the shop i talked to today will not try to straighten only make a new one. quoted me $500 and when i told him i could get an entire new piece he came down to $350.. i asked him a bunch of questions and left it at that.. i need to do some more calling but today was too busy to spend any more time at it. i need to get it done though. my problem is i don't really have any big tools (like to take the cap/gland off) and it seems like i need a press or something to get the rod out..
Backhoe bh75 dipper rod bent
- Thread starter bigballer
- Start date
- Views: 12912
wdchyd
Elite Member
many shops won't straighten cuz they can break and fly off the press....
But it's worth the try if you can get ahold of a press and use alum sheet metal scraps to protect the chrome
You won't need a press for getting the rod out, just a pipe wrench and possible a cheater pipe to go on......extend the rod all the way out and leave the base end of the cyl pinned (it will give you a solid way of unscrewing the gland)
Maybe you could buy a raw piece of chrome stock like Kcender and have someone make the rod for you
But it's worth the try if you can get ahold of a press and use alum sheet metal scraps to protect the chrome
You won't need a press for getting the rod out, just a pipe wrench and possible a cheater pipe to go on......extend the rod all the way out and leave the base end of the cyl pinned (it will give you a solid way of unscrewing the gland)
Maybe you could buy a raw piece of chrome stock like Kcender and have someone make the rod for you
ok, removing the rod makes more sense nowii can attach the barrel end back on the hoe and use it to hold the end in place while i crank on it with a big pipe wrench (my neighbor probably has one i can use).. i just posted some questions around that, so can disregard unless more info needs to be offered.
much appreciated!
wdchyd
Elite Member
Just make sure the rod is extended all the way out (pull out or use the hydraulics to power it out), cuz the gland will be giving you resistance if not....
The rod should twist in the gland without much trouble before you unscrew it
The rod should twist in the gland without much trouble before you unscrew it
ok thanks, will give that a try, also i just realized after looking at my manual that it's the bucket cylinder not the dipper cylinder like i thought. i tried twisting it but it doesn't want to budge. i think because it's partially retracted and probably binding inside against the wall..
wdchyd
Elite Member
Exactly....:thumbsup:
kcender
Platinum Member
Sorry guys,didn't think to take pictures as I was doing it but the bend looked almost identical to the OP's except mine was bent toward the dipper stick.I am happy to report that I just finished putting everything back together and it seems to be working fine with no leaks,I should get a chance to do some digging with it tomorrow.
kcender, thanks for your posts, this helps my situation, i am going to attempt this myself at least taking it apart to assess the damage. i took it to a hydraulic shop today and repair estimate came to $450. that is new rod built from stock, seals, and rehoning (i think that is what he called it) the barrel. i balked and hopped over the dealer which by the looks of their shop was not suprised at the quote (over $600) to repair. my feeling is they priced it to get me to just buy a new one as not to have to deal with it. a new complete is $585.
once i get it apart i will post up some pics and get some opinions from you guys on next steps..
once i get it apart i will post up some pics and get some opinions from you guys on next steps..
kcender
Platinum Member
Good luck with the repair.I am certainly no expert on hydraulics but I used my backhoe with a bent rod for about a year and a half with no damage to the gland so I am thinking yours should be fine as well.All the hydraulic shop recommended was new seals for it which were about 10 dollars.The shop I talked to said it would take about 2 to 3 hours to make a new rod at 65 dollars per hour,this was for machining and welding.It seems like you are getting high prices to me.
kcender
Platinum Member
I should also add that I have put about 10 hours on the backhoe since the repair and everything is working fine with no leaks.Hopefully yours will do the same.
Gary Fowler
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2008
- Messages
- 11,998
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- Bismarck Arkansas
- Tractor
- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
OK, so where is the bend, it looks straight in the photos. If you can see the bow, now that you have it disassembled, I would maybe try a press to see if it would straighten as it doesnt look bent enought to matter. As long as there is not any dings in it from contact with the trailer hitch, I would put it back together and use it till the seals went bad which might be a long long time as it doesnt look like much.
Might look into an insurance claim of fixing or replacing it also.
Might look into an insurance claim of fixing or replacing it also.
crazyal
Super Member
I would replace the rod and get a seal kit and put it back together. The repair kit for my 580k includes a new bushing for the gland nut, hopefully the Kubota does as well. I wouldn't bother with honing or any of that other nonsense. You could try to have it straightened, it's not bent too badly but only if the cost is not close to having the rod replaced.
Deano
Veteran Member
I agree, worth a try.
wdchyd
Elite Member
While you have it out it would take about 5 minutes to straighten that with a press and alum shim (and dial indicator if you have one) .....
It may work as seen but you run the risk of damaging the bore in the barrel if it scuffs internally due to the piston cocking sideways...
It may work as seen but you run the risk of damaging the bore in the barrel if it scuffs internally due to the piston cocking sideways...
Found a helpful shop that used a press, alum blocking, and dial indicator to straighten. Cost $30. I did order a new seal kit but am going to clean up and reassemble using original seals. If it starts leaking down the road I'll put the new seals in. There are a couple small nicks on the rod but hopefully they do not affect performance. When I put it back together do I need to pre fill or can I just install retracted and use hydraulics to fill it?
crazyal
Super Member
I've never filled them first. Just put it together with a little oil on the seals and then just work the hydraulics to get the air out.
Deano
Veteran Member
Let us know how it works out!
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