Need help getting shear bolt out of driveshaft

[denverdave66]

I am new to all this tractor stuff but got a brand new John Deere 1026 with a LandPride RCR 1248 rotary cutter. I was mowing some small under brush today not more than 1/4" thick and I noticed something was wrong. I shut it down and there was a top half and bottom half of a bolt I found it is the shear bolt, which is used to pin the end of the drive shaft to the stub shaft at the front of the gearbox. The problem is part of the bolt is still in the driveshaft. Any tips on getting it out? If I could get it out think I could fix it.

 

[art]

In order to get the left over piece out you have to align the shafts the same as if you were putting the bolt in. When I have issues with thngs like this when I do get it fixed I take a colored paint pen and put a line across all the pieces to make it easier to align the next time.

 

[Bartcephus]

I usually drive them out with a punch and a ball peen hammer.

 

[GGB]

I usually drive them out with a punch and a ball peen hammer.

Ditto. That was my suggestion, which I also posted on your other thread.

You've got a nice setup. Good luck!

 

[pacerron]

I am new to all this tractor stuff but got a brand new John Deere 1026 with a LandPride RCR 1248 rotary cutter. I was mowing some small under brush today not more than 1/4" thick and I noticed something was wrong. I shut it down and there was a top half and bottom half of a bolt I found it is the shear bolt, which is used to pin the end of the drive shaft to the stub shaft at the front of the gearbox. The problem is part of the bolt is still in the driveshaft. Any tips on getting it out? If I could get it out think I could fix it.

It did what it is designed to do, save your gearbox.
Just turn the PTO shaft until the hole in it lines up with the broken bolt piece.
Then use a drift punch or a smaller bolt to drive out the broken piece.
Replace the bolt and nut with one of the same size and hardness grade.
Do not use a hard bolt or you will defeat the purpose and risk damaging the gearbox.
If the old bolt didn't have a Nylock nut on it you might consider getting replacement bolts long enough to have the thread come out just a little when the Nylock nut is tight. Buy a bag of bolts. This won't be your last time to need them

 

[denverdave66]

You guys are lifesavers! I used a punch and a hammer and it came out very easily. I think I might be smart enough to figure out how to put the new bolt in. I am not very mechanically inclined especially on stuff I have never used before. When I told the john deere salesman I didn't know a thing about tractors I wasn't lying. I see that small tool box on my 1026 is going to get full quick.

 

[denverdave66]

What I really like about this forum is I had a problem and within 30 minutes I had several replies on how to fix it. I hope someday I can give feedback on how to fix problems but right now I am just trying to learn.

 

[pacerron]

You guys are lifesavers! I used a punch and a hammer and it came out very easily. I think I might be smart enough to figure out how to put the new bolt in. I am not very mechanically inclined especially on stuff I have never used before. When I told the john deere salesman I didn't know a thing about tractors I wasn't lying. I see that small tool box on my 1026 is going to get full quick.

Be careful. Read all the safety labels stuck all over the equipment and understand what they mean.
Use the outer guard safety chains to secure the housing as shown in the instructions for PTO devices.
Some of the "good old boys" will say they don't bother but the bushings can get tight and the safety housing can harm you just like a bare PTO would.
Just don't go back there with the engine running to do anything if there is a PTO shaft attached or to be attached.
It's your hands and arms or worse at risk, not theirs.

 

[beckmurph]

Make sure you put the correct hardness bolt back in. Too hard of a bolt, and it might be your gear box the next time.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

What I really like about this forum is I had a problem and within 30 minutes I had several replies on how to fix it. I hope someday I can give feedback on how to fix problems but right now I am just trying to learn.

I have a LP mower also. Do you have the manual for it? I recommend you read it now instead of "after everything else fails". LP specs a Grade 3 boilt. They are a little cheaper at the HDW store than the LP branded item at the tractor store. They also warn not to go any harder than grade 5. There is all kinds of info about bolts on the net so you cam brush up on terminology and theory. There is a real learning curve if you are going to do your own work and have not workrd with mechanical stuff much. We do like to help you guys though so do not take ofense if we get gruff once in awhile as we are pretty steeped in this mechanic stuff.

Ron

 

[Shaefs]

This exact thing just happened to me. Is this common? Am I doing something wrong for this bolt to break?

 

[tow653]

The shear bolt is supposed to break in you put too much strain on drive train. It protects the more expensive parts,better to replace a $.89 bolt than a $400 gear box.

 

[boggen]

when the blades of the bush hog, hit something solid and hard. the blades can instantly stop. and all the power / shock can be transmitted back to the gear box and tractor. the shear pin, is there to let the PTO shaft "spin" and bust cut/shear the bolt. so the power / shock can NOT be transmitted back to the tractor. and to protect the gear box on the bush hog.

as others have said, get to strong of a "shear pin" and you damage the gear box on the bush hog, or really get into some expensive repairs on your tractor.

if you go with a weaker "shear pin" the pin will shear way to quickly every time you hit something, and you will have to replace them non stop.
if you are replacing the shear pins non stop. maybe you are trying to run over stuff that you shouldn't be running over. and the rotatory cutter just not meant to handle. or you are running the blades into the dirt, or into logs, or rocks or something.

the manual for the rotatory cutter / bush hog or other 3pt hitch implement you are using will state what size "grade" of bolt to use as a shear pin.

================
you can get "slip clutches" that can replace "shear pins" on some 3 pt implements. when slip clutches are properly adjusted, they can be a easy way to keep on going, without having to replace shear pins.

slip clutches when bought new, need to be "burned" errr allowed to slip. to remove the "new-ness off of them" so the operate properly.

 

[pacerron]

As boggen said, if you have a slip clutch, which is preferred for a bush hog type cutter it will slip instead of breaking the bolt.
PTO shafts with slip clutches are more expensive than bolt only, but very worth it if you are going to do any heavy cutting.
A caution, if you add a slip clutch, your present PTO shaft may have to be shortened.

 

[AHNC]

You guys are lifesavers! I used a punch and a hammer and it came out very easily. I think I might be smart enough to figure out how to put the new bolt in. I am not very mechanically inclined especially on stuff I have never used before. When I told the john deere salesman I didn't know a thing about tractors I wasn't lying. I see that small tool box on my 1026 is going to get full quick.

Well, Dave, you came to the right place if you are a rookie. I, compared to many here, am still a rookie a few years into it. When I first found this forum and was considering buying a tractor I lurked for quite a while and when it came time to register and post to ask questions I had to come up with a descriptive handle. Hence my AHNC name. All Hat No Cattle. Experience wise I'm still All Hat. The Cattle part may come, but it will take time and more patience from the guys here!:thumbsup:

Good luck with your rig!