3 Point Attachment Switching not enjoying.

[JohninCT]

Here is a link to the HF hitch manual. The adaptor link is on pg 5. I couldn't find it in search of the HF web site. You should be able to call customer service and order it.

http://images.harborfreight.com/manuals/93000-93999/93691.pdf

 

[Guesseral]

No the bottom hooks will not work either. The spacing between the is fine, the spacing from the top hook to the bottom hooks is good (adjusted that way). The problem is that on the brush hog none of the hooks are long enough to reach out and connect to the pins, and on the tiller the bottom hooks (with the spacers on) will not fit between the pins and the tiller frame and the top hook is not long enough to reach into the top support. Yes I could get the top bracket and fix the top, no I am not going to cut the frame on the tiller or cut the back of the hook to fit between the frame and the pin.
I am done with the unit, I will wse the metal for some other project in the future no big deal.

 

[oldballs]

Always the contrarian, I have a different view. You've only changed out the implement once. Of course it went a little buggy. Don't buy anything until you've changed it out at least ten more times. By then, you will have worked out the kinks. Just like anything in life. Save the money. Deal with it, you'll be a pro in no time.

I'm with the "trout". On my BX2660 SCUT the implements aren't that heavy that they can't be pushed around. Early on I did buy a Carter's EZ hitch which won't no way allow me to hook on to the Kubota Ballast Box even if the hitch was sawed down. It does fit everything else however. Yet I find that all the attachments mechanically ride better attached directly to the 3 pt balls and aren't that hard to get on. The Check Chains usually have to be adjusted anyway, and the top link has to be tweaked for proper operation. So far I have six attachments for the 3 pt. If I was going to pursue ease, I'd go with something that does it all without ever getting off the tractor or do like "Soundguy" and buy a tractor for every implement.

 

[JohninCT]

No the bottom hooks will not work either. The spacing between the is fine, the spacing from the top hook to the bottom hooks is good (adjusted that way). The problem is that on the brush hog none of the hooks are long enough to reach out and connect to the pins, and on the tiller the bottom hooks (with the spacers on) will not fit between the pins and the tiller frame and the top hook is not long enough to reach into the top support. Yes I could get the top bracket and fix the top, no I am not going to cut the frame on the tiller or cut the back of the hook to fit between the frame and the pin.
I am done with the unit, I will wse the metal for some other project in the future no big deal.

OK. I think I understand what your problem is. I had a similar issue where the ears on the lower hooks (the flat bars where the hook locks are pinned between) would interfere with the frame and not allowing the attachment (I think it was my box blade) to not go on the lower hooks. I had to grind a little off the box blade and/or the hitch ears to get it to go on. I was able to use the HF hitch for awhile, but took it off when I had to connect my post hole digger which doesn't use the top link. I already had a set of Pats bought for another tractor that I wasn't using. I put those on and haven't thought about taking them off ever since. Pats works with every attachment no problem. If you get a set you won't be sorry.

 

[Noodlez914]

Ok so after starting this thread and reading everyone's thoughts and input, I have at least come to the conclusion that it is without a doubt worth the money to invest in some form of a quick hitch system. Not sure wether to go with Pats system or the imatch type system. Pats seems like the sure shot for not having to worry about older attachments working with it. My tractor attachments are all brand new and believe they would all work with an imatch type system but... What if I were to come across a good deal on Craigslist for an older type attachment? Seems like Pats is the worry free option. Hmmmmm.

 

[Artesia Aggie]

The Imatch was the best purchase I made beside the tractor. I spent a year jerking a rotary cutter and a tiller on and off. I couldn't believe how easy the Imatch is. All my implements but one were new and were compatible. The Imatch is made to the ASAE industry standard as are a large number of implements. In other words it doesn't have to be green to fit.

 

[Noodlez914]

Thank you all who mentioned the dead blow hammer. Embarrassed to say, I never was aware of one. Was using a rubber mallet to whack things into position. The dead blow will remain on the Deere!

 

[downslope]

Always the contrarian, I have a different view. You've only changed out the implement once. Of course it went a little buggy. Don't buy anything until you've changed it out at least ten more times. By then, you will have worked out the kinks. Just like anything in life. Save the money. Deal with it, you'll be a pro in no time.

I'm with the "trout". On my BX2660 SCUT the implements aren't that heavy that they can't be pushed around. Early on I did buy a Carter's EZ hitch which won't no way allow me to hook on to the Kubota Ballast Box even if the hitch was sawed down. It does fit everything else however. Yet I find that all the attachments mechanically ride better attached directly to the 3 pt balls and aren't that hard to get on. The Check Chains usually have to be adjusted anyway, and the top link has to be tweaked for proper operation. So far I have six attachments for the 3 pt. If I was going to pursue ease, I'd go with something that does it all without ever getting off the tractor or do like "Soundguy" and buy a tractor for every implement.

I'm with you and the "trout" on this too. You can't get discouraged after only trying something one time, especially if no one has given you any instruction or hints. Farmers have been hooking and unhooking Cat I and Cat II stuff for decades without after market couplers and doing it parked on the dirt not a concrete floor using dollies. The early top links on Ford/Dearborn/Ferguson stuff were not even easily adjustable for variable length out in the field, just two pieces of flat stock bolted together.

When I back into an implement that's not on level ground (or the tractor's not on level ground!) always hook first to the pin on the implement that is lower to the ground. Then you can raise the position control a little; this will do two things, it will lower the other side so you can make the connection and also take some weight off the ground in case you have to shove the machine around a little. You can also use the leveling crank to help if you have one. Connect the top-link last. If it is too "long", again just raise the position control a little and it should fall into place. If the top-link is too "short" you can usually just drive forward a little and the implement will tip forward allowing the top link to be connected; or you can adjust the top link length if that is easier. When unhooking always disconnect the top link first. Again you can use the position control, move the tractor forward a little, or adjust the top link to take any tension off the link.

I've seen friends get discouraged the first few times but eventually they seem to get the hang of it. With the after-market adapters there's always the potential for more problems if you acquire additional used implements in the future or something that doesn't work right because the lower arms have been extended.

 

[Noodlez914]

I'm with you and the "trout" on this too. You can't get discouraged after only trying something one time, especially if no one has given you any instruction or hints. Farmers have been hooking and unhooking Cat I and Cat II stuff for decades without after market couplers and doing it parked on the dirt not a concrete floor using dollies. The early top links on Ford/Dearborn/Ferguson stuff were not even easily adjustable for variable length out in the field, just two pieces of flat stock bolted together.

When I back into an implement that's not on level ground (or the tractor's not on level ground!) always hook first to the pin on the implement that is lower to the ground. Then you can raise the position control a little; this will do two things, it will lower the other side so you can make the connection and also take some weight off the ground in case you have to shove the machine around a little. You can also use the leveling crank to help if you have one. Connect the top-link last. If it is too "long", again just raise the position control a little and it should fall into place. If the top-link is too "short" you can usually just drive forward a little and the implement will tip forward allowing the top link to be connected; or you can adjust the top link length if that is easier. When unhooking always disconnect the top link first. Again you can use the position control, move the tractor forward a little, or adjust the top link to take any tension off the link.

I've seen friends get discouraged the first few times but eventually they seem to get the hang of it. With the after-market adapters there's always the potential for more problems if you acquire additional used implements in the future or something that doesn't work right because the lower arms have been extended.

Very good advice.

 

[jeff9366]

I would like telescoping side links, though it seems hard to find for a BX. ( I don't really like turnbuckles)

Here you go:

Kubota tractor stabilizers Kubota [url]www.stabilworks.com - YouTube[/url]

My tractor is a Kubota B3300SU with Stabilworks telescoping side links.

Hodge will fabricate for tractors other than Kubota, he just started by making TSL for his own Kubota.