Bent Top Cylinder Rod

[MtnViewRanch]

I think this is another place where an HTL could be run in the float position!:laughing:

Unfortunately there are many many tractors that do not have the float option with their rear remotes and or they have a DPOCV on their HTL and a float position does not work with that setup.

 

[greg_g]

x2. Of the 5 tractors I've owned, none had rear hydraulic remotes capable of "floating" a HTL. That's because the rears are typically controlled by a conventional 3-way/4-position valve. To have "float" at those remotes, you'd need a 4-way/4-position control valve. And even if a tractor has a float control valve at the operator seat, it doesn't mean that the feature is extended to the rear remotes. On my John Deere for example, a front loader and mid-mount mower can be set to float, but not the rear SCVs. Any float capability that exists,stops at the solenoids.

Further to the issue of bent HTLs is the tractor end swivel ball. If it's mounted too close to the cylinder, the cylinder can hit the tractor's toplink bracket when forced too far right or left. That in turn transfers force to the ram, which in turn continues to bend in the turns. Three things can help avoid this type damage: (a) buy a HTL that has an extension between the cylinder and the tractor end swivel ball, (2) adjust the lower lift arm side stabilizers so that they'll stop the implement from swinging in turns, (c) lift ground engaging equipment (like disc harrows) during turns.

This advice also applies to conventional toplinks, the difference being that they're a helluva lot cheaper to repair/replace than a HTL.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

That should be the answer. But I don't have the top link anymore. I guess I could invest in one. Is there a setting for draft that is prefered when using the disc?

Don't think draft control will help in this particular instance, it's job is to regulate depth. That's vertical force. I'm pretty sure your cylinder rod bent from the horizontal force as you made your turns with the disc harrow still on the ground. And I'd positively either repair the damaged one, or invest in a replacement. I've been a HTL advocate for years now, and wouldn't own a tractor any more without one.

//greg//

 

[Glen Watkins]

Thanks Brian and Greg good info!

 

[turboviking]

Hello, I got the tractor cylinder back, but could not chance ruining it again. I am now plowing with the 3 pt disc harrow using the manual adjusting top link. Working fine. Thanks for all the help from all you guys:thumbsup:

 

[jenkinsph]

I would think a boxblade with rippers extended low would put alot of force against the top link and I haven't had any problems bending a cylinder so far.

For a 3PH disk I would prefer a fixed link as once adjusted it can stay put.

 

[AKfish]

I've never seen rear SCV's with float capability in the JD lineup of tractor's below the 5000 series. And it's only available with the "optional" rear SCV package with the M series and possibly the cab model 5083E, etc.

As well, over the year's of using my TnT setup on my JD110TLB I've also had some "painful" lessons regarding the practical limits of those rear mounted hydraulic cylinders!

Many rear mounted implements (generally the HD ground engagement implements) are best used with the manually adjusted toplink and tilt.

They're cheaper, once you adjust the travel; it stays there and there's alot more clearance between the link and the other rear components of the tractor!

Good investment to make - even with the "fancy dancy" hydraulic TnT!

AKfish

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I've never seen rear SCV's with float capability in the JD lineup of tractor's below the 5000 series. And it's only available with the "optional" rear SCV package with the M series and possibly the cab model 5083E, etc.

As well, over the year's of using my TnT setup on my JD110TLB I've also had some "painful" lessons regarding the practical limits of those rear mounted hydraulic cylinders!

Many rear mounted implements (generally the HD ground engagement implements) are best used with the manually adjusted toplink and tilt.

They're cheaper, once you adjust the travel; it stays there and there's alot more clearance between the link and the other rear components of the tractor!

Good investment to make - even with the "fancy dancy" hydraulic TnT!

AKfish

May I ask what your painful lessons were? :confused3:

 

[AKfish]

May I ask what your painful lessons were? :confused3:

Let's see... are you wondering about the 3rd time I wrecked the top link holder bracket (used to hold the TL cylinder up when not being used) when I elevated the Kuhn rotary rake and the extended cylinder rod smashed into it?!? Of course, the gouges in that shiny chrome cylinder rod are... unsightly - at least it's not leaking - just yet!

Or, the gouges in the cylinder case housing on the tilt cylinder (side link) from the Kuhn rotary disc mower that happened (many times) when the top link pin scraped along the side link cylinder when the mower is on the ground and any little bit of sway link chain slop will allow the TL pin to contact the SL cylinder housing. At least it didn't damage the cylinder rod.

And, there's a problem with the top link housing mashing into the rockshaft arms (large nuts on top of arm) when using the mower. It's a little fuzzy right now - how they clash - but they do; big time! :thumbdown:

Now, whenever I use the disc mower and the rotary rake - I swap out - both the cylinders and go with the manual adjustment links from a 4000 series tractor.

AKfish

 

[greg_g]

Well, at least none of the described issues are the fault of the cylinders. All I read is a series of correctable geometry and procedural anomalies. But to be fair, I don't have a side link on mine.

That said - once the HTL was installed - I immediately removed the OE toplink hook. It was of insufficient size to grab onto the toplink, so I saw no use for it at all. Instead, I use one of those heavy duty black rubber tarp straps like OTR truckers use.

Next, I always make sure that I never raise the lift arms with the HTL extended. Step 1, retract cylinder. Step 2, raise lift arms.

I also faithfully adjust the horizontal side stabilizers for each and every implement I mount on the three point hitch. I never permit more than 2" total side to side movement; 1" in either direction.

And among my various TPH implements, there are a few that - by design - exert higher stress on the toplink. Fortunately, these few are for jobs where adjusting toplink length on the fly are not necessary. For those, I leave a conventional toplink pinned to them permanently. When I need to use those particular implements, I drop the HTL before attaching. Sounds like your disc mower may fall into that category.

//greg//