Deere 110 with BB1284 box blade, not working properly?

[Zebrafive]

As far as the quick connects for the loader go, I would want the 3/4" because that's what I got in the back and if I ever needed to move a cylinder with the backhoe on, it would be much simpler and easier.

How are you determining you have 3/4" couplers?

You should have 1/2". ISO Series A. Couplers.

The first diameter for the 1/2" body size ISO Series A male tip will measure 13/16"

The first diameter for the 3/4" body size ISO Series A male tip wil measure
1 1/8"

 

[Martian]

Maybe I heard wrong, but when I got the hose made they said 3/4". I'll check when I get home, I believe it said it on the quick connect.

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

I wouldn't get too excited over the new diverter. As Steve said it's rebuildable. So any dealer worth his salt is gonna pull it out and rebuild the internals. And there's nothing too expensive inside. The only way I could see the whole unit needing replacement is if something scored the block itself.

And if you decide it's all too much to take. I'll hitch up the trailer and come pick up the 110.:laughing:

Matt

 

[Martian]

I got back out to the barn and tried some things out. When I switch it, it is more of a tick, sutler then a thunk, and it does not vibrate the tractor. I put the grapple on and put the power to the rear and it really jumped when the power was supposed to be diverted to the rear.

I did find on the male quick connect that I have it says 3/4 inch. Maybe it means something else?

I did look at those bolts underneath, but I wasn't sure what you wanted me to do with them. I didn't want to tighten them if I wasn't supposed. They were all there, though.

Matt, you'll have to wait a whole longer to get this thing. I haven't given up yet I'm probably making a bigger deal out of this than it is. Most of what I'll be doing is with the backhoe, it works perfect and for the little I'll use it this year I've gotten along this long without a top n tilt or a hydraulic box blade, so I think I could make it while longer, I just want it to work...

 

[AKfish]

You may (for the third on the loader) want to look into the MultiCoupler that uses a lever and cam system to hook up the hydraulics. I saw that set up on a JD 673 loader. The brand used by JD is Faster. Their website has a catalog of just multiCouplers.

Hmm.. I've got that hyd couple system on my 563SL loader. Might be something to look into.. I want to use the root grapple on both tractors.

AKfish

 

[AKfish]

I got back out to the barn and tried some things out. When I switch it, it is more of a tick, sutler then a thunk, and it does not vibrate the tractor. I put the grapple on and put the power to the rear and it really jumped when the power was supposed to be diverted to the rear.

Martian, there's another "test" you can try... Switch out the flat-face SS QC's on the grapple and replace them with the JD QC's that are used on the rear mount SCV's

Hook the grapple lines up to the rear SCV's ports and see what happens with the operation of the grapple cylinders.

From your description of the operation of the top link and tilt functions - they're OK. The 3rd SCV function is defective.

The grapple cylinder function would futher verify that observation.

AKfish

 

[Martian]

Martian, there's another "test" you can try... Switch out the flat-face SS QC's on the grapple and replace them with the JD QC's that are used on the rear mount SCV's

Hook the grapple lines up to the rear SCV's ports and see what happens with the operation of the grapple cylinders.

From your description of the operation of the top link and tilt functions - they're OK. The 3rd SCV function is defective.

The grapple cylinder function would futher verify that observation.

AKfish

I do want to swap the grapple's configuration to the standard. Man, that no leak is a PITA. I'll put the "leak" QC, same as in the rear on there and then swap it out, just have to get the parts. Then I can try the cylinders in the front and in the rear. I'm thinking of making up some 3-6" extensions to plug into the ones in the rear as well, that way they'll be nice out in the open to hook up too and easy access for on and off.

 

[Zebrafive]

Hmm.. I've got that hyd couple system on my 563SL loader. Might be something to look into.. I want to use the root grapple on both tractors.

AKfish

Did you get the third function on the 563 loader? If so did JD provide a cuuopler for the implement to match the third function multicoupler on the loader?

 

[Zebrafive]

I got back out to the barn and tried some things out. When I switch it, it is more of a tick, sutler then a thunk, and it does not vibrate the tractor. I put the grapple on and put the power to the rear and it really jumped when the power was supposed to be diverted to the rear.

I did find on the male quick connect that I have it says 3/4 inch. Maybe it means something else?

I did look at those bolts underneath, but I wasn't sure what you wanted me to do with them. I didn't want to tighten them if I wasn't supposed. They were all there, though.

Matt, you'll have to wait a whole longer to get this thing. I haven't given up yet I'm probably making a bigger deal out of this than it is. Most of what I'll be doing is with the backhoe, it works perfect and for the little I'll use it this year I've gotten along this long without a top n tilt or a hydraulic box blade, so I think I could make it while longer, I just want it to work...

Did you measure the OD of the male quick coupler? 3/4" MAY be refering to the thread size?

 

[Zebrafive]

I do want to swap the grapple's configuration to the standard. Man, that no leak is a PITA. I'll put the "leak" QC, same as in the rear on there and then swap it out, just have to get the parts. Then I can try the cylinders in the front and in the rear. I'm thinking of making up some 3-6" extensions to plug into the ones in the rear as well, that way they'll be nice out in the open to hook up too and easy access for on and off.

How about posting a picture of the 3 rear couplers, no way to tell from JDparts where they are located. Curious how how do you plan to extend them?

 

[AKfish]

I do want to swap the grapple's configuration to the standard. Man, that no leak is a PITA. I'll put the "leak" QC, same as in the rear on there and then swap it out, just have to get the parts. Then I can try the cylinders in the front and in the rear. I'm thinking of making up some 3-6" extensions to plug into the ones in the rear as well, that way they'll be nice out in the open to hook up too and easy access for on and off.

You like those SS QC's too!?! Not only are they hard to hook up - they're $40 apiece at my local JD guys!

Just so the SCV's aren't laying on the step platform on the backhoe! :laughing: The rear SCV's have always been a irritation, though. Jammed back into the rear fender and ROPs like that.. gotta be some kind of contortionist or orangutan to get in there to hook/unhook those couplers.

So, some kind of an extension would be a great idea!

AKfish

 

[Martian]

Did you measure the OD of the male quick coupler? 3/4" MAY be refering to the thread size?

I didn't measure anything at all, actually. (lazy me). When I got the hose made for the loop I brought the top link cylinder so they could match it up correctly. They measured the diameter of the male cylinder to be 3/4". Maybe that's not how you actually measure them? I'll take some pics tomorrow.

How about posting a picture of the 3 rear couplers, no way to tell from JDparts where they are located. Curious how how do you plan to extend them?

I'll take a picture of the remotes tomorrow as well, after I take the backhoe off. The problem is that they are buried back into the frame of the tractor and is hard to get your hand in there. All I'd want to do is get 6 male to female QC with hoses 3-6" in length to make it easier to access than being buried back there.

You like those SS QC's too!?! Not only are they hard to hook up - they're $40 apiece at my local JD guys!

Just so the SCV's aren't laying on the step platform on the backhoe! :laughing: The rear SCV's have always been a irritation, though. Jammed back into the rear fender and ROPs like that.. gotta be some kind of contortionist or orangutan to get in there to hook/unhook those couplers.

So, some kind of an extension would be a great idea!

AKfish

A contortionist to get back in there:laughing::laughing::laughing:

You starting to notice something? I don't like hydraulic QC! It's one of those things that is supposed to be easier, but there's times I think that a nice wrench would do the job faster. Just a little extra length to make it easier to get the hand in a spot to connect to the disconnect seems like it would be helpful.

 

[Zebrafive]

Martian

I have a bracket you might be interested in for your three rear SCV coupler move, pretty John Deere green made for 6 couplers.

 

[Martian]

Martian

I have a bracket you might be interested in for your three rear SCV coupler move, pretty John Deere green made for 6 couplers.

That looks really slick, did you make that yourself? I like it, but I'd like to keep the lines flexible so I can get them away from the frame. Theres just no good place for me to mount it where it would be in the open for easy access. I do appreciate the offer, though, thanks!

 

[Zebrafive]

That looks really slick, did you make that yourself? I like it, but I'd like to keep the lines flexible so I can get them away from the frame. Theres just no good place for me to mount it where it would be in the open for easy access. I do appreciate the offer, though, thanks!

No, I did not make it, it's a JD part. Bought it to get the quick couplers that were in it. Needed four to add third function to my loader. Two at the coulper bracket and two at the boom end.

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

Time for and update martian.:licking:

Matt

 

[Martian]

I dinked around all last week trying to find a trailer and save myself $100 delivery, but didn't happen. My trailer is only rated at 5500lb and I wasn't about to snap it in half. A couple friends with trailers as well, but nothing I felt comfortable with. So I called them at the end of last week and said come pick it up. My luck they only have one truck running so it took them till wednesday to pick it up and nothing back since then. They are getting the calcium out of the tires. I PM'd a couple of you and I decided I didn't need it. A couple times I got the front tires off the ground with the BH on and nothing in the front. Probably not a good thing So they are getting the calcium out as I didn't want it all over my barn and getting the remotes fixed. The owner of the dealership did confirm all of your hypothesis, though. Made me question if he'd been reading the thread because he said everything mentioned here! If I don't hear anything back I'll pop in and see what's going on.

Finally got nice weather, but the tractor is missing! I've got some nasty shrubs in front of the house that are killing me to pop them out with the backhoe.

And the trailer situation is reminding me I need a trailer. Looked up rental prices and are around $100. I'm going to try and sell my trailer now and go from there. I'm going to go take a look at a couple I've found tomorrow as well. Don't want to spend the money, but will have to see about a price for the trailer on trade in as well.

 

[Zebrafive]

Isn't the dealer close enough to drive the tractor to?

 

[Martian]

Isn't the dealer close enough to drive the tractor to?

I guess I could. About 10 mile straight shot down the road, but it would take a long time. It's not much of a back road and no slow moving vehicle sign. I didn't want to push it. It's there now and I'll have something to move it soon enough.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I guess I could. About 10 mile straight shot down the road, but it would take a long time. It's not much of a back road and no slow moving vehicle sign. I didn't want to push it. It's there now and I'll have something to move it soon enough.

That 110 should travel at 15MPH . 10 miles, about 40 minutes, SMV sign about $10, new trailer to haul tractor to dealer $1000s.