Deere 110 with BB1284 box blade, not working properly?

AKfish · Mar 5, 2012

Martian said:
Sorry, I think I'm confused. How would the TL adjustment help? The hook or clamp is controlled by the ripper cylinder, once it goes all the way down the rippers stop, but the clamp keeps going to lock it in to prevent the rippers from being forced back by the cylinder alone not stopping it. Part of the problem is the cylinder won't take it all the way down to latch. Maybe we're talking about two different things?

No... I'm likely the confused party. I don't own a hyd box blade - so, I'm going on what visually appears to be out of sync between the position of the clamp when the BB is on the 3120 versus the clamp position on the 110.

But, we're talking about the same thing. If the cylinder won't go all the way (retract) that would account for the clamp position differences between the 3120 and the 110.

Steve has the identical model you've got - so, he's probably had a similar experience with the cylinder as you're currently experiencing.

AKfish

Zebrafive · Mar 5, 2012

Would looping a hose (in place of the ripper cylinder lines) expedite getting the air out of the tractors system?

Martian · Mar 5, 2012

Just dinked around with the box blade for the last hour. Did what you told me Steve, no luck. Probably went up and down 50 times over a couple minutes, didn't budge one way or another any further than where it was at. So then I went and took the BB off and put it back on the 3120 and put it all the way up to see if it would give full motion, after I relieved the pressure it was only sagging about an inch. Put it back on the 110 and now it goes all the way forward and back, except for about an inch. It wouldn't bother me at all, but it doesn't go the extra inch to latch it and I'd be afraid that while ripping the hydraulic cylinder alone wouldn't hold the rippers there. I'm starting to question whether it is air in the system because now I've got a lot more motion than I did before. It opens and closes with authority, the only problem is it doesn't go that inch all the way up, which doesn't bother me, but it doesn't push it all the way down to latch it.

AKfish,

I understand what your saying, I thought the same thing when I first saw the blades. The TL and the rippers are not connected though. There is a separate cylinder. But that cylinder doesn't open or close all the way far enough to allow the box blade's rippers to fully open or close.

catdozer · Mar 5, 2012

Not very familiar but can you switch the hoses for the box blade with your sidelink or toplink. And see if you get the same motion as before

Martian · Mar 5, 2012

catdozer said:
Not very familiar but can you switch the hoses for the box blade with your sidelink or toplink. And see if you get the same motion as before

I could do that, just didn't feel like dealing with switching them. For some reason the quick connects on the 110 are being a real PITA. If it must be, I can switch them around, but I like the way it's set up right now. A lot smoother than having the top and tilt work for the joystick and the ripper for the 3rd function.

catdozer · Mar 5, 2012

Martian said:
I could do that, just didn't feel like dealing with switching them. For some reason the quick connects on the 110 are being a real PITA. If it must be, I can switch them around, but I like the way it's set up right now. A lot smoother than having the top and tilt work for the joystick and the ripper for the 3rd function.

I would try, since it works on your 3120. Just switch the lines, if the TNT works the lines should work for the boxblade

AKfish · Mar 5, 2012

Martian said:
I could do that, just didn't feel like dealing with switching them. For some reason the quick connects on the 110 are being a real PITA. If it must be, I can switch them around, but I like the way it's set up right now. A lot smoother than having the top and tilt work for the joystick and the ripper for the 3rd function.

Yeah... having those additional 3 rear SCV's is really a sweet option.. but, they're tucked back in a location that is really a PITA!!!

I looked at the Kubota layout and thought it was UGLY - but, it's really EASY to connect and disconnect hyd lines!

Martian, is it possible that the hyd cylinder is not the correct one? Stroke length is insufficient? Or is the shaft still not fully retracting - indicating a continued problem with air, etc. in the hyd system?

AKfish

Thought about what I had just asked... Duh..!! Same cylinder with both tractors - one works, other - nada.

Martian · Mar 5, 2012

AKfish said:
Yeah... having those additional 3 rear SCV's is really a sweet option.. but, they're tucked back in a location that is really a PITA!!! I looked at the Kubota layout and thought it was UGLY - but, it's really EASY to connect and disconnect hyd lines!

Martian, is it possible that the hyd cylinder is not the correct one? Stroke length is insufficient? Or is the shaft still not fully retracting - indicating a continued problem with air, etc. in the hyd system?

AKfish

Thought about what I had just asked... Duh..!! Same cylinder with both tractors - one works, other - nada.

Just a little troublesome getting my hand in there. And I agree Kubotas set up is great for access, but very ugly. Looks like a sloppily done aftermarket job. Not to mention there 3rd function joystick isn't nearly as nice. Ok, so I may be a little biased

I think I'll be bugging the dealer tomorrow about this one. Doesn't seem like air, but who knows.

Before I try it, what would throwing the switch for the continuous flow do? Just a quick on/off to see if it would get any air further out? Or is that a bad idea?

jenkinsph · Mar 5, 2012

Zebrafive said:
Would looping a hose (in place of the ripper cylinder lines) expedite getting the air out of the tractors system?

BINGO! I considered posting this last night but thought Martian wouldn't have to go that far. If still having problems thats what I would do next.

jenkinsph · Mar 5, 2012

Martian said:
Just a little troublesome getting my hand in there. And I agree Kubotas set up is great for access, but very ugly. Looks like a sloppily done aftermarket job. Not to mention there 3rd function joystick isn't nearly as nice. Ok, so I may be a little biased

I think I'll be bugging the dealer tomorrow about this one. Doesn't seem like air, but who knows.

Before I try it, what would throwing the switch for the continuous flow do? Just a quick on/off to see if it would get any air further out? Or is that a bad idea?

If it works without issue on the 3x20 machine I am reasonably certain the issue is air in the lines.