Help with soil prep for tree planting.

[mysteryman896]

I have a little over 100 trees to plant this April. I have everything from evergreens, to apple trees, to hardwoods. My question is what is the best way to prepare for this? I do not have a post hole digger but i plan on looking into rental costs. The equipment i currently have is; JD6200, Kubota L48 TLB, 2 row plow, and a rear tine walk behind rototiller. I have other attachments but i think that's all that could possibly be used to help plant trees.

Is a post hole digger quickest and best or is something i have sufficient? could i take a scoop out with the backhoe and put it right back in the hole, the run the rototiller through? the trees will be in the 3' overall length upon arrival so im guessing 1.5-2' tree and 1-1.5' of root system.

Thanks

 

[forgeblast]

This is the way I did my crep planting.
I sprayed roundup in a 15x15 grid. Then where the grids intersected I dug a hole. I pulled out all the rocks and left the pile of dirt next to the hole. I would normally dig 25-30 holes in a couple of hourse(I planted over 200 trees). Then when I had all the holes dug I could go and plant all my trees in one day. I also tubed (tubex)and staked my trees to keep the voles and deer off of them. I am going into my second full year of the planting I am allowed to spray for the last year around the tubes(about a 4' diam circle around the tubes) and spray any invasives that are in the planting area. I spray at night to avoid hitting the bees.
I did buy some of those 2yo tablets that you throw in the hole and they fertalize a tree for two years. I also kept peat moss on hand incase I ran out of dirt to backfill.
Also keep the trees in a bucket of water when planting.
there is a saying buy a $10 dollar tree dig a $100.00 hole. Make sure its deep enough and no rocks you will be good.

 

[mysteryman896]

Thanks!! I guess i need to get out there with some round up this weekend as well as start digging holes. I was also curious how important the tubes were, i guess i need to get those ordered or find a local place to buy.

can you describe the roundup spry grid a little better for me? i plan on a grid for the trees themselves but the spray grid im not following. did you sray a full 15x15 patch with roundup and have the tree planted in the center of that patch?

 

[mjw357]

A friend of mine who has a landscape business prefers backhoe or hand digging for trees. he says the augered holes get 'polished' sides that are hard for the roots to break through. had lots of trees die that way, tree would look healthy then after about a year or two the tree would just die.

 

[mysteryman896]

Thanks mjw, that advise plays perfect to the equipment i already have.

 

[Michelle K linnane]

I am curious what is your soil type sandy, heavy claw, or deep loam?

 

[mysteryman896]

The soil tends to be a loamy surface and then a clay subsoil.

found this online:
Conestoga Valley
Limestone-derived soils predominate in the Conestoga Valley section. These soils are comparable to those in the valleys of the Ridge and Valley province. They have a silt loam surface texture and a clayey subsurface horizon. They are well drained. The landscape is level to undulating, and erosion potential is low. Rock fragments are scarce, and the root zone available waterholding capacity is high. The growing season is long. These are productive soils that are used intensively for agriculture.

 

[forgeblast]

Sorry should have been more clear about the grid. My crep guys also said other people did it wrong but thankfully I did it right.
I would mark 15' and spray to my next mark, but only spraying about 1-2' wide. this way you have "stripes" so you know where to dig. If you nuke it all you cant tell where your dig points are.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/167255-crp-planting.html
shows my planting.
I will have to get an updated picture, I have some of my oaks about 7' tall now.

 

[BeezFun]

A friend of mine who has a landscape business prefers backhoe or hand digging for trees. he says the augered holes get 'polished' sides that are hard for the roots to break through. had lots of trees die that way, tree would look healthy then after about a year or two the tree would just die.

Ditto on that. I use my PHD to drill three holes right together to loosen soil, then use a shovel to finish perimeter of hole and toss the dirt out. If I had a backhoe I'd use that, much better way to do it than PHD.

 

[Ranger Rick]

Are these trees one year old seedlings? If they are you can plant them by making a hole with a digging bar or mattock if your ground is soft enough. Jab the digging bar into the ground and pry a wedge shape opening in the ground. Stick the roots into the ground and push the tree in deeper then the it would need to be and then pull up the where the soil level is. The ends of the roots want to drag behind going down and going deeper and pulling back up straightens them out.
After you get the tree at the proper level take your digging bar and at an angle thrust it into the ground a couple of inches away from the tree and pry toward the tree to squeeze the soil around the tree closed. Keep the trees soaking in a bucket of water as you go around planting them. This link shows it better then I described it. http://www.uaex.edu/Other_Areas/publications/PDF/FSA-5007.pdf
Rick