2 Wildkat econo's on the way

[CJONE]

Just like the title says 2 of them on the way, 1 for a customer, 1 for myself. I also have the hydraulics for both tractors. I am going to use mine then mod it as needed. I wanted a 66" but with the flex on these small loaders it makes me nervous, so the 48" it is. CJ

 

[dusty3030]

I am so tempted to order one and convert it to JD QA on my own.

 

[IslandTractor]

Just like the title says 2 of them on the way, 1 for a customer, 1 for myself. I also have the hydraulics for both tractors. I am going to use mine then mod it as needed. I wanted a 66" but with the flex on these small loaders it makes me nervous, so the 48" it is. CJ

good decision!:thumbsup:

You will be amazed at how much grubby backbreaking work you can get done in just a few minutes with the DK plus grapple combo. Once I was properly set up as you will soon be, I could get more done in half an hour than I could working all day without a tractor or in a couple of hours working with my trusty CK20 plus grapple.

If you are planning to take out trees I'd suggest you practice with various techniques but in general the following works very well with a DK:

Raise grapple to above your eye line and push on the tree while in 4wd low range. This will generally put enough force on a tree less than 5-6 inches diameter that it will expose some of the lateral roots. Next back off and do the same from 90 degrees if accessible. Then lower grapple and insert it under the exposed root ball if you can or at least under some of the exposed lateral roots. Drive forward and curl/lift at the same time. If that doesn't immediately pop the tree loose (for bigger ones it won't) then work it a bit with the same technique and then go back to pushing on the trunk about 8-10ft off the ground. Once you get it to tip/unroot just stick the grapple back under the root ball and drive forward to free it up.

I rarely use the chain saw for dropping a tree. Leaves too much of a hassle getting the stump out. For trees bigger than 6 inches or so it is best to use a ripper/BH combo to tear up the lateral root system before pushing the tree over and using the grapple just to carry it away.

Good luck with the grapple

 

[IslandTractor]

I am so tempted to order one and convert it to JD QA on my own.

The JD mount is pretty simple. I've cut off a JD mount from a 4n1 I got used on eBay and then welded on a skidsteer plate. You might actually save some money if you can get WildKat to leave off the SS plate or just have them weld a couple of flat 6x24 pieces of 5/16ths that you can use as a base.

 

[xkbal]

I am so tempted to order one and convert it to JD QA on my own.

That's what I'm doing, was just out measuring to see what I need. Looks pretty straight forward. They gave a discount for leaving the skid steer plate off and leaving the hydraulic connectors off.

Al

 

[CJONE]

good decision!:thumbsup:

You will be amazed at how much grubby backbreaking work you can get done in just a few minutes with the DK plus grapple combo. Once I was properly set up as you will soon be, I could get more done in half an hour than I could working all day without a tractor or in a couple of hours working with my trusty CK20 plus grapple.

If you are planning to take out trees I'd suggest you practice with various techniques but in general the following works very well with a DK:

Raise grapple to above your eye line and push on the tree while in 4wd low range. This will generally put enough force on a tree less than 5-6 inches diameter that it will expose some of the lateral roots. Next back off and do the same from 90 degrees if accessible. Then lower grapple and insert it under the exposed root ball if you can or at least under some of the exposed lateral roots. Drive forward and curl/lift at the same time. If that doesn't immediately pop the tree loose (for bigger ones it won't) then work it a bit with the same technique and then go back to pushing on the trunk about 8-10ft off the ground. Once you get it to tip/unroot just stick the grapple back under the root ball and drive forward to free it up.

I rarely use the chain saw for dropping a tree. Leaves too much of a hassle getting the stump out. For trees bigger than 6 inches or so it is best to use a ripper/BH combo to tear up the lateral root system before pushing the tree over and using the grapple just to carry it away.

Good luck with the grapple

I have already taken out a bunch of trees with the little tractor, a 10" beach was no problem with the bucket the other night. I am hopeing the grapple will make things quicker with the root ball. If the grapple works good for cleaning up the mess after wards I will be selling my ratchet rake as it did not do as good as I would have liked for removing small trees. I rent a excavator for anything bigger. I am already building a ripper for my 3 point hitch that I built last week, I will see how that works. If I could figure out how to post pics I have a few of the 46" maple that I removed for a friend last fall. I think that may be too big for the DK!! CJ

 

[Red Horse]

I am so tempted to order one and convert it to JD QA on my own.

When I ordered my 48" I had Anita delete their JD system. I think she knocked 50 bucks off- attached are some pictures-actully cost me a few bucks more because Deere went up on the price of the hooks and pins since I last did this in 2005

 

[dusty3030]

When I ordered my 48" I had Anita delete their JD system. I think she knocked 50 bucks off- attached are some pictures-actully cost me a few bucks more because Deere went up on the price of the hooks and pins since I last did this in 2005

Cool, thank you for posting!

 

[bigballer]

That's it I can't stand it any longer I am ordering one tomorrow..

 

[IslandTractor]

That's it I can't stand it any longer I am ordering one tomorrow..

Good, but stop there. Don't read the flail mower or ripper threads or you'll get hooked on one of those too!:laughing: