Price Check Pricing between dk40/dk45/dk50

[phiferpharm]

I went to the Kioti Dealer today and was offered a DK40se HST with loader for 19K. I am thinking it is a good price and think I'm gonna let her rip on the deal. It does drive nice, especially if your use to a non-synco manual tranny :thumbsup:

 

[murphy1244]

That is a great price, go for it! See if he will throw in parts and service manuals.:thumbsup:

 

[IslandTractor]

I went to the Kioti Dealer today and was offered a DK40se HST with loader for 19K. I am thinking it is a good price and think I'm gonna let her rip on the deal. It does drive nice, especially if your use to a non-synco manual tranny :thumbsup:

Seems like a very good price. I recall paying only about $1500 less almost five years ago and there have been a number of price increases since.

Before you close the deal see what he can do for loading tires and adding a second rear remote. A sunshade is also useful in both sun and rain.

 

[k0ua]

Uh that would be a heck of a good price up here. Better bite on that one.

James K0UA

 

[phiferpharm]

Gotcha. I don't want to hijack the original poster's thread, so I'll crank up a new one after he gets back to me tomorrow. I told him I still wanted to drive a JD 4105 and Kubota L3940 HST. I'll hit with that after I tell him how much I enjoyed driving either the Green or other orange tractor

 

[CJONE]

What is this about "20+ GPM" from the hydraulic pump? 16.8 GPM is the published figure if I recall correctly.

I spin my tires pushing into dirt piles or against trees while using a 41hp DK40se at less than PTO speed in four wheel assist. How exactly will extra horsepower help me?

Your 16.8 is the hydraulic pump not the hydrostat. The hydrostat is 2.3 CU I believe. 2.3 x rpm 2400 = 20+ GPM x 5000psi = 67 hp, DEPENDING ON PUMP STROKE, THEN add the 10 GPM for the loader you are using at the same time when moving dirt at 2500 PSI, that is roughly 15 HP Then add the 6.8 GPM at lets say 1000psi for the steering and charge pump roughly 5 hp. Sooo this all adds up if you are just using your drive wheels to push in low the added HP will make no difference but when you add the combined hp for the loader and possibly moving dirt uphill then the loss of HP for A/C that is where HP makes a difference. So in my case I can use midrange instead of lowrange for the majority of my dirtwork, I can get it done faster will less expense to the customer as well. CJ

 

[CJONE]

I went to the Kioti Dealer today and was offered a DK40se HST with loader for 19K. I am thinking it is a good price and think I'm gonna let her rip on the deal. It does drive nice, especially if your use to a non-synco manual tranny :thumbsup:

You will love the hystat, 4 loader work and forks it can't b beat. CJ

 

[IslandTractor]

Your 16.8 is the hydraulic pump not the hydrostat. The hydrostat is 2.3 CU I believe. 2.3 x rpm 2400 = 20+ GPM x 5000psi = 67 hp, DEPENDING ON PUMP STROKE, THEN add the 10 GPM for the loader you are using at the same time when moving dirt at 2500 PSI, that is roughly 15 HP Then add the 6.8 GPM at lets say 1000psi for the steering and charge pump roughly 5 hp. Sooo this all adds up if you are just using your drive wheels to push in low the added HP will make no difference but when you add the combined hp for the loader and possibly moving dirt uphill then the loss of HP for A/C that is where HP makes a difference. So in my case I can use midrange instead of lowrange for the majority of my dirtwork, I can get it done faster will less expense to the customer as well. CJ

I do use low in 4wd when pushing on a tree trunk or digging with FEL or tilling but I use mid range for most everything else (mowing, travelling with full bucket etc) and have never thought I lacked power with the 40. I can "climb" a hill in high range on a dirt road fast enough that it is uncomfortable due to bouncing so that hasn't been a power limitation either. It just seems to me that there are relatively few times that the extra 4 or 8hp really come into play so a prospective owner should think carefully about whether the 2% of tasks that might be done more slowly with a 40 really make up for the $1000-3000 extra you would have to pay for the 45 or 50. I rarely operate at full PTO power and have simply never thought lack of horsepower was an issue. The extra 3-4hp needed for A/C could be an issue for some (lots of mid summer mowing) but otherwise I don't see how the extra cost is much benefit. For most of us, a 40 plus an extra implement or two is going to be a more efficient work tool for the same budget.

 

[kiotiken]

... It just seems to me that there are relatively few times that the extra 4 or 8hp really come into play so a prospective owner should think carefully about whether the 2% of tasks that might be done more slowly with a 40 really make up for the $1000-3000 extra you would have to pay for the 45 or 50. ...The extra 3-4hp needed for A/C could be an issue for some ...

IT, I appreciate your argument, and I don't mean to minimize $1000 - $3000 or so dollars, but the way I looked at it when I was shopping was that my tractor was a 20+yr purchase and that the extra cost ($700 in my case) was well worth it over that time period. The upgrade to the next level in hp in my case was another $2000, and for me, that wasn't worth it to me, I would have had to drop the bh. So, the extra hp / extra cost is more of a personal comfort thing really. To some, $2000 is a trip to Costco and to others it's an extra year of payments. Again, I've been told up to 7hp for A/C, and that would make a big difference.

 

[CJONE]

I do use low in 4wd when pushing on a tree trunk or digging with FEL or tilling but I use mid range for most everything else (mowing, travelling with full bucket etc) and have never thought I lacked power with the 40. I can "climb" a hill in high range on a dirt road fast enough that it is uncomfortable due to bouncing so that hasn't been a power limitation either. It just seems to me that there are relatively few times that the extra 4 or 8hp really come into play so a prospective owner should think carefully about whether the 2% of tasks that might be done more slowly with a 40 really make up for the $1000-3000 extra you would have to pay for the 45 or 50. I rarely operate at full PTO power and have simply never thought lack of horsepower was an issue. The extra 3-4hp needed for A/C could be an issue for some (lots of mid summer mowing) but otherwise I don't see how the extra cost is much benefit. For most of us, a 40 plus an extra implement or two is going to be a more efficient work tool for the same budget.

Yup I agree with you that in your case it is 2% but I know that in my case it is around 80%. That is why I stated it depends on the circumstances. For the first time on Sunday I helped a friend move logs around and did not lug the tractor down but 1 time going up a steep hill in clay. HP did not matter in this case. When Bob and Diane dropped my tractor off he said I made a good choice with the 50 because of the terrain around my house and I agree with him after using the tractor. Now to be 100% honest I have no idea how the tractor will react to using the PTO. I don't have any pto driven equipment, yet. A snowblower will be next and I know HP is key to a blower. CJ