Deere 110 with BB1284 box blade, not working properly?

[Martian]

Don't have a hose, where could I find one?

 

[AKfish]

Just need 2 male QD's on 2' of hyd hose. You gotta have at least 4 on your TnT cylinders. The kicker will be on the threaded end to the cylinder - need the right connector for the QD.

AKfish

 

[Martian]

Just need 2 male QD's on 2' of hyd hose. You gotta have at least 4 on your TnT cylinders. The kicker will be on the threaded end to the cylinder - need the right connector for the QD.

AKfish

I wouldn't want to take the hoses off the cylinders, just to much work to get them on and off and I'd be would be worried about the cylinders leaking afterward. I'm going to talk to the dealer and try and find a hose with the disconnects.

 

[Martian]

I really think it's beyond air now. I was just out tinkering and although it seems the TL cylinder works fine, the side link doesn't retract all the way, though I don't know if it is all the way extracted. See the picture it doesn't come back to level. I haven't had any issues with the FEL or when I had the BH on. Also the JUST the rear 3 ports bleed down like crazy, in about 15 minutes of being off, the side link cylinder dropped about 3 inches. After where this cylinder is it would just load the tractor. I will be stopping by the dealer a little later.

 

[Martian]

And now I just realized that the box blade is leaking fluid!

 

[Zebrafive]

Don't have a hose, where could I find one?

Tractor Supply. Might be worth having a guage too, that you could plug into your hydraulics for diagnoisis.

 

[jenkinsph]

I would make sure the fittings are tight on the boxblade cylinder. This may be part of the problem, one direction it is leaking and the other it is sucking in air.

I would lower the scarifiers and shut off the engine to check these fittings. Be careful about high pressure fluid it can easily penetrate the skin.


Martian, the cost of this hose and couplers is cheap compared to dealer service rates. Air may not be your problem but it is in my thinking the most likely cause. I would ckeck over all the lines to make sure they are tight and not leaking. Remember trouble shooting can be a process of elimination as well as identification and verification. In this case you need to eliminate the chance of air in the lines by purging them. If this doesn't solve the problem you will need to proceed further, checking the pressure to the ports as suggested above.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Please don't take offense, but sometimes we over look the obvious. Is your hydraulic fluid at the right level? A lot of what is going on sounds like you have air bubbles in the fluid and that can be from a low level of fluid.

Just a thought

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

Steve and Mtnview are both making logical suggestions. I'd be looking at the couplers and level also. Is it just one circuit? Have you swapped cyclinders to see if the problem follows?

Matt

 

[Martian]

Please don't take offense, but sometimes we over look the obvious. Is your hydraulic fluid at the right level? A lot of what is going on sounds like you have air bubbles in the fluid and that can be from a low level of fluid.

Just a thought

I'm really not very educated on the hydraulics stuff, so no offense taken, and I haven't looked at it. Before I ever touched it I had the dealer do a complete service, to try and avoid my stupidity, they said all looked very good, so I assumed they meant what they said. I'll check it out though. Thanks for the help.

Steve and Mtnview are both making logical suggestions. I'd be looking at the couplers and level also. Is it just one circuit? Have you swapped cyclinders to see if the problem follows?

Matt

I did not swap the cylinders. I did try all of them on the 3120 and both worked fine. It may just be air in the lines, who knows. I was so frustrated with it yesterday I took it off and put the BH on and dug up some trees, but I plan on putting the 3PH back on today and trying everything out again today. And at first it seemed to only be the box blade circuit, by yesterday the tilt cylinder wasn't working correctly. I had the box blade on the top circuit, the tilt on the middle and the top on the bottom circuit.

My biggest problem right now is I don't have an owners manual, so I don't know what to look at/for. I did get one off eBay. Couple years old but about $150 cheaper than the only new one I found. So I'm trying to delay a little while until I can know what I'm doing and not screw anything up worse than it may already be.

I'm going to go fishing in the engine compartment, but does anyone know where I can look for the hydraulic fluid level. It's probably right out in the open, but I haven't looked yet so I'll go look and see what I can come up with.

Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[AKfish]

Little curved dipstick with a yellow handle - right above the pto shaft and arms.

AKfish

 

[AKfish]

No OP manual... ouch! Many of the Deere manuals are online at the JD site. I know the 4000 series and the one for my 5075M is on there.

You could just print out pages you need - quickly.

AKfish

 

[Martian]

It's on it's last 'X' but says its good enough. I could add a little, though.

Without the OM it has been a lot of trial and error. Luckily not to many nor to big of errors. I haven't tried anything besides what you guys have recommended, because without the OM I want to make sure I'm not making it worse. I still have to get a hose, though, I'll do that tonight or tomorrow at the latest and see if it helps any.

Again, thanks for all the help. I can't imagine it's to complex and once it works it will be one of those, why didn't I think of that earliers...

 

[Martian]

Thought I should update. I put the 3ph and box blade back on and the tilt cylinder was working just fine. I think it must be air. In going to check out TSC tomorrow morning for a hose.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Martian, switch the quick connects around. Switch the top link with the rippers. If you have a problem with the top link, then the problem is in the valve. The ripper bar should work with the normal top link valve.

 

[Martian]

Martian, switch the quick connects around. Switch the top link with the rippers. If you have a problem with the top link, then the problem is in the valve. The ripper bar should work with the normal top link valve.

Thanks Brian. Just did that and sure enough, all the way, all the way down. Excuse my stupidity on hydraulics, but does this fairly well guarantee air? This is my first tractor with all these extra hydraulics. The 3120 had 1 remote that I had never used till I got the box blade and the 5410's are only used for the loader. Never had any problems like this before.

Thanks for the help, and I will be going in the am to get a new hose.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Did the top link work to full retraction and extension? Lets hope that air is all that it is-was.

 

[Martian]

Did the top link work to full retraction and extension? Lets hope that air is all that it is-was.

The top link was working perfectly. I'm thinking it must have just been air in the top set of remotes, hoping at least. I'll find a hose tomorrow and be sure though! Thanks for the help Brian.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The top link was working perfectly. I'm thinking it must have just been air in the top set of remotes, hoping at least. I'll find a hose tomorrow and be sure though! Thanks for the help Brian.

I know that it was working properly with the remotes controlled by the loader joy stick, but does it work properly hooked up to the valve that had been giving you trouble with the ripper bar? Trying to confirm just air in the lines or is there some sort of problem with the valve? :confused3:

 

[jenkinsph]

The top link was working perfectly. I'm thinking it must have just been air in the top set of remotes, hoping at least. I'll find a hose tomorrow and be sure though! Thanks for the help Brian.

Martian, sometimes you just have to trust us. :laughing: