Building an "old fashioned appearance" new barn
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Lots of tractor time yesterday and Sunday!
Finished spreading base gravel under and around the barn. Then, had to bring power in power. 2 legs of 120 V, w/ 30 breakers. Always good to have 240 V in a barn. Now I started building in earnest. First, I found the DK45 has a loader reach of just shy of 9'. With the forks tilted up, I can make it to 9' easy enough, but never to 10'. I had originally planned on building the ceiling at 10' and the loft floor at 11', but since I'm building this by myself and the ROPS is 8' and the forks can only reach to 9', the ceiling is now lowered to 9'. No biggie. Gives more loft head height. See new drawing.
Yesterday, after nailing off the pressure-treated skirt boards around the base, I started w/ some of the beams. For you hydrostat nay-sayers, this is the greatest. You can *crawl* w/ a hydrostat to perfectly align and set timbers by yourself. I'm using 6x12 laminated timbers to support the roof. The gussets tying them to the posts are from 5/8 plywood. The 6x12's that support the loft are plywood "microlams". Only got 1 of those set before dark, and the last picture is pretty grainy. Oh, and I got a cheap framing nailgun from Harbor Freight -- big time saver. Enjoy the pics!
Electrical panel. The outlet is temporary, but that's where the breakers will stay.
For now, water (1" PVC) is stubbed next to a post, w/ a ball valve shutoff underground.
Finished spreading base gravel under and around the barn. Then, had to bring power in power. 2 legs of 120 V, w/ 30 breakers. Always good to have 240 V in a barn. Now I started building in earnest. First, I found the DK45 has a loader reach of just shy of 9'. With the forks tilted up, I can make it to 9' easy enough, but never to 10'. I had originally planned on building the ceiling at 10' and the loft floor at 11', but since I'm building this by myself and the ROPS is 8' and the forks can only reach to 9', the ceiling is now lowered to 9'. No biggie. Gives more loft head height. See new drawing.
Yesterday, after nailing off the pressure-treated skirt boards around the base, I started w/ some of the beams. For you hydrostat nay-sayers, this is the greatest. You can *crawl* w/ a hydrostat to perfectly align and set timbers by yourself. I'm using 6x12 laminated timbers to support the roof. The gussets tying them to the posts are from 5/8 plywood. The 6x12's that support the loft are plywood "microlams". Only got 1 of those set before dark, and the last picture is pretty grainy. Oh, and I got a cheap framing nailgun from Harbor Freight -- big time saver. Enjoy the pics!
Electrical panel. The outlet is temporary, but that's where the breakers will stay.
For now, water (1" PVC) is stubbed next to a post, w/ a ball valve shutoff underground.
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Domush
Platinum Member
Thank you. I just got my first attachment the other day (bush hog), so I'm having fun playing around.
I can't believe you're building that shop alone! That's quite an undertaking. I found just working on my tractor alone to be daunting. I'm beginning to both tire of working on stuff myself and having little more than an echo in my house. Want a roommate?
Have you built shops/houses in the past or is this a new experience?
Also, what kind of wood is that. I'm not familiar with building lumber being red (besides cedar). I'm from the east coast, so we're mostly oak and pine. Is redwood a common building lumber there? Is it similar to oak or pine in cost?
Ah, I could have used a roommate this week with the wife and kids gone at a graduation.
The dark wood is just the treatment from the pressure-treated 6x6 posts and 2x8 skirt boards. Is that what you mean? We just mostly use Douglas fir around here. Unless you have a good source of cedar (more expensive), or Ponderosa pine (not quite as good but can be a good choice if you mill it yourself or find it cheap).
New experience for something this big. Built a 15x15' "Powerhouse" with a contractor friend a few years ago. It's the chalet in the background on some of the pics and it has my backup generator and off-grid electrical system and batteries. We just built the real house, too, and I tried to help, but mostly the contractor and subs built it. Other than that, just treehouses and stuff has a kid!
Marcus
The dark wood is just the treatment from the pressure-treated 6x6 posts and 2x8 skirt boards. Is that what you mean? We just mostly use Douglas fir around here. Unless you have a good source of cedar (more expensive), or Ponderosa pine (not quite as good but can be a good choice if you mill it yourself or find it cheap).
New experience for something this big. Built a 15x15' "Powerhouse" with a contractor friend a few years ago. It's the chalet in the background on some of the pics and it has my backup generator and off-grid electrical system and batteries. We just built the real house, too, and I tried to help, but mostly the contractor and subs built it. Other than that, just treehouses and stuff has a kid!
Marcus
pilot-werx
Gold Member
here is a link to my barn project. granted it is a little bigger, but the town made the stipulation that the building had to be designed to present a traditional new england agricultural appearance.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/233365-new-dairy.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/233365-new-dairy.html
Worked on the barn part of yesterday and all day today. Here are pics.
The little metal tie plates are going to be supplemented by large plywood gussets. The loft floor (1 1/8" plywood) will lock everything together nicely. Most of the "timbers" are placed now, except for the top truss support beams. Note how the largest microlam beams are supported from below by 4' of vertically oriented 2x6's and 5/8" plywood which are nailed and through-bolted. Only got done 6 of 19 BCI joists before it got dark but they go up quickly. Needed to have the wife to help for that part and she was busy planting stuff in the garden, watering vineyard and other plants, and taking care of the kids. It seems to take forever, but I'm building this alone.
Here are pics. The little metal tie plates are going to be supplemented by large plywood gussets. The loft floor (1 1/8" plywood) will lock everything together nicely. Most of the "timbers" are placed now, except for the top truss support beams. Note how the largest microlam beams are supported from below by 4' of vertically oriented 2x6's and 5/8" plywood which are nailed and through-bolted. Only got done 6 of 19 BCI joists before it got dark but they go up quickly. Needed to have the wife to help for that part and she was busy planting stuff in the garden, watering vineyard and other plants, and taking care of the kids. It seems to take forever, but I'm building this alone.
Bob77064
Elite Member
Looking good, that's a fine looking house too.
TRR
Gold Member
Your finish drawing in your first post shows an overhang on the front of the barn along with a prow at the top. The framing drawing in the same post does not show how you plan on doing the prow or the overhang. Would you share that info please?
The way I've seen it done before is for the end truss (I realize you're not using trusses) to be 3.5" smaller than the rest so ladder framing can be used for the overhang and tied into the next truss back. You have me curious.
The way I've seen it done before is for the end truss (I realize you're not using trusses) to be 3.5" smaller than the rest so ladder framing can be used for the overhang and tied into the next truss back. You have me curious.
Sure. I've been referring to them as trusses, so that's OK. It's not quite cemented in my mind yet. Since the trusses with collarties will be made of 2x8's (overkill) instead of 2x6's, I have a bit of room to work with. I was planning on notching the last truss for perpendicular boards for the 2' overhang anyway, and tying them back to the 2nd truss. For the prow, I can proportionally increase their length. Yes, I know that 2x material flat would bend, but I can also add a mini-ridgebeam and diagonal pieces back from the tip of the prow back to the 1st truss to transfer the loads back into the trusses. Does that make sense? I think that's sort of in the same vein as what you are describing w/ 3.5" smaller truss. Let me see if I can make a drawing in Sketchup....
Marcus
Marcus
