I'm tired of diesel 50 gallons at a time ...

[newbury]

Newbury, can you tell me where I can find fitting for those tanks?

Search TBN, several have bought them.
Search ebay
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I have no idea how you want to get them, if you want new or used, if you can't buy from China, how exact a fit you need, what your local hardware store is like or your closest WalMart

For example:
a simple ibc fittings site:tractorbynet.com turns up

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/240430-bum-puzzled-275-gallon-paletized.html

 

[blueriver]

Search TBN, several have bought them.
Search ebay
Search the web
I have no idea how you want to get them, if you want new or used, if you can't buy from China, how exact a fit you need, what your local hardware store is like or your closest WalMart

For example:
a simple ibc fittings site:tractorbynet.com turns up

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/240430-bum-puzzled-275-gallon-paletized.html

I thought about that as well ... would work real well. Add a pump or put it on a stand.

 

[pacerron]

I thought about that as well ... would work real well. Add a pump or put it on a stand.

Would it really be any cheaper though?
I don't know what kind of deals fuel suppliers are making on tanks these days but in the old days they were pretty darn cheap considering the fuel distributors were adding customers.
By the time you mess around building a stand for those cargo tanks, or adding a pump, buy hose and nozzle and find a fitting adapter that doesn't leak it looks like you'd have more money and time involved than just picking up the phone to get a tank specifically made for the job.
The stand tanks are normally made so the tank is a little lower in the back when on level ground. This collects any crap so it won't come out the hose even if you run it empty. I have elevated mine a few time in the back to drain everything into a couple 5 gallon cans. Still no dirt or water after 20 years and I don't have a filter at the tank. But I have always used diesel supreme not some pipeline interface crap that is a few cents cheaper.

 

[blueriver]

Would it really be any cheaper though?
I don't know what kind of deals fuel suppliers are making on tanks these days but in the old days they were pretty darn cheap considering the fuel distributors were adding customers.
By the time you mess around building a stand for those cargo tanks, or adding a pump, buy hose and nozzle and find a fitting adapter that doesn't leak it looks like you'd have more money and time involved than just picking up the phone to get a tank specifically made for the job.
The stand tanks are normally made so the tank is a little lower in the back when on level ground. This collects any crap so it won't come out the hose even if you run it empty. I have elevated mine a few time in the back to drain everything into a couple 5 gallon cans. Still no dirt or water after 20 years and I don't have a filter at the tank. But I have always used diesel supreme not some pipeline interface crap that is a few cents cheaper.

Your spot on ... thats why when they offered the tank, filter, hose at $80 a year lease I went that route ... I had metal to build a stand and could buy a pump ... fiqure my labor and $295 for a pump, the fittings, filter and I can rent there tank for a few years.

I too thought the tanks where to be set a little lower in the back ... not this one and when I asked I was told they have better results with any potential "crap" in the tank getting into the filter system rather than remaining in the tank ... time will tell.

 

[pacerron]

Your spot on ... thats why when they offered the tank, filter, hose at $80 a year lease I went that route ... I had metal to build a stand and could buy a pump ... fiqure my labor and $295 for a pump, the fittings, filter and I can rent there tank for a few years.

I too thought the tanks where to be set a little lower in the back ... not this one and when I asked I was told they have better results with any potential "crap" in the tank getting into the filter system rather than remaining in the tank ... time will tell.

I noticed in your pics that you had your tank stand bottom rails setting
directly on the ground. I know that is supposed to disperse the almost ton of weight when full along the entire bottom of the angle iron. Mine is made the same way but it gradually wanted to sink in the clay after a years rain and freeze/thaw cycle. I ended up putting 4" thick 8x12 solid concrete pavers under the rails for more surface area. That solved the problem until the last tractor I got made me raise the whole tank another 4" because of the high secondary tank behind the tractor seat.
You may not have the sinking problem down there but if you think you might it would be easier to have some blocks on hand for the next time your tank is almost empty.
I cut a wood stick a few inches longer than the drum diameter and looped it to another stick about 6 ft long with some baling string on one end. I can flip the top cap open with the long stick while standing on the ground and lower the short stick into the tank vertically to see how much fuel I have left when I think I might be getting too low before a harvest. A lot easier for my old joints than climbing up on the tractor tire.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I noticed in your pics that you had your tank stand bottom rails setting
directly on the ground. I know that is supposed to disperse the almost ton of weight when full along the entire bottom of the angle iron. Mine is made the same way but it gradually wanted to sink in the clay after a years rain and freeze/thaw cycle. I ended up putting 4" thick 8x12 solid concrete pavers under the rails for more surface area. That solved the problem until the last tractor I got made me raise the whole tank another 4" because of the high secondary tank behind the tractor seat.
You may not have the sinking problem down there but if you think you might it would be easier to have some blocks on hand for the next time your tank is almost empty.
I cut a wood stick a few inches longer than the drum diameter and looped it to another stick about 6 ft long with some baling string on one end. I can flip the top cap open with the long stick while standing on the ground and lower the short stick into the tank vertically to see how much fuel I have left when I think I might be getting too low before a harvest. A lot easier for my old joints than climbing up on the tractor tire.

Doesnt your tank have an extra 2" fitting welded in the top? If so buy a fuel guage and in stall it. The screw into the 2" fitting and have a float that attaches to a sight guage on top showing fuel level. The gauge is adjustable for tank size/shape.

 

[Foxtrot08]

My family's company buys direct from a lot of places, but this is who fabricates our tanks for us:

Stanwade Tanks & Petroleum Equipment, Inc. | Home

They also have an online store for all your fittings and such. If you call them, they have way more in stock. Great people to deal with.

 

[pacerron]

Doesnt your tank have an extra 2" fitting welded in the top? If so buy a fuel guage and in stall it. The screw into the 2" fitting and have a float that attaches to a sight guage on top showing fuel level. The gauge is adjustable for tank size/shape.

No extra hole in the top, just the fuel inlet cap.
That would be a pain to have to remove a guauge every fill up.
I don't like the idea of sight gauges down where my hose comes out either.
It would get broken for sure and be a big loss of fuel and mess.
I keep track of my fill ups but the hours per gallon varies a little depending
on which tractor and how the tractors are being used.
The dipstick method works fine for me.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Ok. My tanks have a small drain hole on the bottom and 3 and 4 2" fittings welded on the top to mount what ever you need/want to.

 

[pacerron]

Ok. My tanks have a small drain hole on the bottom and 3 and 4 2" fittings welded on the top to mount what ever you need/want to.

Locations differ and times change. I purchased mine new from the oil distributor 20 years ago at his cost which was cheaper than I could get it elsewhere. He apologized for charging anything for the tank. He had been
supplying them free for years. Another distributor in the area decided to undercut his price a few cents to steal his customers so the tanks were a loss that couldn't be recovered if free. Turned out the cheaper fuel caused the thrifty folks a lot of problems in their tractors and home furnaces so he got most of them back as customers within 2 years anyway.
Just a basic steel tank with primer paint. One hole in and 1 hole out. I have painted the outside 2X and replaced the rubber hose one time in 20 years. The hose was starting to crack from sun exposure but didn't leak.
About every 5 years, when the timing is right, I use all the fuel that will come out the hose. Then I put a couple concrete blocks under the rear base and drain it dry into a couple 5 gallon cans. No crap or water that I could see. There are always other uses for the cans of fuel around the farm. I even used it in a tractor a few times with no problems.
Just my way of doing things. Nothing fancy.