Adding pole barn extension to existing metal building

[pclausen]

Thanks. Both good suggestions. I'll do one or the other when I get back on the roof this afternoon.

 

[CTyler]

Looks good...

I can't tell from the picture how you tied them together. Did you cut 2x4 holes in the side of the existing building to slide them through?

I wanted to do the same thing to my 50x64 Cleary building and extend it 14 foot on the gabel end and leave the metal on the existing building alone. Appearently
Cleary doesn't want to do it cause they quoted over 13k which is crazy money!

Edit....Ok...Nevermind, blew up the next picture and you have joist hangers.

 

[ocaj11]

It's looking very nice!!! Keep the updates and photos coming.

 

[bucktaker]

I agree good job....I am watching closely as I need to do a similar extension to my horse barn to make a loafing area. How much help have you had on the building? been wondering if I can tackle this my self or do i need to hire it out.


What tires do you have on the rear of you dually? i am near the point of needing new ones for my 07 GMC 3500

 

[pclausen]

How much help have you had on the building? been wondering if I can tackle this my self or do i need to hire it out.

I had help here and there to speed things up, but I could have done the whole thing solo. In fact, when I did have help, they tended to screw things up. I'm not complaining though!

What tires do you have on the rear of you dually? i am near the point of needing new ones for my 07 GMC 3500

235/85R16 BF Goodrich Mud Terrain

 

[pclausen]

extend it 14 foot on the gabel end and leave the metal on the existing building alone. Appearently
Cleary doesn't want to do it cause they quoted over 13k which is crazy money!

That does sound crazy! I estimate to be at around $5k by the time I'm done with this 32x36 extension. All the metal was $2400 delivered, and the trusses about $900 delivered.

 

[pclausen]

Made some good progress this afternoon on the front side part of the roof.

2 10' sections of ridge installed.

Finally got my trailer covered!

 

[EddieWalker]

Very impressive!!!!

How are you going to deal with drainage and water run off?

As for the hole, do not use silicone. It will dry up and curl up on you when used on a metal roof. Buy flashing sealant designed for metal. I like Henry brand products from Home Depot, but have had good luck with most of them. The black tar products are at the bottom of my list of go to roofing sealants, but much better then silicone or caulking on metal.

Eddie

 

[pclausen]

Very impressive!!!!

Thanks!

How are you going to deal with drainage and water run off?

I installed a french drain all along the side and back of the building.

Mesh and drain pipes laid out:

Different angle:

Filter sock slipped on and pipes leveled:

Different angle:

Had the power company come out and mark the 400A service to the shop. Fortunately it was down a full 36"!

Working on the trench:

Pipes laid in clearing both the power and water lines, yet maintaining a drop:

Covered back up:

Drain outlet. I'll go back and throw some big rocks there.

As for the hole, do not use silicone. It will dry up and curl up on you when used on a metal roof. Buy flashing sealant designed for metal. I like Henry brand products from Home Depot, but have had good luck with most of them. The black tar products are at the bottom of my list of go to roofing sealants, but much better then silicone or caulking on metal.

Thanks Eddie. I'll drop by Home Depot at some point today to check it out.

 

[pclausen]

Buy flashing sealant designed for metal. I like Henry brand products from Home Depot

This stuff right?

Henry 900 Construction and Flashing Sealant 11 oz
Model # HE900204
Store SKU # 111806

 

[boggen]

just catching your thread for the first time....

i might dig some of the french drain up, and install some "cleanout" tees. and at very min. add a "vent" or 2, with pipe sticking up into the air. so as the french drain pipe fills up with water, air has a way to vent out of the pipe.

clean out tees and vent, plus figure in some settling and movement of pipe over years to come. and above would help reduce problems long terms if something does come up.

p.s. make sure you paint PVC pipe. that is out in direct sun. pvc pipe normally does not come UV rated. and as a result will become brittle, and can be easily broken. painting the pipe will keep the sun rays off the plastic, and keep the pipe going long term.

================
you might want to redig some of the trench, so gutters have some place to drain to. if you are not placing a gutter on back side of building. your french drain may get over ran, by amount of water coming from roof of shed, and the surrounding hills.

i would most likely go with some concrete block or treated 2x6's, 2x8's, 2x10's or like around shed that will be in contact with dirt. and most likely install a water membrane, you can buy epdm liner for flat top roofs fairly cheaply. and lay liner up against the block or treated lumber wall that will be touching dirt. and then back fill against it.

i am not a large fan of "tar" or paint on products for water proofing. at least not on walls that will be subject to "frost heave" and settling of the ground.

as far as concrete block or treated lumber around sides of building contacting dirt. and then transition to metal sheeting for sides. not a real big deal. many livestock sheds do this all the time. treated lumber on lower portion. so animal kicking and laying against walls does not tear out the metal. and then place metal sheeting higher up. were it will not get banged up against from the livestock.

==============
if you go with concrete block, it would be advised to place a footer down before building up the concrete block wall. Koiphen.com like TBN but for ponds. many folks there dry stack the concrete blocks, putting in rebar both horizontally and vertically. and then come back and fill every other cell or all cells with concrete. dry stacking blocks vs putting mortar between every block. *shrugs* i am not brick layer. and dry stacking and putting in rebar and then filling in cells sounds more easier for a newbie like myself.

 

[srs]

pclausen, first off excellent job on this addition, very impressive. I have a thought/suggestion regarding installing a retaining wall on the side and rear of the addition. Before I would install any siding I would remove 2 or maybe even 3 of the lower horizontal 2 x 4's and work on the retaining wall. That way you would have access to side and rear from inside the building and not have your back against the new finished metal siding if you had installed the siding first. You could freely work between the posts to bring in any retaining wall block with the tractor. Once the retaining wall is up a few layers you can also use the tractor to backfill from inside the building. When the retaining wall gets too high any backfill can be done from the top of the hill. When that is completed you can jump back to installing the metal siding. Just my 2 cents worth. Again, GREAT job!!!!!! Stanley

 

[pclausen]

Appreciate the advice! I actually do have a clean out at the high point (made with a pair of 45 elbows). I also used a pair of 45 elbows in the back corner to allow cleaning out the french drain down the road.

Will definitely consider adding air vents. Sounds like an excellent idea. I was not planning to add gutters to the extension. The main building does already have gutters. It will be relatively easy to add later on the back side.

I plan to pour a concrete pad which will bring the floor of the shop up above the surround level.

I just started putting the wall siding up today, but if I have issues with the dirt bank, I plan to cut out some of the dirt from above with my backhoe, very carefully.

The few down pours we have had so far the french drain took care off. But I'm sure once we get into the summer months, things will really be tested and I might have to improve on things.

My main concern is the front of the addition of how water will behave there. Will have to wait and see what happens I suppose.

Again, really appreciate the advice and will keep all of it in mind if things don't go as I hope and I need to built a retaining wall of sorts and improve on the drainage situation.

 

[Jd5203]

I got all the 24' panels mounted. Turns out nice I think.

I have started using the shelter already.

My helper did miss with one of the fasteners.

I'm wondering if the easiest fix would be to drive in another fastener at a slight angle to catch the 2x4 being that it barely missed?

Just cut a little 2x4 cut it about 8", then nail it to your rafters alongside of it, then use the existing hole and screw into the 2x4. I have done this many of times and it works great.

 

[EddieWalker]

This stuff right?

Henry 900 Construction and Flashing Sealant 11 oz
Model # HE900204
Store SKU # 111806

I think so. I never rememer exactly which one it is and I have to read all the labels to get the right one. It is extremly sticky and nasty to work with. I use WD40 to wash my hands after getting it on me. Nothing else seems to get it off!!!!

As for the french drain, I'm a little nervous about them as a primary drainage system. They are alright in wet areas, but lack long term reliability and are limited in how much water they can handle. A ditch is always my favorite drainage method. Hopefully you don't get too much runoff and the silt from the dirt doesn't fill in your rock. The sock is only as good as how clean the fill is around it.

Eddie

 

[pclausen]

I hear you Eddie. We'll see how it goes.

I got the sides up over the last few days and spent this evening trimming the gable end to match the roof line. This was probably the worst part the of the whole project, even with my "platform". I think I have to do it again, I'll cut the siding before mounting it.

 

[Dishpointer]

Looking great! Did you get it finished up last weekend?

 

[ustmd]

Lookss great.

What did you use to trim the metal siding?

 

[pclausen]

I ran out of green fasteners with 4 roof panels left to go... They just showed up today, so I should be able to finish up this weekend.

I used a abrasive 7" cutoff wheel on my circular saw for cutting. I used metal for small trim stuff.

EDIT: I have gone through about 5 of those cutoff wheels so far. Each one is down to about 4" diameter after cutting 30ft or so.

 

[Zebrafive]

I hear you Eddie. We'll see how it goes.

I got the sides up over the last few days and spent this evening trimming the gable end to match the roof line. This was probably the worst part the of the whole project, even with my "platform". I think I have to do it again, I'll cut the siding before mounting it.

Hindsight is 20/20. I cut my end panels first, but I had to. My barn has an overhang.

Did you run anything at the bottom of the panels? I could not tell from the pictures. I used what we call here "mouse guard"