Bolens G154/Iseki TX1300F hydraulic help needed

[NHmitch]

Hi,

I am new to the forum, and its great to meet everyone and see that there are fellow tractor owners/enthusiasts on here. So I have a Bolens G154/Iseki TX1300f 4WD tractor. I am looking at installing a front end loader, and a wood splitter, however there are no hydraulic ports.

I hear that you there may be ports under the seat where the control arm is for the 3 point hitch hydraulics. I know that it is possible to tie into the high pressure line, but I would rather not cut the original factory line if I can help it.

Does anyone know a way to do this?

Thanks!

Andrew Mitchell

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

I can't answer your question completely, but I know there is an adapter block you can insert under the seat off the main hydraulics that will take the high pressure stream to an open-center hydraulic spool block. I will be picking up a G172 this summer that has hydraulics and will attempt to make a print of the adapter block but that will be some time out. I would imagine these adapter blocks, although not complicated, are not readily available anymore. You may be able to contact some of the few remaining parts suppliers to acquire one, most likely used if any. Plan on it not being cheap.

 

[NHmitch]

Thanks so much for the help!! I would really appreciate that when you get the tractor! Thats great you get to pick up a G172 this summer. Thats a great machine!

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Thanks so much for the help!! I would really appreciate that when you get the tractor! Thats great you get to pick up a G172 this summer. Thats a great machine!

I picked it up as a parts tractor mainly for the engine. I am going to attempt to swap engines between it and a Iseki TX1300F (Bolens G154). The motor runs good according to a friend who is holding it for me. The engine in the 1300 has compression issues that will require new pistons and rings to correct and I decided it would be easier just to swap motors instead of dealing with repair of the motor as it has already been gone through and sleeved with poor results by a former owner (gray-market repair specialist).

The G172 came with a front blower and associated hydraulics so those were some added bonuses. I'd ask around at the parts suppliers for an adapter block to keep your project(s) moving. Even when I can pattern the adapter (a low priority on my list sorry) you'll need machining capabilities to fabricate it and unless you know somebody or have your own machine shop it will be fairly expensive to have a commercial shop build you one.

 

[63DH8]

I recently picked up a rolled donor G154 for it's loader. I'll take a few pictures of the block and post them if you still need the pictures. I can also take measurements if you need them too.

 

[NHmitch]

I recently picked up a rolled donor G154 for it's loader. I'll take a few pictures of the block and post them if you still need the pictures. I can also take measurements if you need them too.

That would be great if you wouldn't mind, I am really hesitant to cut into the existing hydraulic lines, so I would like some type of a guide of what to look for. Thanks so much!!

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

You shouldn't need to "cut into" any hydraulic lines to make this work. Everything should be bolted/use fittings.

 

[amanda11270]

I picked up that block as part of a plow setup I bought from another forum member. Before I did the block was still available, but it was pricey. I was gonna buy just that block and build my own plow hydraulic setup. It has been a while since this, but the place I think that had it was Ray's mower service in Boyertown PA (I think). The piece is triangular with machined surfaces and insets for two oring seals with fittings for two hydraulic lines coming out. The price two years ago was, hold on to your hat, like $285. If you search the forum I had an older post that someone snapped a photo of this piece for me when I was looking for it, because I was ready to cut the existing hydraulic lines also to make live hyd. on my machine. It was dumb luck I got the whole plow setup with the live hydraulics levers and all, as I didnt know how rare this stuff was til I owned my tractor for a while.

 

[NHmitch]

Thanks so much for the help! I found the thread with the photo of the block. I also called Ray's but I have not heard back yet. They were checking to see if they still have this, and if it will work with the 2 cylinder model. That would be a huge help. It s still cheaper than an alternative of a PTO pump, that I have been considering. Do you know roughly how many GPM the factory pump produces? I want to use the hydraulics for a wood splitter, and possibly a hydraulic toplink. Thanks again!!

Mitch

 

[284 International]

?.. Do you know roughly how many GPM the factory pump produces? I want to use the hydraulics for a wood splitter, and possibly a hydraulic toplink.

I have seen references saying that the G154 uses the same replacement pump as a Satoh S650. I have read that tractor has an output of 4.1 gallons per minute. However, one of my Yanmars of equivalent size to your Bolens takes a replacement pump with 75% more output than OEM. Tractordata.com says the G154 pump outputs 3 GPM, more in line with what I would expect. Either way, the log splitters I have seen use pumps that output more than 10 GPM, well over double even the maximum output of even the larger pump.

I think a PTO powered pump would be a much more reasonable option for having tolerable speeds out of a splitter.

 

[NHmitch]

Thanks for the advise. That does actually make very good sense. I was looking at PTO pumps that produce around 21gpm, however I m not sure if you have to use a separate hydraulics reservoir, or if you can connect directly to the splitter, from the pto pump.The other side issue I have, is I am so unsure about weather or not I want to even tamper with the existing hydraulic set up that I have. I is a closed system, and I worry about opening up this system that has been running flawlessly for years, and introduce foreign matter. Having that said, It would also be really nice to save about $350+ on the prie or PTO pump, and use my existing hydraulics. I have been looking at the country line 3 point splitter at TSC, and it appears to be a beast. I also looked at one I liked at northern tool, and their splitter cannot handle over 6.6 gpm, so that would be out of the question if I use a pto with a higher flow rate. I know that most of the rates that they provide are at 550rmp, but will they operate safely at higher pto speeds? I have a three speed pto, that was US compliant, and 550 is the slowest. I didn't know if I ran one of these PTO pumps at say, 1000rpm, will I have faster returns on the splitter, and greater ram force, or could it damage the unit?

Thanks for your help.

This is the unit I think that I am going to get;

This is the one from northern tool:

 

[284 International]

The manual for the County Line version shows a 28.3 second cycle time, at 5 GPM. That would work out to a 47.2 second cycle at 3 GPM. The tractor only outputs 3 GPM at full throttle, so at reduced throttle settings it will go even slower than that.

I think this is why the standalone units use 2 stage pumps. Prince shows their PTO pumps being specified to run at 110% rated speed. I imagine they would run fine at higher RPM, but the trouble would be your tractor can't supply the power to run that volume of flow at high pressures. Prince shows their 7.1 GPM pump takes 11.9 hp to run at 2000 PSI, probably all the tractor could do. That would get cycle times down to 20-ish seconds.

Even the largest 2 stage pump sold at surplus center puts out under 3 GPM at your 1185 PTO RPM on the high pressure side. Being able to run it at the rated 3600 RPM would give 7/28 GPM high/low.

For my money, I would probably just buy a gas powered version if looking at new units. The convenience of speed would be worth it to me, but that may not be a deciding factor for you. By the time you source the $520 pump and torque arm, you have equalled the cost of a more powerful, faster splitter.

 

[63DH8]

Sorry for taking so long to get back to you with this. A friend's son died, then my girlfriend ended up in the hospital with an aneurism.

Snapbucket :: G picture by Allen63DH8 - Photobucket

*The empty hole is where your present hydraulic bolt goes. The bolt on the block in the picture is where your hydraulic line goes.

 

[suntreemcanic]

A rule of thumb is it takes one horse power to produce one gallon of flow at 1,000 PSI. If you increase pressure to 2,000 PSI it takes 2 horse power.

 

[NHmitch]

Thanks so much for the photo! That block would work perfectly, I just have to find one now. Thank you everyone else for the great information, and all of the help. My wife is pretty dead set on getting a 3 point splitter, probably her idea of justifying the tractor. The other question I had, is if I cannot find a block, and I hope that I can *fingers crossed*, I will try to buy a pto hydraulic pump, but how does that work with a splitter, do I have to buy a separate reservoir? If so, that seems pretty expensive, the look like they run about $180 and up for the reservoir alone, and the pump is about $325 plus shipping. I may jest be better off doing what I don't want to, and cutting into the high pressure line. I think that due to the tractor only operating at 15HP, and at 1185 RPM at the rear PTO, I will probably go with the 13 ton splitter from Northern Tool. I want the wood splitter from Tractor Supply, but it may be too large for the tractor. 284 International had very good information about the capabilities. The splitter from Northern tool has very good ratings, and is $100 less. Anyways, thanks again for all the help!

Mitch

 

[lens12]

Using tractor hydraulics will be slow. I've hooked up several splitters for people that way. If you use a pto pump you will need a reservoir. You could us e the tractor rearend as your reservoir. I would only do that if you were using a universal /hydraulic transmission fluid in the tractor.

 

[Dave Colantuoni]

I have a ISEKI 2140F TX1510 all most the identical tractor
It has a FEL connected to transmission / 3 point lift pump.
If you want the 3 point to also run,
You'll need to make sure your FEL control block
has a High and Low pressure return line.
Pluming is confusing.
I'm in NH if you want to see setup or I can send pix.

DaveColantuoni @ Yahoo . Com

Hi,

I am new to the forum, and its great to meet everyone and see that there are fellow tractor owners/enthusiasts on here. So I have a Bolens G154/Iseki TX1300f 4WD tractor. I am looking at installing a front end loader, and a wood splitter, however there are no hydraulic ports.

I hear that you there may be ports under the seat where the control arm is for the 3 point hitch hydraulics. I know that it is possible to tie into the high pressure line, but I would rather not cut the original factory line if I can help it.

Does anyone know a way to do this?

Thanks!

Andrew Mitchell

 

[NHmitch]

I have a ISEKI 2140F TX1510 all most the identical tractor
It has a FEL connected to transmission / 3 point lift pump.
If you want the 3 point to also run,
You'll need to make sure your FEL control block
has a High and Low pressure return line.
Pluming is confusing.
I'm in NH if you want to see setup or I can send pix.

DaveColantuoni @ Yahoo . Com

Dave,
Thanks so much!! It would be helpful to see the set up, since I am going to eventually, probably by the end of the summer, attempt this. That would be great to see it in person, I'll have to stay in touch, because I will be in your area probably in the next few weeks. Thanks again, what year is your Bolens? I have a lot of resources for parts if you need them, and as you can see, I also bought new decals for mine, so there is a lot out there, Thanks again!

 

[284 International]

Another alternative may be to use a crankshaft mounted two stage pump. I bought my backhoe from a guy who had an Iseki with a single stage auxiliary pump to run the loader and backhoe. It was attached to the weight bracket/bumper, and used a Lovejoy-style adapter.

A two stage pump should work equally well. Some creativity in mounting systems may let you get a permanent female coupling off the end of the crankshaft, and then a pin-on or bolt on auxiliary pump that uses a reservoir on the three point splitter. Surplus center has a 28 GPM 2 stage pump for $230 plus shipping, which would output around 20 GPM on the low pressure side at 2600 engine RPM, and about 5 GPM on the high pressure side.

I know nothing about log splitting, especially with a three point style unit. Even 20 seconds each direction seems like a really long time to wait to cycle. Maybe I'm just impatient, or have no idea how long it takes to buck logs.

 

[Dave Colantuoni]

Mitch,

Contact me on Yahoo any time.
My tractor is a true Iseki not a Bolens re-brand.
It is an Iseki 2140F (TX1510) with 3cyl Mitsubishi K3A engine
with a FEL and frame mount Hoe.
It's equivalent to the later Bolens G154 tx1504
I'm guessing (only a guess) its a late 80's early 90's

Here are some pix/vid links

https://picasaweb.google.com/diesel.dave.c/ISEKI_2140

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmopsqZBM50]tractor_movie.mov - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vw2SkNnK8Q4]Iseki 2140 Tractor moving snow Jan 2011 - YouTube[/ame]

BTW: I fairly familiar with these tractors,
I use to own a early Bolens TX1500 2cly Iseki engine
with out FEL or Hoe

Dave C.



Dave,
Thanks so much!! It would be helpful to see the set up, since I am going to eventually, probably by the end of the summer, attempt this. That would be great to see it in person, I'll have to stay in touch, because I will be in your area probably in the next few weeks. Thanks again, what year is your Bolens? I have a lot of resources for parts if you need them, and as you can see, I also bought new decals for mine, so there is a lot out there, Thanks again!