Is it to hot?

[Smoody]

YM2210, cleaned/flushed radiator, new coolant (about 60 water/40coolant)

It is mild here with highs in the 60's, while doing loader work or plowing my temperature is reaching about 210 degrees on my YM2210, I added water wetter in the coolant and staying around 205 degrees with heavy load.

I know that is not considered overheating but is this typical for my machine? I read some ppl on here don't get above 180..should I look into it further or am I safe at 205 degrees? my concern is what will happen when summer hits and it 90's here, what is optimal temperature for the ym2210 under heavy load?

And would a lower water/coolant ratio improve this?

Thanks

 

[careyo63]

Make sure to check the Level in the Radiator after it cooled of an sat. May have Air pockets in it. Warm it up with the cap loose may help also. Also make sure the Gage is good and reading correctly. Use a Thermometer etc. and check the water temp. to the gage reading. And 50/50 mix is what use.

 

[Smoody]

So what temperature are you seeing? I assume by your comment 210 is to hot or indicating a slight cooling issue

 

[careyo63]

Yeah! thats getting up there. No mention of it running hot before. Was that the reason you changed it? The factory light is calibrated or set at 220 I believe thats why I said a possible Air pocket to go that high all the sudden. And on mine I just have the light call me old school but I just stick my hand down below the dash to tell how hot it is Lol.

 

[Smoody]

No, I changed it just because it looked dirty. and it is running same temp before and after. I just haven;t used it much since I bought it and didn't have a numbered guage on my ym2001 so not sure if its good or needs inspecting, lightly using it around the house it stays around 170, but and plowing or loader work it moves up quick, gets to about 205 and holds, used it 2 hrs at that temp yesterday.

I just want it below 200 , just because

 

[284 International]

Have you cleaned the screen and thoroughly washed out the radiator fins? You may have an airflow issue as opposed to something else. Is the fan in good shape? I'm not worried by something running at 205 degrees by itself, but without a thermostat, that seems a bit high for coolish weather. I'm nervous there may not be enough reserve cooling capacity if it does get warm out to maintain the temperature where it should be.

 

[rsewill]

Clean the radiator fins.

 

[Smoody]

The screen is clean and I sprayed off the fins, but I will double check that, I tightened the belt and the fan is good, I plan to go ahead and back flush one more time after running some cleaner in it, is it necessary to remove the radiator to properly clean all the fins? What is the best way to make sure I get them all clean?

I spoke to a radiator guy who said it was to old to be rodded out?? but that he could boil it to clean, takes 3 days, $85

It has to be an airflow issue like mentioned, as if I throttle down the temperature goes down 10 degrees in no time. I run it at 2000rpm when plowing or moving dirt.

Also how does one go about testing the water pump?

 

[Car Doc]

"It has to be an airflow issue like mentioned, as if I throttle down the temperature goes down 10 degrees in no time."

Bingo - lack of heat transfer the core can be plugged in a few tubes and cause this have the rad shop look at it to be sure.

I have an el-cheepo china autogage 1 1/2" 3 gage set up from Oreillys on mine and my highest temp I see in the 100 degree summer when mowing my 2 acre front lawn at the shop is 220.

And it stays put and never pukes coolant out and I know all my system is up to snuff so I wouldn't worry Smoody. My coolant is closer to 70% AF because my freeze protection was 86 below zero when I checked it this winter. fwtw


Fact just for conversation I think the Yanmar light sender is calibrated at 230ish???

I put a white paint mark on the 220 spot so I can monitor it exactly from my seat w/o looking real close its mounted under my dash by my knees.

Once you get over say 250 thats a problem but 220 and down is ok heck most coolant fans on late model cars dont even turn on until 210-225 so I wouldn't sweat it for now its the sudden change that is what we look for.

 

[284 International]

I don't know of any test for the water pump. I haven't seen output specifications for the pump in any of my service manuals, for any of my tractors, of any brand.

I think cleaning the radiator with soapy water is your best bet. I found a cheap soap nozzle that allows dishwashing detergent to be added to the stream of a garden hose. It works great for cleaning radiators out, because it is low pressure, so the fins won't be deformed. I'm sure compressed air would do fine too, but if it is fairly clean, that should be fine however it gets there.

I would invest in the radiator boil out, honestly, if it consistently starts on run much warmer than 210 consistently. It won't hurt it to run that warm, but much over that creates a risk of localized hot spots that might boil, and that could potentially cause cracks. Especially not knowing the accuracy of the gauge, it would be hard for me to be at the upper edge of comfort long-term. Maybe wait until summer, then see if needs to be boiled or rodded out? I don't know why age would affect the ability to have it rodded, but I'm not a radiator guy. Car Doc may have some information on that for us.

 

[Smoody]

I installed the Sunpro guages from Autozone. I think I will pick up a thermal heat gun to check the temperature to see how accurate the gauge is.

I guess I need to check the radiator cap as well, any particular make/type anyone has crossed that will work for a yanmar?

Thank you all for the help.

 

[California]

I think I will pick up a thermal heat gun to check the temperature

radiator cap ... any particular make/type

Yanmar specs 13 psi. I bought a 14 psi cap for 72 Datsun. I got the version with the lever to relieve pressure before you open it which I consider is a safety enhancement. This is a perfect fit.

I bought HF's $10 infrared 'gun' (the size of a car-key remote). It's great for searching for hot or cold (blocked) areas in the radiator surface.

My radiator had been boiled before I bought the tractor in 2003. That, and hosing out mowing chaff when it looks coated, account for why it has never overheated.

These are designed to run at full hp continuous so long as you keep up the maintenance according to the manual. If it won't without overheating, it is time to remedy something.

Do you see water moving when you look into the radiator? I've read of cases where the water pump vanes had corroded away.

 

[winston1]

Not sure of all, but manual for ym220/226 says cap should maintain 12psi and system is to be tested at 13psi.

 

[Car Doc]

I got a 13# with the lever also (edit) just a plain old large automotive cap is all you need to ask for but it needs to be for a closed system. The exact one I have is a MotoRad ST-13 got at Oreilys hth.

I like that not only because its safe but because when the engine is cold you can flip the lever and just squeeze the upper hose and get all the air out of the system into the bottle and pull new coolant back in from it and have it completely air free and completely full of coolant.

By that procedure it puts the air into the overflow bottle and pulls coolant back in makes filling it properly easier and knowing what the correct cold level is in the bottle. I set mine exactly at the low mark so I can monitor any loss etc fwtw.

edit: I forgot to mention I just replaced my thermostat the other day before I tilled my garden (cabin fever set in) and it looked original so 30+ YO? So when tilling my temp never got over 180 the thermostst is calibrated at so my 220 may not be the norm this summer dont know if yours has a thermostat Smoody but that is another consideration. hth

 

[clemsonfor]

Do you have a IR thermometer? If not id get the cheapo one on sale at HF all the time for like $12. Then test the radiator from top to bottom in all spots to see if there is "hot" spots which would let you know if there is a blockage. I think thats your not to hot now but like you i would wonder about the summer temps pulling a plow or bushhog. Boiling or rodding it out will only help. I had a radiator in my S15 that would overheat and that helped it and it never ran hot again.

 

[Smoody]

California, are you talking about taking radiator cap off while cold and watching it until it starts flowing, I have not but would think it would have overheated if no water flow? It has not overheated at all.

Car Doc, I do not think the ym2210 has a thermostat, just water pump.

Guess I will have the radiator boiled, new cap and new coolant, I got a jam up deal on this tractor so a little maintenance cost can't hurt, especially when dealing with heat.

Probably should flush the block after taking radiator off to.
Anyone care to post disassembly diagram for radiator, sure it's not hard task just can't hurt to have a picture.thanks

 

[California]

California, are you talking about taking radiator cap off while cold and watching it until it starts flowing, I have not but would think it would have overheated if no water flow?

Just look in the cap any time the engine is idling (and before it warms up so you don't get burned). You should see circulation.

While these have a water pump, the similar YM1700, and the older, smaller Yanmars didn't and cooled ok with just thermosiphon cooling. (Heat rises, so cold water is continually drawn into the bottom of the block and leaves via the top hose). It worked for Model T's, it still works on YM1700, YM1500 etc and they are capable of putting out full rated hp continuous so long as the cooling system is in good condition. I admire that simplicity.

Boiling the radiator should give you years of troublefree cooling. If instead this reveals that the radiator was disintegrating - a new one from Hoye should be under $300. Cleaning or replacing the radiator is probably the best thing you can do to lengthen the life of the engine. I bought a new head for my Trooper once. It had a year (or 3?) warranty ONLY if I replaced the radiator at the same time. I think they knew what they were talking about.

Removing the radiator should be simple. I have a J-shaped pick from HF which is the only thing that worked to pull the lower hose off, in that tight space. Aside from that the project is real obvious after you get started.

 

[moored4]

How old of a unit is this? If it is old and never had the coolent taken good care of the fins on the water pump could be worn/rusted down! If you have done all of the above suggestion and it's still running hot I take a serious look at the H2O pump. :thumbsup:

 

[California]

How old of a unit is this?

Late 70's.

I've never seen a stripped-smooth water pump impeller myself, or read of one in this forum, but I think its worthwhile to look into the radiator to verify that the water is moving.

 

[clemsonfor]

Smoody i can pull the radiator in say 20 mins in my ym2000. Its not hard. remove the side pannels if the 2210 has um. Then you pull the fan shroud off and the support bracket thing back to the block. If i remember the shroud was a trick to pull out, and i dont think you could just lay in over the fan as the radiator is so small i think it tapers to much to fit over fan if i remember right. PUll the hoses and the lower is hard due to them sticking and it being tight. I just used a screwdriver to help loosen and my hands. Some of them have a drian petcock from a fitting to the block to a drain screw on the frame that is handy to drain the block and rad at once. Then its just 2 bolts or nuts on the bottom and it pull right up.