Brush hog advice

LD1 · Feb 9, 2012

I disagree.

O/A is like a poor mans TIG:thumbsup: A $250 set of torches and a $250 stick and you can weld steel ranging from sheet metal to thick stuff.

Obviously, if given a choice, I would prefer TIG for 16-20GA steel. But my second choice would be O/A.

Arc welding IS faster and easier for most stuff. But not for thin stuff IMO. And a $2000+ TIG set-up is a little overkill IMO for a home hobbiest...especially if he already has a torch.

sandman2234 · Feb 10, 2012

Man, and to think I was bad about going off on a tangent, lol. First brush hogs, then finish mowers, to nail clipping a field, and now on to welding and cutting and which one is best for that.
As far as the O/P and his neighbor, maybe he LIKES you to come over with projects to work on? I have a good friend that comes over and we go at all kinds of different projects. Some small, some way too big, but we always have a good time ('cept that one time I dropped a piece of channel on my foot, but steel toed shoes have helped that)
He might be a good source of learning how to weld so you can justify the purchase of a welder (Tomstone for $100 or so?) and maybe if you get lucky you can get a shield with it.
David from jax

stevewatr · Feb 10, 2012

Watched some how to videos on welding. Explanation of types/methods, and based on what I've read, I would want the oxy/propylene setup for cutting/heating, not to be confused with propane. propylene is cheaper than acetylene, and although it technically has a higher temp at the inner core of the flame, when used with the proper type cutting tip, it will cut faster.

Oxy/propylene does not create a sheild around the weld area, so it is not a good choice for welding.

For welding I'd like a good stick welder. From what I read, they are easier for the novice to use, and handle heavy stiff well. They are not good for sheet metal.............So I'd probably like to have a mig setup for the lighter stuff.

Now all I need is a couple grand, and I'm off to the races!

Decided not to pull the stump jumper. Looked under it today, and noticed several welds/repairs on it, then measured the distance from each end of the large steel bar (blade carrier), to the underside of the deck, and it was equal, so only the pan part of the jumper is bent, and not enough to make me want to open that can of worms.

Steve W.

stevewatr · Feb 10, 2012

sandman2234 said:
As far as the O/P and his neighbor, maybe he LIKES you to come over with projects to work on?

Yeah, he is a good guy. He has known me since I was a boy. He is a retired tool/die machinist, has 2 lathes, an old bidgeport, and an ancient looking "buzz box" stick welder..............handy neighbor to have.

Steve W.

Soundguy · Feb 10, 2012

LD1 said:
Arc welding IS faster and easier for most stuff. But not for thin stuff IMO. And a $2000+ TIG set-up is a little overkill IMO for a home hobbiest...especially if he already has a torch.

I weld plenty of sheet metal with a 30/70a ac 120v stick welder using 1/16 or 5/64 rods. i use easystrike rods in 6013 for it.

welds nice! fender skins.. body panels, hoods.. etc..

soundguy

LD1 · Feb 10, 2012

Personally I have never had much luck with stick welding thin stuff. I prefer to O/A if I dont have access to the tig. But thats just my opinion.

sandman2234 · Feb 10, 2012

Tig for welding regular sheet metal really isn't that expensive as long as you scratch start it. Probably less than $300 would be my guess, though used those parts can be cheaper. Now add in water cooling, hi-freq start (or continous hi-freq for aluminum), reversible polarity, etc and you can start watching the $$$$$ go out the window. I actually have $235 in my Tig machine and it welds thin to 5/8" alum on single phase power, but I got lucky with that purchase. It is an oldie but goodie and was sitting at the University of Florida when they decided to upgrade. Foot pedal didn't have more than a scratch or two on the paint where you keep your foot.
Stevewtr, take some time and get the neighbor to show you how to run those machines (especially the welder). I met a guy in a night class machine shop that lived a few miles away, and would go spend an hour or two over at his house swapping stories or showing me the latest project on the mill or lathe. He retired as a toolmaker at the local base, and was just hitting the night school as a way to use some of the other machines available at low cost(versus buying another machine). The teacher learned from him, lol.
He was scheduled for double knee replacement and called me to see if I wanted to buy his Bridgeport and Southbend lathe. I gave him top dollar at the time (now way above the value due to drop in machine prices) He figured he would never stand in front of them again. He took the money and went on an Alaskan cruise with his wife. Now he comes over to my house to use the machines instead of me going over there.
David from jax

stevewatr · Feb 10, 2012

sandman2234 said:
Stevewtr, take some time and get the neighbor to show you how to run those machines (especially the welder). David from jax

I took a machine shop night course at the local voc tech school, and got the basics on a lathe, bridgeport, horizontal milling machine, and surface grinder. Old equipment, but nice to learn on.

stevewatr · Feb 13, 2012

Part 5 is up for those of you following the progress on the old cutter:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVxtjoa6Oi4]Bush hog 305 part 5 - YouTube[/ame]