New receiver to avoid WDH setup?

[sandman2234]

The issue here is the manufacture put a hitch that was well below the trucks BP capacity. I see it all the time and broke a hitch in a F250.

I agree putting a bigger hitch on is not all its about. He is just getting a hitch that is capable of taking advantage of the trucks capacity.

Chris

Works for me, but wanted to make sure others reading this post didn't get the wrong idea about adding a bigger/better hitch to increase vehicle capacity above and beyond the manufacturer's rating.
David from jax

 

[Highbeam]

I have no intention of exceeding any of the truck's ratings. Never did, check the thread title. The goal is to be rid of the lousy Ford receiver along with its requirement that even a small 5001 lb trailer only be towed with a WDH system.

DP, I've chosen the hitch and ball from etrailer that will match or exceed the receiver's ratings. I am now trying to select the proper drop height since I will not be paying 200$+ for an adjustable height hitch setup.

I'm not sure I buy into this 10k max trailer rating. Trailer ratings are generally a marketing BS number not to be confused with actual GCWR, GVWR, and GAWR type ratings. I don't have 10,000 written anywhere on my door sticker.

Is there something special about Fords or is it like the other trucks where GCWR minus truck weight determines allowable trailer weight?

 

[jejeosborne]

I have two concerns.

The first would be that using a weight distribution hitch adds weight to the front axle of the tow vehicle which aids in braking.

The second may be a non issue with a one ton frame but, the reason the hitches are rated higher for a WD setup is because the bars torque the ball mount in the reciever tube which adds weight to the forward most bolts that are securing the hitch. The leverage and torque direction is actually opposite as opposed to not using a WD hitch. The frame of the truck is stronger towards the axle vs at the rear end of the frame. Like I said, may not be an issue with your frame but there are reasons for the difference beyond just the hitch.
Jeff

 

[Dmace]

I still feel you will miss the WD hitch once the roads get bumpy. You can put a 30k lb pintle hitch on the back of that truck but it doesn't change the rear suspension. It's still gonna be bouncy on rough roads. Upgrading the hitch is never a bad idea but doing it only to remove the WD hitch may be...

 

[jeffsw6]

DP, I've chosen the hitch and ball from etrailer that will match or exceed the receiver's ratings. I am now trying to select the proper drop height since I will not be paying 200$+ for an adjustable height hitch setup.

I bought an adjustable ball mount and I feel it was money well spent. It gives you flexibility in case you don't know how a trailer will ride best on your truck with whatever load you happen to be putting on it.

I have a Curt adjustable with all three ball sizes and a straight (no drop/rise) one also with all three balls. I wouldn't pick something up far from home without bringing both of these with me just in case. I've got on the highway before, drove a couple miles, and then decided to stop and adjust. It's better than white-knuckling for dozens of miles!

Is there something special about Fords or is it like the other trucks where GCWR minus truck weight determines allowable trailer weight?

Many trucks these days have specific trailer weight (and tongue weight) ratings for conventional / bumper pull, gooseneck, and fifth-wheel. The BP rating is probably limited by the rear suspension or the frame. So if your truck specs / manual say BP is max 10K, no matter what receiver you put on, you should not exceed 10K, even if that truck is rated 22K fifth-wheel.

 

[slowzuki]

RE the tow ratings, try to find that printed on the truck anywhere. You're find max front and rear axle weights. You're find your registration weight. You'll find a tag as to the hitch rating.

At least around here when you scale, either full on or the portables, you can't exceed the total weight and you can't exceed your axle weights. They sometimes check hitch equipment and brakes, but they certainly don't start phoning around to dealers with your VIN trying to see if you have the right engine options and tranny cooler to get the higher tow rating.

 

[Reg]

So I haul RV trailers and my PJ 10k rated equipment trailer but not at the same time. In the past the ball height was very similar for both of these trailers and I used the same WDH setup on them. I replaced the RV with a modern one which is much much taller. The ball height is way at the top of the grave digger drop shank. This is unacceptable for my equipment trailer and I am now looking at buying a seperate WDH setup for 300$ for the equipment trailer. I will NOT be raising and lowering the ball height on my current WDH setup each time I want to tow.

Even on a big honking diesel F350 the factory receiver is not rated to tow the equipment trailer without a WDH system. I believe the weight carrying hitch max was only 500# tongue weight.

So I discovered that it is actually cheaper to replace the Ford receiver with a class 4 or 5 receiver rated for a 1000 lb tongue and 10,000 lb trailer without a WDH and then buy a hitch and ball that can also be found rated for 10,000#. This will mean that my receiver is more substantial for RV duties, and also it will be easier to hitch up the equipment trailer.

What is the boards opinion on upgrading the factory receiver instead of buying a second WDH setup?

Something ODD about that picture.
To need the ball that high on that shank kinda suggests to me that the truck SQUATS a LOT - - either because it is weak and wimpy in the rear springs, or because you load it.
Is that your "big honking diesel" ?
If so - they're not, at least the SRW ones aren't.

Anyway, if truck squat is your REAL problem the solution may be to get your Springs repaired, or add air springs, which soften the ride considerably even when running empty.
They also help compensate for loaded/not-loaded headlight aim.

 

[slowzuki]

A lot of trailers are just high. I have to use a 6" rise with my F350 4x4 on my deckover bumper pull.

 

[Highbeam]

New trailers, especially this one, are tall. The trailer is sitting in my shop all leveled and if I walk into the ball mount it will hit me in the groin. They are really really tall. Getting out of the trailer takes a three step folding staircase and then a fourth full step before you hit the ground. This is a brand new 2012 Outdoor RV trailer made in Oregon by the same company that makes Artic Fox trailers and Nash. My last trailer was a nash and was much lower. Overall height is still under 12' but ground clearance is excellent.

The F350 has been lowered to F250 height by changing the blocks under the leaf springs. All springs and overloads are still F350 OEM. This dropped the hitch just over 2". The trailer's full tongue weight drops the rear bumper 3" and then when I set the WDH the bumper regains one of those inches for a total drop of 2" and just barely touching the overloads. It actually rides very nicely and level as set up. That crazy shank was 100$!

So the problem, Reg, is that the trailer ball mount is tall. Truck is fine. Trailer has max GVWR of 8200 so we're not talking a huge trailer. In fact, many folks report towing this size of trailer with half ton trucks.

 

[Highbeam]

Perhaps a picture will help.