3-Point Hitch wood chipper choice

   / wood chipper choice #11  
I have a BearCat 554 5" chipper on my 30 hp L3010 that goes real well. I also have a mile long drive/road to maintain and lots of woods roads so I know how long a mile is :D.

I'm not sure what you mean by widen a woods road ( how about a picture )but if it is what I think it means like on my woods roads then I think you should consider getting everything cut and piled along the road. Make your piles perpendicular to the road with the butts out. Then go and rent a big chipper with hydraulic feed like a tree service would use and start chipping your way down the road. A few hard working friends would be a plus. You will get it done far easier, faster, and cheaper.

It sounds like it might be a very big job for a BX42 size unit if you plan to chip much stuff in the 4" range and the woods are thick.
 

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   / wood chipper choice #12  
I have a Wallenstein BX42s PTO drive chipper running off my Kubota B3300SU with 33-hp/25-hp PTO. A good match. I paid $2599 (plus shipping) (January 2012) from Iowa Farm Equipment, via eBay...not too far above your budget.

Plan on buying or building a caster dolly for your chipper. I bought my first caster dolly, 36" X 24" solid deck /1,200 pound capacity, from Northern Tool via eBay. Dollies wider than 18" are difficult to find, that is why I have mentioned Northern Tool. I am in the process of building a second dolly to mobilize a Ratchet Rake from four used INDUSTRIAL CASTERS I bought on eBay for $30 DELIVERED. The Wallenstein BX42s weights 425 pounds....very difficult to maneuver onto the three-point pins and tractor PTO stub if it is sitting directly on the floor. See following link for casters:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/242128-heavy-duty-industrial-casters-ebay.html

I cut off dirt encrusted roots from saplings before I chip them. I amputate them with a Milwaukee 28 volt battery powered Sawzall, then burn them. This is an extra step but if you keep dirt away from the four chipper blades they chip a long time before they need to be sharpened.
 
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   / wood chipper choice #13  
I have a Wallenstein BX42s PTO drive chipper running off my Kubota B3300SU with 33-hp/25-hp PTO. A good match. I paid $2599 (plus shipping) (January 2012) from Iowa Farm Equipment, via eBay...not too far above your budget.

Plan on buying or building a caster dolly for your chipper. I bought my first caster dolly, 36" X 24" solid deck /1,200 pound capacity, from Northern Tool via eBay. Dollies wider than 18" are difficult to find, that is why I have mentioned Northern Tool. I am in the process of building a second dolly to mobilize a Ratchet Rake from four used industrial casters I bought on eBay for $30 delivered. The Wallenstein BX42s weights 425 pounds....very difficult to maneuver onto the three-point pins and tractor PTO stub if it is sitting directly on the floor. See following link:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/242128-heavy-duty-industrial-casters-ebay.html



I cut off dirt encrusted roots from saplings before I chip them. I amputate them with a Milwaukee 28 volt battery powered Sawzall, then burn them. This is an extra step but if you keep dirt away from the chipper blades they chip a long time before they need to be sharpened. The four blades on the Wally probably contribute to long periods between sharpenings.....share the load.

Here's a thread I created on my Wallenstein Bx42 dolly build. I used casters from home Depot, which were relatively cheap and a few pieces of plywood. It works great!

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/236156-wallenstein-bx42-chipper-dolly-build.html
 
   / wood chipper choice
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Tractchores, thanks for that bit of info. How hard is it to manuever out in the field (woods)? Or is the dolly just for in the shop?

Gordon, the main road I could tow in a chipper (although very rough going at this point). The cleraring is mostly smaller stuff to widen the road and use the tractor to level out some and then the chipper. I guess I could do that and leave the smaller woods roads alone and just pile up neatly for habitat. For me to rent for the day would be about $300 and this could go on for a while, hence the thought of the 3 pt. going up to the farm again this week to continue with the saw and look at the situation again.

thanks,
Paul
 
   / wood chipper choice #15  
Raider - the only reason I suggested you think about the big rental unit was because I thought you might be in a hurry. If you have time it is a whole different ball game.
I chip stuff on the main road to make it look nice but I hardly ever chip stuff on my woods roads. I either make brush piles or just let it lay and cut it enough so it lies close to the ground. Hardwood rots quick and gets covered with leaves so it disappears quick. Softwood takes a while. Most people now seem to want their woods to be more more neat and sterile looking and opt for chipping or removing all the slash. A more messy woods with lots of large and small woody debris laying around is what wildlife prefer. It serves plants and animals all up and down the food chain as it slowly decays.
 
   / wood chipper choice #16  
I own both a Mighty Mac and Wallenstein unit.


The reason why I went with a Wallenstein BX62S over a Bearcat or any other brand is the shear bolt instead of belt driven. To me, replacing a 5 cent bolt is easier then replacing expensive belts, that either have to be made, or ordered from a dealer - expensive.

As well, my local NH dealer became a wallenstein distributor and offered us a great deal on their first unit, mostly to get it out that 'My Way Farms" bought one.

Given, the Mighty Mac Unit is a 3inch chipper/shredder and the BX62S... is a beast, over all the Wallenstein unit is better designed then the Mighty Mac. Also uses heavier steel and easier to maintain (to me.) Everything seems very well laid out.

For the price? Our 62S came in just over $3100 - cheaper then Iowa farms and cheaper then everyone else around for that matter. I believe a dealership in PA I called was $20 cheaper - but it wasn't worth the 2 hour drive.

There is, in my opinion little need for the hydro-feed on the Wallenstein units... once it grabs whatever you put in there - it's gone, done - stand back!

I imagine the BX42S would be right over your budget - probably around $2200-2300 depending on the dealers in your area.
 
   / wood chipper choice #17  
I bought a Jimna 6" unit about 6-7 years ago for $1,400 new... but i hear there in the 22-2,400 range now days.

I have had NO issues with mine
 
   / wood chipper choice #18  
I had been looking for a used unit among several brands, but finally broke down and got the Wallenstein BX42 new for $2599. I looked at a lot of brands and models, and decided this was the best one for the money. I like the way the flywheel and blades are easilly accessible. On some brands, you have to take half the chipper apart to acces them. And I like that the Wallenstein comes with a chute that can be aimed. That's either not available, or extra cost, on many other chippers in this size/price range (some chippers dump straight onto the ground, and others have fixed chutes).
 
   / wood chipper choice #19  
I own both a Mighty Mac and Wallenstein unit.


The reason why I went with a Wallenstein BX62S over a Bearcat or any other brand is the shear bolt instead of belt driven. To me, replacing a 5 cent bolt is easier then replacing expensive belts, that either have to be made, or ordered from a dealer - expensive.

.

There is nothing wrong with your choice of the BX62 but just to set the record straight my BearCat chipper uses standard B belts available at any autoparts store or on line. I put on new belts when I first bought it used and have never replaced the belts in the eight years I have owned and used it. So it is not the expensive hassle that you thought it was.
Also a belt is a great way to de-couple shock from your pto drive mechanism.
 
   / wood chipper choice
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Hey Gordon,

I have plenty of time. The main road is just over a mile up many terraces. I have started the stacking for the main event. My smaller wood roads (rtv stuff) the branches just get piled up for habitat, etc... (don't need a clean woods). I guess the sheer pin verses belts is a toss up. I do like the 4 blades verses two. I am new to this party and have not used the 3 pt yet. Pretty straight forward yes? I have a "1998" L35 (very clean).

Paul
 

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