person job...That isn't even inculding the hydro lines etc...I'd let them do it.

Be sure to recheck all bolt frequently if the dealer does it.

A couple of mine never made it to the 10 hour check and were missing bolts.

Since then I put my own on and also never seize the bolts so I can get apart later on for service.

If the dealer installs one for me I remove each bolt, never seize, reinstall & torque. Bolts stay tight just fine then.

 

[bucktaker]

I installed my la854 Loader on my L5740 in Sept
I had planned on picking up the loader but my dealer delivered it to my shop for free. Its (mine) was big when attached to the skid. We skidded it off the trailer and dragged it with my quad into the shop.

Install itself wasnt too bad I ended up buying a m16 tap to clean the holes on my tractor so the bolts would go in. You will need a hoist or method of holding the loader up so u can drop the stands once you are ready to connect. I used a engine hoist. one little piece of advice is to make sure the bucket is on while connecting to the tractor.

All in all it was not too difficult and I saved about the same amount you were quoted.

 

[Tags]

Thanks for the replies, I am still mad at myself for not buying the loader with the machine. I am amazed the LA211 loader is still even available. Anyway,as far as moving it around thats not really a problem and neither is supporting it while assembling, the part i'm more curious about is the hydraulic hookup and if the directions are good enough for a fairly mechanical person to comprehend.

 

[kevinj]

Thanks for the replies, I am still mad at myself for not buying the loader with the machine. I am amazed the LA211 loader is still even available. Anyway,as far as moving it around thats not really a problem and neither is supporting it while assembling, the part i'm more curious about is the hydraulic hookup and if the directions are good enough for a fairly mechanical person to comprehend.

I have done a couple and the instructions are fine. I think you need to remove the rear wheel for access.

 

[bp fick]

Yes. I have to say, that if the hydraulic block is already in place, installing your own loader is a piece of cake.

I can walk you through the possible foibles or pitfalls to avoid, but there are aren't many. Knowing what I know now, I could mount one in less than an hour. Truly.

Not having the block in place? Considerably different job.

 

[bp fick]

The loader essentially comes fully assembled. If you take your loader on and off, as many of do on smaller tractors, that is pretty much the way it comes in the crate. A few bolts and pins, install the stand, about done.

Use your impact gun to install the "towers" and that's about it. Honestly. Easy. The installation of the control joystick, hydro lines and block would take much longer and while it wouldn't be brain surgery but certainly fussier work.

 

[Tags]

I do not have any hydraulics on the machine right now and the loader would come with the joystick that stays with the machine, so I imagine I'd have to install the block as well?

 

[bp fick]

Tags, my BX came with the block, so installing the loader was no harder than rotating tires on my truck or something akin.

I'd have to read the installation guide for the joystick, block and lines to comment on the degree of difficulty. That said.

$450? I'm waaaaaaay too cheap to spring the money for the hardware and then spring another $450 for the installation labor. I have a well equipped shop, I have the patience of Job in doing jobs like this. I'm semi retired and have the time, although surely, it cannot be a week long project. I'm quite sure I've tackled much more difficult jobs that this. No offense whatever to the guy at the shop who does this install, but I've been doing mechanical work for a long time. When you've got more time than money, you do this kind of stuff, I guess.

 

[RobertN]

After having had my old B8220 for a couple years, and then adding a loader, to me it really made it a "tractor".

One reason I went with a Bushhog, was because the tractor was old enough(12 years or so) when I got it, the original was no longer available. I talked to the local Kubota dealer; he said they would install an after market. Or, they would take a newer Kubota loader, and cut/weld the subframe to fit the older tractor.

The Bushhog was an easy bolt-on; they had subframes to fit older tractors...

I prefer the factory loader, but did not want one that was heavily modified to fit the older tractor(1986 B8200)

FWIW, the B8200 had the hydraulic block easily accessible. I did have mine installed, but looking at it after, all that stuff was pretty simple.

Thanks for the replies, I am still mad at myself for not buying the loader with the machine. I am amazed the LA211 loader is still even available.

 

[timswi]

Be sure to recheck all bolt frequently if the dealer does it.

A couple of mine never made it to the 10 hour check and were missing bolts.

Since then I put my own on and also never seize the bolts so I can get apart later on for service.

If the dealer installs one for me I remove each bolt, never seize, reinstall & torque. Bolts stay tight just fine then.

Everything on my BX23 and my RTV1100 were perfect fom the dealer and needed no further attention from me..Hat's off to Phil's in Columbiana OH.

 

[Tags]

Tags, my BX came with the block, so installing the loader was no harder than rotating tires on my truck or something akin.

I'd have to read the installation guide for the joystick, block and lines to comment on the degree of difficulty. That said.

$450? I'm waaaaaaay too cheap to spring the money for the hardware and then spring another $450 for the installation labor. I have a well equipped shop, I have the patience of Job in doing jobs like this. I'm semi retired and have the time, although surely, it cannot be a week long project. I'm quite sure I've tackled much more difficult jobs that this. No offense whatever to the guy at the shop who does this install, but I've been doing mechanical work for a long time. When you've got more time than money, you do this kind of stuff, I guess.

I kind of agree with your way of thinking, although I am not retired, it is winter and I am not that busy right now, so time is on my side at this point. $450 is nothing to laugh at and I do have a well equipped shop so I imagine ill do it on my own.

 

[kevinj]

I kind of agree with your way of thinking, although I am not retired, it is winter and I am not that busy right now, so time is on my side at this point. $450 is nothing to laugh at and I do have a well equipped shop so I imagine ill do it on my own.

If you have a good shop then go for it. It really is very easy do this in a good shop.

 

[bp fick]

Have you read through the installation manuals, schematics, and directions for installation of the hydraulic portion of this install? I'd want to study that as part of my decision making process. It "sounds" as if it would similar to a master cylinder and a couple brake lines kind of installation?

 

[radioman]

thats the problem. the BX22 series is plumbed totally different then BX24 and up since its preplumbed compared to 22 series. I am going to say that if a kubota mechanic can do it, then we can do it. its just a matter of time and willingness to put up with any quirks/issues.

Question is, are you willing to do it even if you run into issues? A garage space is handy for working on it in spare time, who knows it might go easier then you thought. I just cant say for mine as my BX24 was already mounted.

 

[RaydaKub]

I just had to replace the lines from the rear end up to the front on my BX2230. If you have the hydaulic block on the back end already, then adding the pipes to the front is pretty easy. If the block isn't installed, then I don't know for sure how well this goes.

In order to install the pipes, you should pull the left rear wheel off and I found that tipping up the operator floor pan is almost a must (though the deal probably wouldn't). On the left side, thread the pipes down under the engine and back to the block. The pipes I on mine had colored tags on each end to help match them up, but the shape alone is probably adequate.

Make sure you add the pipes before you add the mounting brackets. You need to be able to twist the pipes up and down to thread them in under the engine and the bracket comes up underneath of the pipes and helps support them. If the brackets are on already, I'm not sure you'll be able to do this.

The bracket on the left side has 4 of the 6 bolts with explicit nuts and lock washers. 2 of the bolts went into welded nuts on the frame already. Why they couldn't do all of them with welded nuts is something I'll never know. I would guess they have some welded on the right side also, but I never looked. Or was it 2 of 8 welded...?

I can't imagine that the plumbing on the right side is any worse than on the left. The pipes are shorter, so threading them in should be easier.