110VAC from 220VAC How to?

   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #31  
Had to look up Balm, Fl. Wasn't sure just where it is. I live a bit further North off 301 (about 150+ miles).
Since Balm doesn't have mail delivery, our mailing address is Riverview. Some of the people who live in Riverview don't know where Balm is.:)

If you are going to be pulling a lot of amperage, more than the well wiring can handle with the pump running then do not use the water. If one side of the 220 circuit. is overloaded it will trip the breaker.
That's only true if they have the right breaker. I have seen 1/2hp pumps running on 50 amp breakers because it's all the homeowner had at the time. I have seen some really scary stuff in the 40 years + I have been doing service work.
 
   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to?
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Just a simple observation that no one mentioned. I would think there should be a disconnect or some kind of simple fused cut off switch within sight of the location where the pump pressure switch is. If it was originally a 220/240v pump installed it is likely the electrician who installed the service did run 4 wires to the disconnect box. If so you could get your 110v out of there. If there is no disconnect and the feed runs straight from the main power panel to the pressure switch I would think this would be some kind of a code infraction or at the very least a safety problem for anyone working on the pump or pressure switch.

Do you have an example of how a cut off switch at the well head is setup?
 
   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #33  
Do you have an example of how a cut off switch at the well head is setup?

Here in Florida, they are just mounted on a board near the well in front of all other electrical items. Pull the disconnect, everything goes dead. But they are not intended for connection of other electrical items.
 
   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #34  
the proper way?

A sub panel has to be installed at the pump houseing. THe sub pannel is fed with the 220v line from the house. The sub panel must have a main breaker less than or equal to the breaker it was wired off of in the main panel. The new sub panel must be grounded with its own ground rod. The new sub panel contains a 220v breaker for the pump and a 110v breaker for the other line.

If any of the above doesnt make sense, hire it out. :thumbsup:
 
   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #35  
I installed a 110 plug in my well to run a heater for the winter, It is not rocket science, I tapped into the black wire and the white wire and grounded it. The sun still rose in the morning the well did not burn down, and the heater worked perfectly.
If you are going to be pulling a lot of amperage, more than the well wiring can handle with the pump running then do not use the water. If one side of the 220 circuit. is overloaded it will trip the breaker.

Did you read his post,,,There is no white wire.. thus his problem,,
 
   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #36  
[quotethe proper way?

A sub panel has to be installed at the pump houseing. THe sub pannel is fed with the 220v line from the house. The sub panel must have a main breaker less than or equal to the breaker it was wired off of in the main panel. The new sub panel must be grounded with its own ground rod. The new sub panel contains a 220v breaker for the pump and a 110v breaker for the other line.

If any of the above doesnt make sense, hire it out.][/quote]

I couldn't have said it better! And it must have a ground and a neutral, which consists of four wires.
 
   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #38  
i'm not an electrician, but i have been through many homeowner electrical woes, and i've also not got a warm fuzzy feeling from many answers that i have received. without getting too technical i'll try to give you a little information about 120v/240v in layman's terms:

a ground is a ground is a ground. it doesn't matter whether you have 120v or 240v - the ground is only intended to carry electricity in the event of a fault. it is not and should not be mistaken for a neutral wire, even though they both ultimately connect to the same place in most residential boxes. you will often see this as terminology about the neutral and ground being "bonded". ground wires should be bare metal or green coated.

120v circuits require a hot wire and a neutral wire to operate. this is pretty basic - you need to complete the circuit for it to operate. generally the hot wire will be black and white will indicate a neutral, but never assume this without testing, since not everyone obeys the rules. you are still supposed to have a ground wire in this configuration, and it should only become utilized when there is a fault (when something goes wrong).

240v circuits are where people often get confused. in a strict 240v configuration you will have two hot wires and a ground. your welder is a good example of this. the ground will still not be used unless there is a fault, and this is where people get confused. they see two hot wires and assume the ground makes up the return leg, which is not the case. since we have alternating current (ac) the two hot legs are not delivering power at the same instant. when the first hot wire delivers power, the second hot wire completes the circuit and does not deliver power. when the power is alternated, the second hot wire delivers and the first completes the circuit and does not deliver power. 240v hot wires are generally black or red, but sometimes people will use the white wire as the other hot lead. it is supposed to be marked with any color other than white or green, but often people ignore that. this is why you should never take it for granted. my terminology may not be correct here, but it is the best way i can explain it without using too much technical terminology.

many newer appliances such as ranges and clothes dryers are 120v/240v. on these you will find four wires. there will be a ground, a neutral, and two hot wires. in cases like this, the two hot wires will power the heavy duty part of the appliance, such as heating elements or motors. electronics circuits that are designed to operate on 120v will make use of the neutral wire and one hot wire.

in short, if you have a 240v circuit with three wires, you can't get a 120v circuit out of it unless you do it incorrectly and unsafely.
For not being an Electrician you seem to have a pretty good grasp on things. Nice Post!
 
   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #39  
That heating shown is probably from past loose or corroded connections. The wires look at least 14ga. Plenty at 240 for a pump. Connections must be clean and tight.
larry

I'm looking at the minimal contact area between the individual conductors and the terminals they are landed on. The wires are stabbed under the side of the screw, instead of being formed in a hook and looped around the screw thread, which would give a much greater contact area and reduce the heating caused by the poor connection as shown in the photo.
 
   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #40  
the proper way?

A sub panel has to be installed at the pump houseing. THe sub pannel is fed with the 220v line from the house. The sub panel must have a main breaker less than or equal to the breaker it was wired off of in the main panel. The new sub panel must be grounded with its own ground rod. The new sub panel contains a 220v breaker for the pump and a 110v breaker for the other line.

If any of the above doesnt make sense, hire it out. :thumbsup:

This is what I did for my Hot Tub. I have a 60 amp breaker in my panel running a Sub Panel at the Hot Tub. It has a 50 amp main with a GFI, 50 amp breaker for the Hot Tub, and 15 amp breaker for the 3 outlets.

It has 4 wires going to the panel, all 8GA. Red, Black, White, Green. The Red and Black are hot and the White is common. The green is grounded at the main panel in the house then grounded at the sub panel then ties into a ground rod placed about 3' from the panel with a bare solid copper wire.

You need a similar setup.

Chris
 

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