Is it to hot?

Smoody · Feb 28, 2012

I installed the Sunpro guages from Autozone. I think I will pick up a thermal heat gun to check the temperature to see how accurate the gauge is.

I guess I need to check the radiator cap as well, any particular make/type anyone has crossed that will work for a yanmar?

Thank you all for the help.

California · Feb 28, 2012

Smoody said:
I think I will pick up a thermal heat gun to check the temperature

radiator cap ... any particular make/type

Yanmar specs 13 psi. I bought a 14 psi cap for 72 Datsun. I got the version with the lever to relieve pressure before you open it which I consider is a safety enhancement. This is a perfect fit.

I bought HF's $10 infrared 'gun' (the size of a car-key remote). It's great for searching for hot or cold (blocked) areas in the radiator surface.

My radiator had been boiled before I bought the tractor in 2003. That, and hosing out mowing chaff when it looks coated, account for why it has never overheated.

These are designed to run at full hp continuous so long as you keep up the maintenance according to the manual. If it won't without overheating, it is time to remedy something.

Do you see water moving when you look into the radiator? I've read of cases where the water pump vanes had corroded away.

winston1 · Feb 28, 2012

Not sure of all, but manual for ym220/226 says cap should maintain 12psi and system is to be tested at 13psi.

Car Doc · Feb 28, 2012

I got a 13# with the lever also (edit) just a plain old large automotive cap is all you need to ask for but it needs to be for a closed system. The exact one I have is a MotoRad ST-13 got at Oreilys hth.

I like that not only because its safe but because when the engine is cold you can flip the lever and just squeeze the upper hose and get all the air out of the system into the bottle and pull new coolant back in from it and have it completely air free and completely full of coolant.

By that procedure it puts the air into the overflow bottle and pulls coolant back in makes filling it properly easier and knowing what the correct cold level is in the bottle. I set mine exactly at the low mark so I can monitor any loss etc fwtw.

edit: I forgot to mention I just replaced my thermostat the other day before I tilled my garden (cabin fever set in) and it looked original so 30+ YO? So when tilling my temp never got over 180 the thermostst is calibrated at so my 220 may not be the norm this summer dont know if yours has a thermostat Smoody but that is another consideration. hth

clemsonfor · Feb 28, 2012

Do you have a IR thermometer? If not id get the cheapo one on sale at HF all the time for like $12. Then test the radiator from top to bottom in all spots to see if there is "hot" spots which would let you know if there is a blockage. I think thats your not to hot now but like you i would wonder about the summer temps pulling a plow or bushhog. Boiling or rodding it out will only help. I had a radiator in my S15 that would overheat and that helped it and it never ran hot again.

Smoody · Feb 28, 2012

California, are you talking about taking radiator cap off while cold and watching it until it starts flowing, I have not but would think it would have overheated if no water flow? It has not overheated at all.

Car Doc, I do not think the ym2210 has a thermostat, just water pump.

Guess I will have the radiator boiled, new cap and new coolant, I got a jam up deal on this tractor so a little maintenance cost can't hurt, especially when dealing with heat.

Probably should flush the block after taking radiator off to.
Anyone care to post disassembly diagram for radiator, sure it's not hard task just can't hurt to have a picture.thanks

California · Feb 28, 2012

Smoody said:
California, are you talking about taking radiator cap off while cold and watching it until it starts flowing, I have not but would think it would have overheated if no water flow?

Just look in the cap any time the engine is idling (and before it warms up so you don't get burned). You should see circulation.

While these have a water pump, the similar YM1700, and the older, smaller Yanmars didn't and cooled ok with just thermosiphon cooling. (Heat rises, so cold water is continually drawn into the bottom of the block and leaves via the top hose). It worked for Model T's, it still works on YM1700, YM1500 etc and they are capable of putting out full rated hp continuous so long as the cooling system is in good condition. I admire that simplicity.

Boiling the radiator should give you years of troublefree cooling. If instead this reveals that the radiator was disintegrating - a new one from Hoye should be under $300. Cleaning or replacing the radiator is probably the best thing you can do to lengthen the life of the engine. I bought a new head for my Trooper once. It had a year (or 3?) warranty ONLY if I replaced the radiator at the same time. I think they knew what they were talking about.

Removing the radiator should be simple. I have a J-shaped pick from HF which is the only thing that worked to pull the lower hose off, in that tight space. Aside from that the project is real obvious after you get started.

moored4 · Feb 28, 2012

How old of a unit is this? If it is old and never had the coolent taken good care of the fins on the water pump could be worn/rusted down! If you have done all of the above suggestion and it's still running hot I take a serious look at the H2O pump. :thumbsup:

California · Feb 29, 2012

moored4 said:
How old of a unit is this?

Late 70's.

I've never seen a stripped-smooth water pump impeller myself, or read of one in this forum, but I think its worthwhile to look into the radiator to verify that the water is moving.

clemsonfor · Feb 29, 2012

Smoody i can pull the radiator in say 20 mins in my ym2000. Its not hard. remove the side pannels if the 2210 has um. Then you pull the fan shroud off and the support bracket thing back to the block. If i remember the shroud was a trick to pull out, and i dont think you could just lay in over the fan as the radiator is so small i think it tapers to much to fit over fan if i remember right. PUll the hoses and the lower is hard due to them sticking and it being tight. I just used a screwdriver to help loosen and my hands. Some of them have a drian petcock from a fitting to the block to a drain screw on the frame that is handy to drain the block and rad at once. Then its just 2 bolts or nuts on the bottom and it pull right up.