110VAC from 220VAC How to?

   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #41  
:confused3:

Originally Posted by dieselscout80 View Post
The circuit to the well pump is 220VAC the wire leading to the pressure switch has a black and white wires and a ground.


The problem is in this setup his white is being used as a HOT. BLACK and WHITE are being used as HOTS while the ground or uninsulated wire is being used as the common/ground.

Chris
 
   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #42  
Do you have an example of how a cut off switch at the well head is setup?

I'm no electrician either but I do work around this type stuff all the time. Most wells will have either a pump house outside near the well head or the equipment is stationed somewhere inside or under your house. You could either have a deep well or the more traditional shallow type well. With the shallow well you will have a big old normally 3' round well curbing sticking out of the ground with a concrete top on it. In older homes it was normal to see some sort of wooden structure sitting next to the well curbing that housed the well pump expansion tank and fuse box. They most always had a light inside the structure and a plug of some kind to plug in some kind of heater to keep the equipment from freezing in the winter. This type setup was a pain because it always seemed like the light bulb that was placed inside the box to keep the water from freezing would always wait until it was -2 outside to blow out and let the water pump freeze up and you would have to go out in the middle of the night to thaw it out.

In newer homes they started making builders build the houses where they had more crawl space under them and this allowed all this equipment to be placed under the house rather than have a pump house out in the yard. This presented a problem as that if someone was working on or in the well they would have to pull the fuse or breaker in the main service panel and then go outside to do the work. The problem was that your wife comes home while you are in the well working and she discovers there is no water and sees the fuse or breaker tripped and puts in a new fuse or flips the breaker back on and lights up hubby in the well.

Like I said I'm no electrician and I'm not sure what the electrical code reads but it has always been a good working practice to install an electrical disconnect within sight of the equipment you are working on regardless of what it is, air compressor, well pump, AC unit, ect.

Personally I have never seen a disconnect switch at the well head other than the old type with the pump house. The disconnect is normally placed at the location of the equipment, expansion tank and pressure switch and then the wire goes out to the well where the pump motor is located. I'm not saying this is up to code but this is how most well systems are set up....at least around here anyway.

A disconnect switch is nothing more than a fuse or breaker between the motor and the service and could be installed at the well head by finding the feed wire before it goes into the casing and installing the switch in parallel to the line wiring at that point. You would have to mount it to a post or some other solid object at the location and would have to be a fixture rated for outside service. There are disconnect switches available that have GFI plugs incorporated within the enclosure but you still have to have 4 wires run to that point if the pump motor runs on 220/240 v.

This link talks about an AC disconnect switch but regardless of weather it's a AC unit or a well pump the principal is the same. Around the middle of the page it shows a disconnect switch that I like because it is the pull out type switch. I like these over a breaker type or fuse because I can pull out the plug and put it in my pocket while I work on the pump and it lessons the danger of someone flipping the switch accidentally and lighting me up while working.

Installing a 220VAC Circuit For Air Conditioning Condenser Unit — Knoji
 
   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to?
  • Thread Starter
#43  
the proper way?

A sub panel has to be installed at the pump houseing. THe sub pannel is fed with the 220v line from the house. The sub panel must have a main breaker less than or equal to the breaker it was wired off of in the main panel. The new sub panel must be grounded with its own ground rod. The new sub panel contains a 220v breaker for the pump and a 110v breaker for the other line.

If any of the above doesnt make sense, hire it out. :thumbsup:

All of this makes sense except the part about "The sub panel must have a main breaker less than or equal to the breaker it was wired off of in the main panel." Why it's only function is a On/Off switch since it is protected at the main panel.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/199852-basement-wiring-5.html#post2558284
 
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   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #44  
If you don't already know the answer to this question, you probably shouldn't be attempting this without the services of a professional electrician.
 
   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #45  
Please click one of the Quick Reply icons in the posts above to activate Quick Reply.
 
   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #46  
Hi
If you're not an Electrician you should not give Electrical advice period.
 
   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #47  
I'm looking at the minimal contact area between the individual conductors and the terminals they are landed on. The wires are stabbed under the side of the screw, instead of being formed in a hook and looped around the screw thread, which would give a much greater contact area and reduce the heating caused by the poor connection as shown in the photo.
Actually contact area is rather unimportant as long as the contact consists of clean metal to metal contact. High force per unit area [pressure] is your friend in establishing this type of contact quality. Getting this pressure over a large area contact requires a lot more force or a lot cleaner conditions than would be needed for a smaller contact area. The hi pressure easily applied in a small contact can more readily force the oxides/dirt out of the way. I didnt notice the application under the screw tho. You are right ... it wasnt well applied. That setup is unstable as the wires can move away from the cocked screw and be loose if they are moved. Better to have hooked them as you say, or if applied as done, move them over to the side to set parallel against the constraint where the screw can pinch them stably.
larry
 
   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #48  
Hi
If you're not an Electrician you should not give Electrical advice period.

Nothing wrong with making comment based on experience... especially if the poster prefaces the statement with a disclaimer.

Codes vary all over the country... from stringent to non-existent.

They also continue to evolve...

More than once I have been told something I have is not legal or up to code which has been proven totally false.

The building department in my jurisdiction almost always looks to the code at the time the work was done or the certificate of occupancy... thank goodness for that... otherwise I would just about have to tear down my 1922 home and start over...

I'm not an electrician and yet have pulled many electrical permits and the inspectors have always commented on the neatness and quality of my work.
 
   / 110VAC from 220VAC How to? #49  
Well i AM an electrical contractor, and i believe i also posted on your previous post the simple answer. IT CANNOT be done SAFELY. In a 110 volt circuit a neutral wire HAS to be present to complete the return path on the circuit. this path is not needed in a 220 configuration. You cannot use the ground wire for this path. Even though you will get a 110 reading with a meter between the hot leg and the ground wire, your then placing an electrical current on the fault path (ground)wires...and this can NEVER be done. you will have destroyed the fault path and the safety of this system.

I even checked with my supply house to see if theres a small step down transformer that would work...and they told me ... NOPE.
 

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