okay so tonight I messed with the diverter valve (the hex head bolt behind the l shaped tube). I adjusted it all the way in, started the tractor, but the draft control all the way down and pull the lift lever all the way up...nothing. So I adjusted it what I thought was all the way out (the bolt never came to a solid stop) started the tractor and set the levers again, once again nothing. So this time I went around and adjusted the knob under the seat as if I was untightening a nut...once I got the knob turned almost all the way to the left the lift arms started coming up very slowly....I went around the back and pushed down on them, only with partial weight I was able to push the arms down, without much effort...so I figured that maybe I should have adjusted the diverter valve all the way in. I stopped the tractor and adjusted it all the way in. Now I am not able to push the 3 point arms down at all and the levers did not lower the lift arms (or release the pressure so gravity or myself could push them down). Any more suggestions? Could there be another diverter valve somewhere. Both times after adjusting the diverter valve I hit the remote levers the hydraulic hoses jumped making me think that maybe I need to adjust the diverter bolt out futher until I get that solid stop. What do you guys think? I will get the pictures posted tomorrow. I left my camera link cable at work.
Thanks
Mine is a Jinma, remember that always...but they do sound similar...
My bolt I can screw out does not have a stop really either, but there is a little increase in the bolt diameter that just touches a small plate that passes really close to the bolt. (It is not really a bolt exactly...but it has a hex head. I never see threads; obviously there are some in there somewhere deep.)
My advice...(as a rookie with a different tractor) screw the bolt out considerably...stop when it is like I said, or you encounter any real resistance to going further, or you are just afraid of screwing something up. Leave it that way while troubleshooting the lift.
Also, the valve on the front...screw it out all the way, and leave it out all the way while troubleshooting the lift.
I *think* that is sound advice to make sure those items are not interfering.
My lift does not work like Greg said, so it may not actually be working right. But I have the digger on, and can't really test it under load. At this point, do it like Greg said, and try it like I said too unless Greg objects (he knows more) in case yours is behaving or misbehaving a little like mine...you just really need to see if there is any logic and force to the lift.
Is there any other load on the same hydraulic pump that is working right? Mine has a loader on the same circuit, and neither the loader nor lift worked as best I could tell. I got the lift working right (possibly not exactly right) by screwing out the "bolt" adjustment all the way, and spraying the front knob adjustment with PB Blaster and working it, and finding that it screws out far further than I thought. Once the lift worked, I suspected and fixed my loader pressure relief valve, and the loader started working fine. Before anything worked, I suspected the pump. Your hoses "dancing" suggests that you pump is good enough for your lift to pass the "human resistance" stage.
My lift box has a plate on top (under the seat) that has many bolts which can be removed to expose all the internals without removing the lift box itself. I hope your pictures show whether yours is like that too. I was going to have to go there next if my lift didn't start working, but fortunately, it is close enough for now that I have not had to go into the lift box yet. I may need too eventually, but I won't know unless the logic of the levers is truly wrong (perhaps a misadjustment inside the lift box) or it won't lift and hold a real non-human load well.
